# Yosemite's El Capitan -  the first free climb of Dawn Wall

**URL:** <https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757>\
**Category:** Miscellaneous and Personal Stuff I Must Share\
**Created:** [January 13, 2015, 10:55pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757 "2015-01-13T22:55:22Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 20\
**Page:** 2

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**Author:** ![UncleRojelio](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/unclerojelio/32/3160_2.png) [@UncleRojelio](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/UncleRojelio)\
**Post date:** [January 14, 2015, 10:13pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/21 "2015-01-14T22:13:39Z")

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Where do they plug in their iPhone chargers?

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**Author:** ![Morgenstern](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/f9ae1b/32.png) [@Morgenstern](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Morgenstern)\
**Post date:** [January 14, 2015, 10:14pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/22 "2015-01-14T22:14:12Z")

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Wonder how many people will walk up the other side and meet them when they reach the top?

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**Author:** ![Telemark](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/telemark/32/372_2.png) [@Telemark](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Telemark)\
**Post date:** [January 14, 2015, 10:44pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/23 "2015-01-14T22:44:51Z")

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> [@aceplace57](#):
>
> Is it standard procedure to return by ropes to a base camp every night? Then get hauled back up the next morning?

Nothing about this climb is standard - this is pushing the limits. They’re following the rules of the climb - climb the entire route without using climbing aids for the ascent. Everything else is a matter of style. It’s not often done like this because it’s rarely needed.

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**Author:** ![Frank](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/3d9bf3/32.png) [@Frank](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Frank)\
**Post date:** [January 14, 2015, 11:25pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/24 "2015-01-14T23:25:42Z")

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> [@kayT](#):
>
> Really? Where? This is the first I’ve heard of it.

There have been at least two reports on the climb on the CBS Evening News. (I say, at least, because I don’t watch it every night.)

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**Author:** ![snowthx](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/snowthx/32/10660_2.png) [@snowthx](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/snowthx)\
**Post date:** [January 14, 2015, 11:39pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/25 "2015-01-14T23:39:41Z")

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> [@UncleRojelio](#):
>
> Where do they plug in their iPhone chargers?

Maybe they are using one of [these](http://www.amazon.com/Poweradd-Apollo-Constructed-Emergency-Charging/dp/B00DLUYSPO/ref=zg_bs_2407762011_1/184-2375152-6100528).

A buddy had one on a bicycle trip last year and it worked pretty good.

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**Author:** ![snowthx](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/snowthx/32/10660_2.png) [@snowthx](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/snowthx)\
**Post date:** [January 14, 2015, 11:49pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/26 "2015-01-14T23:49:20Z")

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> [@aceplace57](#):
>
> I wonder how the climbing community feels about this?

In general - I read some of the comments in the NatGeo article, and there seems to be a seam of discontent amongst some climbers. The two climbers do not seem to be attention seekers so much themselves, but the amount of publicity and now corporate-ness of the event seems to be turning some of the observing purists off. Evidently, the climb has been extensively planned, and prepared-for - both the athletes and the mountain itself.

While what they are doing is officially free-climbing each pitch of the wall consecutively, they appear not to be hauling everything with them each day, and are using technology to get them to where they left-off the day prior.

It does not really diminish their esteem in my book, but perhaps there are those that would rather they do it as a one-way trip without all the back and forth.

At the very least they are exposing a wide audience to their climb, and educating people about the sport. I, for one, have learned more about it due to the media exposure, and have an appreciation for what they are doing.

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**Author:** ![not\_what\_you\_d\_expect](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/not_what_you_d_expect/32/3246_2.png) [@not\_what\_you\_d\_expect](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/not_what_you_d_expect)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 12:05am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/27 "2015-01-15T00:05:05Z")

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I’m in awe, even if I have to admit, I don’t understand what draws someone to do this sort of thing.

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**Author:** ![aceplace57](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/aceplace57/32/3500_2.png) [@aceplace57](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/aceplace57)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 12:22am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/28 "2015-01-15T00:22:47Z")

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Its official. They made it.

Wheres the video of them pulling themselves up onto the top? Wouldn’t they have people up there to capture that moment?

> [@](#):
>
> Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson – using only their hands and feet, with ropes designed only to catch them when they fall – reached the summit Wednesday.

> **[Successful El Capitan climber: Find your own Dawn Wall | CNN](https://www.cnn.com/2015/01/14/travel/feat-yosemite-capitan-climb/index.html)**
>
> Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson are the first free climbers to reach the top of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park via its most difficult route.

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**Author:** ![aceplace57](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/aceplace57/32/3500_2.png) [@aceplace57](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/aceplace57)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 12:39am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/29 "2015-01-15T00:39:36Z")

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SDMB rules- photos or it didn’t happen. 😃

A photo of two hands gripping the edge and just a tuft of the climber’s hair visible would be cool.

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**Author:** ![snowthx](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/snowthx/32/10660_2.png) [@snowthx](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/snowthx)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 12:49am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/30 "2015-01-15T00:49:04Z")

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> [@aceplace57](#):
>
> SDMB rules- photos or it didn’t happen. 😃
> 
> A photo of two hands gripping the edge and just a tuft of the climber’s hair visible would be cool.

I am not sure it that is possible, as El Cap is really just a dome. As I recall, there is no cliff at the top for them to climb over - they just get to a part of the dome where the slope is lessened enuf to start walking without the ropes. I know, not very dramatic. We’ll see when the photos start coming thru.

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**Author:** ![Peremensoe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/ce7236/32.png) [@Peremensoe](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Peremensoe)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 1:28am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/31 "2015-01-15T01:28:06Z")

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> [@Eonwe](#):
>
> Meh. El Capitan Kirk [did it first](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL1WqN1XKK0).
> 
> 😛

First? Kirk will not be making his unsuccessful attempt for 272 years yet.

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**Author:** ![blondebear](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/blondebear/32/1022_2.png) [@blondebear](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/blondebear)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 2:08am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/32 "2015-01-15T02:08:33Z")

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> [@aceplace57](#):
>
> A photo of two hands gripping the edge and just a tuft of the climber’s hair visible would be cool.

Be careful though–the last person who posted pictures like that of Yosemite got banned I think.

> [@snowthx](#):
>
> I am not sure it that is possible, as El Cap is really just a dome. As I recall, there is no cliff at the top for them to climb over - they just get to a part of the dome where the slope is lessened enuf to start walking without the ropes.

I’ve hiked to El Cap from the campground at Tamarack Flat, and you’re right. When you reach the “back side” of El Capitan it’s kind of weird–there isn’t a cliff or sheer drop to look over…it just gets steeper and steeper until it’s too steep to walk anymore.

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**Author:** ![Xema](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/x/9de053/32.png) [@Xema](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Xema)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 3:08am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/33 "2015-01-15T03:08:55Z")

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> [@snowthx](#):
>
> It does not really diminish their esteem in my book, but perhaps there are those that would rather they do it as a one-way trip without all the back and forth.

I’m sure they would rather do it this way - definitely better style.

But this is an insanely difficult climb when done free. Many of the pitches have a rating in the 5.14 range, which equates to “marginally possible for the best rock climbers in the world, usually only after multiple attempts over a longish time”.

Anyone who can climb 60 ft at this grade is looked on as elite. To do it for 3000’ is well beyond what was thought possible. To put it in perspective, Tommy Caldwell has been an elite, world-class climber for a long time, and he has been working on this project for 7 years. I read somewhere (not sure it’s completely accurate) that he’s spent a total of around _600 days_ on that wall, working out all the moves. That’s what it took to make this happen.

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**Author:** ![Xema](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/x/9de053/32.png) [@Xema](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Xema)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 3:20am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/34 "2015-01-15T03:20:05Z")

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> [@aceplace57](#):
>
> SDMB rules- photos or it didn’t happen.

Here’s a link to a [website by Tom Evans](http://www.elcapreport.com/archive/201501), who has been posting about this climb daily. He hangs out in the meadow in the valley below El Capitan, taking pictures with a heavy-duty telephoto lens - very high quality.

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**Author:** ![ScrapStitching](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/d07c76/32.png) [@ScrapStitching](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/ScrapStitching)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 3:24am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/35 "2015-01-15T03:24:37Z")

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> [@DingoelGringo](#):
>
> But why???

Because it’s there, because they can, and so it will have been done.

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**Author:** ![Hilarity\_N.Suze](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/hilarity_n.suze/32/6223_2.png) [@Hilarity\_N.Suze](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Hilarity_N.Suze)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 3:46am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/36 "2015-01-15T03:46:36Z")

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> [@aceplace57](#):
>
> The National Geo article briefly explains climbing techniques. Free Solo is climbing without ropes. Free Climbing is with safety ropes.
> 
> They mention no major route on El Capitan has been done Free Solo. Too dangerous. Falls are too common. Jorgeson fell 11 times on just on tough section.
> 
> They are using a support team. They shine flood lights at night. Provide supplies. I guess that’s required on a tough climb like this.

I don’t know what constitutes a “major route” but some routes on El Capitan have been climbed free solo, including by Tommy Campbell (I think) but anyway for sure by a couple of other people.

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**Author:** ![aceplace57](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/aceplace57/32/3500_2.png) [@aceplace57](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/aceplace57)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 3:50am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/37 "2015-01-15T03:50:12Z")

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This shot gives a sense of scale.  
[![](http://www.elcapreport.com/sites/default/files/6%29%20%20ACIMG_2731.JPG) ](http://www.elcapreport.com/sites/default/files/6%29%20%20ACIMG_2731.JPG)

Is it wrong for me to LOL at the gaping object to the left of the guy in blue? 😉

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**Author:** ![levdrakon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/49beb7/32.png) [@levdrakon](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/levdrakon)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 3:53am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/38 "2015-01-15T03:53:22Z")

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I dunno. It’s like a video game with infinite do-overs. Sure it no doubt requires much skill and physical fitness, but it’s only a matter of time. Hey, I ran 50 miles! Well, a mile per day for a couple months, but it was 50 miles!

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**Author:** ![Xema](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/x/9de053/32.png) [@Xema](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Xema)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 4:39am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/39 "2015-01-15T04:39:08Z")

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> [@levdrakon](#):
>
> Hey, I ran 50 miles! Well, a mile per day for a couple months, but it was 50 miles!

For this analogy to work, you have to make each of those miles so desperately difficult that only a tiny handful of people in the world could do one of them.

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**Author:** ![Telemark](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/telemark/32/372_2.png) [@Telemark](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Telemark)\
**Post date:** [January 15, 2015, 4:42am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/yosemites-el-capitan-the-first-free-climb-of-dawn-wall/709757/40 "2015-01-15T04:42:30Z")

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> [@levdrakon](#):
>
> I dunno. It’s like a video game with infinite do-overs.

Except every try makes you weaker, more tired, and more beat up. To climb a single pitch is strenuous. To climb dozens of them, at the very limit of what humans can climb, and do it for several days with multiple failures at great person risk (climbers on rope still get hurt or killed) is an endurance event with the highest possible demands on your climbing skills.

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