huh. that’s interesting about saddle road. the rental company didn’t say boo to us about it and the dive master has been to hawai’i about a dozen times in his life. and we were just there in october of 2005.
the arizona memorial and the mighty mo are awesomely worth the trip. drop a little extra cash and get a private tour aboard the mo. if you’reanything like the history/ww2 nuts we are, it was money well spent.
if you haven’t done so yet, go visit the national memorial cemetery of the pacific (both parents of the dive master are buried there). we didn’t get to the palace, unfortunately. maybe next time.
some of my pictures will follow at the bottom of my post.
about volcanoes national park. the day trip is neat but, the night time is even better. that said, however, there are genuine risks at night. if you’re planning to be marathoners like we were, there are things you should know.
after, i think it’s 10 at night? (maybe even earlier. i don’t recall now), there are NO more guides available on the lava fields. you are on your own and there are plenty of signs warning you well in advance of this.
that doesn’t stop anyone from going out on the lava fields of course. the dive master and i encountered two groups: a lone german tourist and a japanese tour at 4 in the morning and saw other flashlights from time to time.
there are no lights other than what you bring, no water, no public sanitation after the starting-off point and no telephones. it is truly the dark side of the moon in all ways, shapes and imaginings, and because of that you will be privy to the most magnificent starfield (no light pollution) you will ever see in your lifetime - other than being in outer space. absolutely stunning.
it might be wise to invest in a pair of hiking boots if you’re planning to do a marathon like we did. if you wear tennis shoes they will be ruined. i trashed a fairly-recent pair of new balances because of the lava. it cut the soles to ribbons.
it’s true people have died out there, others have gotten lost or disoriented or too tired to go further and have had to wait for daylight. the actual trek to kilauea is deceptive, especially at night. it’s much further than even we thought and we were prepared in advance. we were on the lava field for more than eight hours. yes, more than eight hours. 
GPS is an excellent idea, which the dive master did bring, altho he has a superb sense of direction (i have none) anyway.
the terrain is rough. did i mention the terrain is rough?
it’s almost all up and down over lava flows. hard on the knees. take a windbreaker or light jacket. despite the fact its hawai’i, you’ll want the covering. take more water than you think you’re going to need - and then take more. take good flashlights with fresh batteries. we used our dive lights, which are unusually bright since they’re designed to be under water and were glad we had them.
if you go out far enough, you’ll find signs that say ‘proceed at your own risk.’ after that point, which is roped off, you run the risk of open vents, fresh lava and steam. we finally quit a mile or so from the main eruption site to take pix and recoup. we got back to our hotel room in kaikua-kona around 7 am.
oh, and one more thing. do not under any circumstances, take any of Pele’s children (lava souveniers) at any time or in any place. bad luck will follow you if you do.
the goddess will not be happy with you.
here’s some pix of my hawaii trip. and don’t forget the mai tai in front of diamond head. 
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/hctg2000/album/576460762324109180