Christmas on the Big Island (Hawaii)

In My Humble Opinion
1

OK so the planets were perfectly aligned, the stars shined and I lucked into a free condo on the big island for Christmas.
looks like there will be seven of us.
Rick and Mrs Rick
son of Rick (25)
Girlfriend of son of Rick
Daughter of Rick (19)
Boyfriend of daughter of Rick
Family friend of Rick.

I have never been to the big island (ditto for the rest of my family) and we want suggestions of what to do while we are there.
We will be staying in Waikoloa.
So Hawaii experts, tell us what we should not miss while we are there.

2

Well, it’s been ages since I’ve been there, buy my parents were just there a few months ago.

Don’t miss the Kiluea lava flows.

Kona is a nice place for shopping.

I got a letter from my aunt the other day, she lives on Oahu. She’s taking her class to the Big Island for a field trip and they plan on having a snowball fight on Mauna Kea. That might be a fun thing to do.

3

A snowball fight is really a crap shoot but the trip to the top of Mauna Kea is a definate must. It’s the tallest mountain on earth from base to summit. Check out the mighty Keck. Try and see Haleakala from there. If there is snow be very careful if you try sledding. There are a lot of sharp lava rocks around and people have died crashing into them.

Since you’re on the west side of the island you should know that it is a long drive over the mountain to Hilo and stuff like that. And you definately don’t want to do that too often. But you do have to check out Volcano National Park and hike in Thurston’s Lava Tube.

On the west side you’ll be able to visit the coffee plantation. Don’t know how fun or interesting that is but Hawaii’s the only state to grow coffee.

I grew up there but haven’t been back since 91 so I’m hopelessly out of the loop. Plus I grew up in Glenwood and Hilo so all I know is that area. That and watch out if the white sand beaches are pipeing hot. My friend slowly cooked the bottom of his feet walking on it over the course of a few hours.

4

In my somewhat limited experience (3 trips), the Big Island is the best. Things I found good (in no particular order) include:

  • Waipio Valley
  • Pulolu Beach
  • Saddle road
  • Mauna Kea summit
  • South Point (good spot for whalewatching)
  • Many waterfalls
  • Kilauea Park (all of it, and especially the Chain of Craters road at night when lava is flowing)
  • Snorkeling near the Capt. Cook memorial in Kealakekua Bay
    Some notes:

The best guidebook I found is Hawaii - The Big Island Revealed - Way ahead of the others and worth many times its price.

Hawaii is the one island on which 4WD can be of some real use. Notably, you’ll need the lowest possible gear to descend the improbable road into Waipio Valley (well worthwhile).

The Saddle road is very scenic - and sort of extraterrestrial. More than a few car rental companies place it Off Limits, which is utter nonsense. It’s a good to excellent road all the way - the worst you can say is that it’s narrow in a few areas and it’s not wise to drive it at night (black road bordered by black lava).

Likewise, some people will imply that the drive up Mauna Kea is very tough, perhaps for 4WD only. But almost any 2WD vehicle with a halfway sensible driver could do it.

A really nice hike of a couple of hours runs from near Waimea (not so far from where you’ll be staying) along the back of the Wapio valley. Be sure to take the short “jungly” side trail to the top of a 1000’ waterfall.
But the hike that eclipses them all is the one to the Pu’u O’o volcano vent. The guidebook will tell you how to find the trail - it’s fully legal to walk it, but it’s deliberately kept obscure. The hike is about 3 hours each way, and it’s rather rough - just how rough will depend on recent rainfall. Be prepared for some very muddy footing - walking sticks almost mandatory.

The first 2+ hours are through a rainforest, which begins to get stunted as you get near to the vent. You break out of the forest onto a huge lava field - the smoking hill about half a mile away is where all the lava currently comes from. If you’re sensible and cautious, you’ll quit here. And miss the experience of a lifetime.

If you decide to press on, the trail up the cone lies a bit left of the straight line from you to the smoke. As you set out, look back so you can recognize the point to which you’ll return. The trail is somewhat casually marked, though not desperately difficult to find. The hiking can be rough, especially if you get off the trail, and falls could be a real problem (lava is much like glass). In 30-40 minutes, you’ll be approaching the rim: take care - the lip is crumbly, and you’ve long left guard rails and other tourist protections behind.

The crater is about 400 yds across and perhaps 300’ deep. Its moods vary, though there is almost always a lot of smoke roaring out. The lava display varies a lot: in three visits, I’ve seen it rather quiet, and dramatic: lava fountains 80’ high on a 12-minute cycle. You’ll very likely have the place to yourself, except for a regular procession of helicopters full of folks who paid $175 for a minute’s look.

This is a hike like you’ve never done before. It would be misleading to say it’s dangerous - it’s damned dangerous. Anyone who isn’t reasonably fit and compentent in difficult circumstances shouldn’t go. Those who do will be talking about it for years afterward.

A final important point. The smoke and fumes are toxic and nasty. You must have a tradewind (northeast wind) day for this hike (fortunately, that’s the most common weather). Don’t even consider being on the lava if the wind is between east and southwest.

5

I agree with just about everything Xema says. I’ve been twice, both times in early January. (Last time was this year.) A couple extra comments:

Big Island Revealed Gotta have it.

Vent Trail Did it last month. As it had been raining solidly for a week, it was a challenge, but a wonderful experience. If it’s wet, just accept the fact that your feet will get soaked, even with waterproof hiking boots. I was more cautious than Xema, though, when I got to the top. People die fairly regularly on the lava fields, although I’m not aware of any deaths at exactly that point. Also, the books aren’t kidding when they say to start no later than 10. You’ll find that difficult, as you’re based on the other side of the island. You might want to consider spending one night near there, maybe at Volcano House. That’ll allow you to check out the park one day and do the vent hike on the other. Bring plenty of food and water.

Cook Monument Best way to get there is by kayak. You’ve got a good chance of seeing spinner dolphins, and the snorkelling is fine. Try to do this on a calm day, though. Launching a canoe is difficult when the surf is high at the launching place. You can mess yourself up on the rocks.

Costco If you’re not a Costco member, become one before you go. Prices are sky high in Hawai’i, but Costco remains reasonable. I made Costco stops more than once on both my trips to the Big Island, even though I didn’t stay in a condo, and therefore ate most of my meals out. (This advice applies to Oahu travel as well. Not sure if there are Costcos on the other islands.) There’s one near both Big Island airports. Some suggestions for purchases: Cooler. Hiking gear. Snorkelling gear. Sandwich makings and other food. Mixers for rum drinks and other beverages. (You’ll need to buy the rum elsewhere.) Ice. Paper plates/cups. Bamboo beach mats. Coffee, both to drink there and to bring back. Kona is way cheaper here than any other place. (In case you don’t know, there are two things grown on the Big Island that are the best of their kind in the world. One is Kona coffee.) Film. Flashlights. Batteries. (You’ll need these if you do any hiking near the lava fields, either at dusk, of it you check out any of the lava tubes.)

(The cooler’ll be $10. If any of you drink, you’ll save 10 times that price. You can either toss it, or use it as an extra piece of checked luggage on the way back. Fill it with your hiking/water gear, buy some matching color duct tape, seal it up, check it. Keep the tape handy in case it’s searched at the airport.)

Kona Airport The most screwed-up layout/boarding system I’ve ever seen. If you check luggage, expect a minimum of 4 lines. Allow 2-2.5 hours. (This isn’t necessary at other airports, at least not for inter-island travel. An hour is normally plenty. I’ve flown out of Kona twice, and both times it was a nightmare.)

Hapuna Beach Do it. Spend the day with your cooler, your beach mats.

Waikaloa Village The town, not the resort. Grocery stores nearest your
condo.

Waimaia One great restaurant, but I can’t remember the name. Probably one of the nicer ones in town and it is known for using local ingredients.

New Year’s Eve If you’re still there, expect fireworks. (although I was actually on Oahu on the 3 occasions that I was in the state on 12/31, so my experience might be skewed.)

It’s a great place. Hope you enjoy the trip.

6

Corrections: 1) "**or if **you check out any of the lava tubes.

                   2)   on reflection, what I remembered as the Hilo side Costco might have been a Walmart.  Not quite as good, but still a cheap place to get basics.  Use the savings to check out some of the great restaurants.  (Definitely Costco was on Kona side and in Honolulu, though.)
7

::: scribbling notes:::
Damn you guys are getting me all excited already, and I have 10 months to wait.
Xema Wow! I gotta do that hike. I don’t know if the others will go with me, but I am so there. Thanks for the tip. Random The vent trail also sounds like a winner.
Great suggestions, about Costco, I know there is one somewhere nearby, I will find it.
For a cooler, what do you think of the colapsible ones? Or should I spring for a rigid sided one?

Keep these ideas coming, folks!

8

Christmas in Hawaii should be a great experience
Ive never been there, but I’ve heard that instead of having “Santa Claus” out there, they have someone called “Hula Claus” instead…Is this true :smiley:

9

I wouldn’t recommend going alone. My experience says the trail isn’t used that much - even a small problem could become a big one if there’s no one to help.

And you’ll certainly want an early start. Try to be on the trail before 9am. That means pre-dawn reville at Waikoloa.

I think he’s talking about the same hike - on a trail to the Pu’u O’o volcano vent.
Random’s Waimea restaurant may be Daniel Thiebaut. Quite nice, but not cheap. This seems to be the normal case on all islands - most restaurants are expensive (easy to spend $70/person for dinner - or more, if you wish), and some of them are worth the price. If your budget doesn’t run toward $100/person/day for food, then what you want is a place where you can cook some of your own meals (and access to Costco). The guidebook will help you search out the relatively few places that are toward the cheaper end of the price scale.

10

Correct on all counts. (and bring food, water and a plastic disposable $1.00 raincoat. You’ll also be thankful for a towel and change of clothes in your car.)

If you want to do a solo hike, try the Waipio valley. The main decent is paved, and reasonably populated. The return trip up is so steep that you’ll know you’ve been on a hike, though. Unbelievable waterfalls, too. (In fairness, I did two solo hikes in the back areas of Oahu on my trip last year that were wonderful. [Odds are, no one would have done those trails after me for weeks.] Stupid to do solo, but wonderful.)

If you go the solo route, make SURE you go early (you don’t want to be the last one on the trail), bring a flashlight, something warm, and a cheap lightweight plastic tarp.) As is probably already clear, a backback is nice to have along. I also bring my cell phone, but IIRC, it didn’t have any reception on the vent hike. Also, make sure someone knows where you went, and when you are expected back.

If people in your group want a less challenging hike, there are 5-6 in the National Park that are great near Kiluaia Crater.

Checked my credit card statement. The restaurant is Merriman’s. Only place I got good tomatoes in Hawai’i.
One thing I would recommend passing on is a luau. My girlfriend wanted to do one, and I know people who live in Hawai’i who steered me to a good one, but it still was cheesy and touristy. Save your $$ and have a good meal. (Another good place for that is the Hilton Waikaloa Village. It’s Japanese restaurant was fantastic. (and the Japanese tourists who flock there provide a free floor show. Not as good as when the adult women all wore Hello Kitty attire, but still fun.)

11

Its, its, its. Damn.

12

and descent. Time to get some sleep.

13

While I would do the hike alone if necessary, the lady that is going with us is in, and it looks like my son is also going for it.
From some of my mountain biking excursions I know about being in the middle of nowhere. We will all have backpacks/camelbacks, we plan on food, first aid, and all the other little things that might become necessary. (Murphy’s law of the backcountry: If you are prepared for a particular problem, that problem will not occur.)

The early start is no problem we are all early risers. (I leave for work at 5AM here at home)

About an hour after I posted, I realized that you and Random were talking about the same hike. DOH!

As far as eating goes, the condo has a full kitchen, and I love to cook. My friend has the location of the Costco dialed in. We will probably eat out for one or two fancy dinners. Merriman’s or Daniel Thiebaut sounds good. Can anyone recommend a casual seafood type place? (Or does this type of thing not exist?)

14

It’s doable, but you might have to drive a bit. The North Kona/Waikaloa/Kohala area is High End Resort Central. The only casual/inexpensive places I remember seeing there were in Waikaloa Village (The town, not the resort), and those were fast food types. There’s probably places that would fit your needs in Kona (the town) which is a bit south of you. I ate at one place there for lunch and had an okay tuna steak sandwich, but I bet you could do better.

(Sorry I can’t be more help - The way I worked our trip last month was first half casual and fairly inexpensive / second half more high end. The first half was in Oahu with friends and then 2 nights at Volcano House, and we finished at a Kohala resort and spent the bulk of our budget. So I could give you tips on inexpensive places in Honolulu, or in Hilo, but not near Waikaloa Village.)

There is a good section on restaurants in the guidebook that both Xema and I suggested, so I’d start there. And it sounds like you are on the right track with your cooking plans. I would stock up bigtime at the Kona Costco, buying for the whole week on your first day, and then get whatever else you need at the nearby Waikaloa food store (It’s kind of a small supermarket) during the week. I can’t emphasize enough the price difference, though. Even if it means buying the Vat Size of mayonaise (or whatever) at Costco and leaving most of it behind, you’ll still be saving $$$. Will you have access to a grill when you are there?

You’ll have laundry facilities, right? If so, I’m envious.

15

yep the place has gas grills, and a laundry.
[b[Random** you and Xema have been a fountain of information.
Thank you so much.
If anyone else has suggestions feel free to chip in.

16

Good. (The truth is that if I were there and couldn’t find anyone to go along, I’d probably go solo.)

It seems clear that you have the right skills and attitude for this. Make sure the others understand that this can be a tough hike.

If the lava display is indifferent, this will simply be an excellent adventure. If it’s great, you’ll remember it all your life.