# Workbench Finish suggestions. **URL:** \ **Category:** In My Humble Opinion\ **Created:** [November 23, 2015, 2:39pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/workbench-finish-suggestions/738357 "2015-11-23T14:39:53Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 8\ **Page:** 2
**Author:** ![wolfman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/w/a8b319/32.png) [@wolfman](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/wolfman)\ **Post date:** [November 25, 2015, 11:03pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/workbench-finish-suggestions/738357/21 "2015-11-25T23:03:35Z")
Thanks for the suggestions, and the video, that was helpful. It turned out to be a moot point. I was under the impression it would come unfinished, but when it showed up today it is already sealed with a hard finish(not sure exactly what yet). So I’ll be using that for a while at least, if something is not working about it (not sure exactly what that would be) I can always sand it down and try something else. ---
**Author:** ![bb49](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/b38774/32.png) [@bb49](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/bb49)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2015, 4:19am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/workbench-finish-suggestions/738357/22 "2015-11-27T04:19:33Z")
Wow, this thread came along at a convenient time. I just brought home a sheet of 5/8th inch Douglas fir plywood to re do the top of my bench. That’s my project for this weekend, putting on the appropriate finish. Btw, Douglas fir is far superior to a spruce or pine plywood in that it is much harder. The other two are pretty soft woods. ---
**Author:** ![Chefguy](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/chefguy/32/138_2.png) [@Chefguy](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Chefguy)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2015, 4:46am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/workbench-finish-suggestions/738357/23 "2015-11-27T04:46:35Z")
> [@bb49](#): > > Wow, this thread came along at a convenient time. I just brought home a sheet of 5/8th inch Douglas fir plywood to re do the top of my bench. That’s my project for this weekend, putting on the appropriate finish. > > Btw, Douglas fir is far superior to a spruce or pine plywood in that it is much harder. The other two are pretty soft woods. Soft wood isn’t a big problem for a temporary bench top. In fact, it may even be preferable, as it won’t dull your chisels as quickly. But it will get chewed up more easily. I figure at some point I’ll take a belt sander to mine, although I don’t mind the oil spots and such. My biggest problem is that my bench vise blocks don’t sit exactly level with the bench top. They’re off by about a 16th, which is enough to cause problems. ---
**Author:** ![Deereman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a3d4f5/32.png) [@Deereman](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Deereman)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2015, 5:12am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/workbench-finish-suggestions/738357/24 "2015-11-27T05:12:28Z")
My workbench was given to me, and it has about half of it covered with thick steel. Mine is for lots of mechanic style work, as well as metal work, welding, etc. But I couldn’t see having a bench without a truly durable surface for at least a portion of it. ---
**Author:** ![TheBori](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/ee7513/32.png) [@TheBori](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/TheBori)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2015, 5:22pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/workbench-finish-suggestions/738357/25 "2015-11-27T17:22:32Z")
I concur with many of the posters with regard to a sacrificial top. I cut a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 plywood in half. Glued up the 2 pieces (for a 1.5 inch 4’x4’ table) the screwed down a half sheet (again, cut a 4x8) fiber board for the top. It’s hard enough to pound on, etc, yet soft enough so as to not dent soft wood. Also, when I drill into it, intentionally or otherwise, the shavings are paper, not wood…again, soft. I flip then replace when the surface get too shot. ---
**Author:** ![TriPolar](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/tripolar/32/3008_2.png) [@TriPolar](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/TriPolar)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2015, 6:25pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/workbench-finish-suggestions/738357/26 "2015-11-27T18:25:27Z")
Agree with all those who say oil. A sacrificial top is not a bad idea either. A good workbench is made to take a beating, occasionally you’ll sand and/or plane the top, but a nice piece of plywood or MDF to take the beating instead will simplify all that. ---
**Author:** ![Chefguy](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/chefguy/32/138_2.png) [@Chefguy](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Chefguy)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2015, 10:17pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/workbench-finish-suggestions/738357/27 "2015-11-27T22:17:44Z")
As long as you put the sacrificial top on _before_ you mount your woodworking vice, it should be fine. ---
**Author:** ![bubba001](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/f17d59/32.png) [@bubba001](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/bubba001)\ **Post date:** [November 28, 2015, 12:28am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/workbench-finish-suggestions/738357/28 "2015-11-28T00:28:35Z")
I’ve got 3 of those, ordered from Grainger. I put a sacrificial top of 1/2 cheap plywood on top. Unless you are using it daily, you might never have to replace it. I don’t screw it down or fasten it. The back and sides contain the plywood, the open side is on the front, and I have never had to reposition it. [Previous page](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/workbench-finish-suggestions/738357.md?page=1)