# Woodworking Q: Do I need a router or will a Dremel routing bit work as well?

**URL:** <https://boards.straightdope.com/t/woodworking-q-do-i-need-a-router-or-will-a-dremel-routing-bit-work-as-well/560318>\
**Category:** In My Humble Opinion\
**Created:** [November 11, 2010, 4:17pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/woodworking-q-do-i-need-a-router-or-will-a-dremel-routing-bit-work-as-well/560318 "2010-11-11T16:17:24Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Page:** 2

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**Author:** ![Magiver](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/4491bb/32.png) [@Magiver](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Magiver)\
**Post date:** [November 14, 2010, 4:10pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/woodworking-q-do-i-need-a-router-or-will-a-dremel-routing-bit-work-as-well/560318/21 "2010-11-14T16:10:22Z")

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> [@Rocketeer](#):
>
> For that project you’ll need a proper router and a flush-trim bit. The bit has a little ball bearing that rides along the side of the workpiece to guide your cut. Without that type of bit, you haven’t got a chance of doing a neat job; you won’t be able to guide a Dremel straight enough by hand. And a Dremel doesn’t have the power to run a flush-trim router bit.
> 
> In the page you linked, Step 3 Photo 4 shows a flush-trim bit being used.

This.

Just build it without overhang. Seems like a strange design that requires routering off an edge. It makes it sound like they threw a bunch of raw lumber in a box and you’re suppose to make nice with it.

And FYI, if you don’t want saggy shelves then screw or glue strips of wood to the edges to create an I-beam effect.

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