As an amateur/hobbyist watch repairer myself, I can tell you that every watch is different, even if built “identically”.
As an aside, if you like the looks of a mechanical watch but want perfect accuracy you can get hybrid smartwatches.
Basically, they look like a mechanical watch but sync to your phone and usually have some “smartwatch” features.
I had one and it looked good and I never needed to change the time since it was always synched to my smartphone which kept it updated. Even when I flew it would update itself upon landing.
Gotta admit the “smartwatch” bits were underwhelming. They worked as advertised but, in reality, I almost never used them. Since the display was mechanical that limited what the smartwatch part could tell you by moving the hands. Of course, others may find it useful. YMMV.
Not terribly expensive as these things go though ($300 I think…give or take depending on the make/model).
I actually struggled a bit with what word to use there.
Let’s just say, the timepieces on display in those boutiques in Geneve do not have price tags attached to them.
The Piaget Altiplano Concept is probably my grail watch. They are custom built. About $400,000 last time I looked. The engineering is insane.
I believe the lowest-priced Rolex is the (non-chronograph) Air-King. When I was looking at watches the MSRP was something like $1,500 – a little over half the price of a GMT Master II with the regular bracelet. The one I was looking at had the Oyster bracelet, a blue dial, no numerals, no date, no bezel… like this one. It looks a lot like my/dad’s Seikos, but more plain.
I would never look down on anyone wearing an Air-King. I’d wear one if I had one, but MSRP now appears to be as high as $7,800 – Twice what I paid for the GMT II.
Probably too late to edit.
ISTM there are two reasons for someone to buy an Air-King: They want the status of wearing a Rolex but can’t afford a Submariner; or they really like and want the Air-King. I would look down on someone who bought it as a status symbol. Given that I’ve never seen an Air-King in the wild (everyone wears Subs or GMT IIs or one of the dressier watches), I’d applaud someone who got one because they really like the watch.
The old Air-King in nothing like the modern Air-King. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual (OP) is now the “entry level” Rolex and has taken over the vintage Air-King mantle (but Rolex issued the OPs in 2021 with new colors last year which were so popular that some variants are trading for >$18K on the grey market these days, more than a freaking submariner. Crazy town).
The modern Air-King is influenced by Rolex’s sponsorship of the Bloodhound land-speed project, and the watch dial looks like the instruments in the rocket car. It is essentially identical in build to the modern Milgauss (same double antimagnetic case), just with a different dial and different finish on the bracelet.
MSRP is somewhere between 6 and 7K (I forget exactly) but it’s trading above that on the secondary market (like all steel models) - if you want one it’ll cost around 9-10K these days.
I ran across this by happenstance.
For you Rolex fans here a guy on Antiques Roadshow is told his 1971 Rolex Oyster Cosmograph (what would become the Daytona basically) is worth quite a bit of money (original purchase price was $345). Worth more than I bet anyone would guess (mint condition w/paperwork).
Tl;Dw appraised value: The appraiser estimates it is worth $500,000 - 700,000.
The problem with such numbers is, of course, that they are little more than meaningless talk if you can’t actually find someone who will pay these amounts for the watch in question.
A curse on all of you for the talk of Grand Seikos. I just sold my motorcycle (I liked it, but just wasn’t riding much), and can just about swing a used Grand Seiko - the “Spring” models really intrigue me. In Titanium, of course (I have a Citizen titanium that is my everyday wearer; so so light).
The thread got me nostalgic so I rescued my Oyster Perpetual from the safe and I’m now wearing it just for fun. I bought it back in 2002-3, and yeah it is entry-level, but it was a big splurge for me at the time (and at today’s prices, would still be a splurge).
I got a good deal on a Tissot automatic earlier this year, and for the money I’m happy - but there’s no comparison to the Rolex. The Tissot is very heavy with a thick case (a plus for some, but not me), the manual winder is sometimes tricky, and the second hand doesn’t stop when you’re setting the time (which would be handy for synchronizing). And I’m not crazy about the butterfly clasp. But the face is nice and big and easy-to-read. I only mention it because, when I compare it to my entry level Rolex, they are in different classes.
Question: those that are familiar with the Grand Seiko Spring models, do they theoretically last “forever”? As I understand it, the winder/activity winds a spring, which itself oscillates a crystal, and said crystal is used for the timekeeping, giving both excellent accuracy (better than a mechanical alone) and with no batteries involved. Correct?
Their operation is very similar to a conventional mechanical watch. There is a going train of the same basic layout. You can get automatic or manual winding models. The mainspring is wound and drives the going train which drives the hands. It is regulated in a similar manner to a conventional watch. But the regulation mechanism replaces the usual escapement with a rotating disk. That disk simply spins smoothly rather than the stop start motion of an escapement. This is why the seconds hand on a Spring Drive has that uncanny glide motion. The magic is in how that disk is regulated. The spin of the disk both powers and is regulated in speed by an electro-magnetic brake system that senses the speed of the disk and uses the quartz crystal as a reference for applying just the right magnetic braking force. Accuracy is about the same as any good quality quartz watch.
So long as the watch is running the electronics are powered up and it regulates the speed of the watch.
Internally the watch is very similar to a conventional mechanical watch. It will last just as long. There is no battery, so nothing to die there, but like any mechanical watch, it will need the occasional service, with the expense that brings to ownership.
Spring drive really is an amazing bit of engineering/technology.
I know some watch enthusiasts think anything quartz is not worth considering but the spring drive is IMO.
AIUI Seiko has recently gained a surge in popularity. Probably because they make some really nice watches and, for a long time, were a relative bargain. Less of a bargain these days.
How it works:
Thanks, you two. The Spring drive really does sound like the best of both worlds.
I don’t wear any watch every day, and when I do wear a watch I’m usually cycling between 3-4. So, my mechanicals tend to “run out” by the time I get around to wearing them again, and they need to be tolerant of that wind-down/manual rewind cycle. The accuracy is less important to me (within reason), but I just think the Spring drive is cool-as-heck technology, assuming there is no down side.
This is an example of what I’d consider:
The Snowflake watch by Grand Seiko is perhaps their most popular model…widely considered the most beautiful watch face in their lineup (of course, that is subjective). I have seen it in person. It is pretty great. If you can find somewhere near you that has one it is worth a visit to try it on.
I have NO idea on what is a good price though. Can’t help you there.
I keep my watches on a watch winder similar to this one:
Spring Drive longevity is similar to any mechanical watch. If you take care of it and have it serviced when needed, it will last a lifetime. A drawback however is that a Spring Drive must be sent back to Seiko Japan for servicing ($$$), an independent watchmaker can’t service it.
That’s getting to be common with high-end watches. They have to be sent back to the manufacturer for service. Or the manufacturer may restrict sales of parts needed for repair.
That’s worse than iPhones. We’ve come full circle.
I found that out with my Dad’s old Breitling that I mentioned earlier. It just needs a new battery probably and it would cost me $200.