We just got back from one tonight, it’s a regular outing in our family.
Tonight we went to an onsen (hot spring) about 45 minutes from our town in the foothills of the mountains. We paid about $6 each. I am a bit lonely these days as I only have sons, and now the youngest one won’t come into the ladies side with me, despite it being OK to about 8 years old (though I don’t like such big boys being in there as there are some who are too into tits and bums by that stage…) So boys, hub and grandfather hopped off to the mens’ side and I went in by my own for some quality alone time.
There is a strict ettiquette about not staring and on the whole people do keep to it. Actually my mother in law even though she is Japanese is one of the worst for staring and then, Oh horrors, POINTING. Luckily (sorry MIL) she has just had back surgery and is not up to such outings for a few weeks.
As has been pointed out you must wash thoroughly before getting into the water - the places we go almost all have shampoo and soap provided. Today’s place had six or so inside baths including one that has black-coffee coloured water which is smooth and almost soapy feeling - it leaves the skin feeling so soft and soothed. (That is natural to our area.) There was also a jacuzzi and a similar kind of thing but was shallow and long with a “pillow” made of a wide steel tube with cold water running through it. You lie down in the bath and jets massage your shoulders as your head is cool and your body half boiled. Lovely. There was also a very cold plunge pool, a sauna and two all-around showers that squirt you at four levels all around when you get in. The best of all about that place though is the rotemburo - the outside bath. There are two, one is a huge boulder-lined pool big enough for 15 people easily, looking up a wide rolling lawn that leads into the forest. Then up the hill a few yards is a wooden roofed pavilion with a scented herb bath. Tonight it was snowing and it is a lovely feeling to sit in hot, hot water, with cold snowflakes falling on your face and shoulders. The snowflakes feel sort of hot and pinchy as they land on you! It is very goosepimply rushing from the hot indoor baths to the outdoor hot water, but lovely when you get in. And on the way back you are so cooked that you can amble back indoors with no sense of hurry even in minus temperatures.
Everyone has a bath towel which is left in the changing room. If the room has baskets rather than lockers you unfold the bath towel and lay it over all your clothes. Then you have a small towel which is about a foot wide and about two and a half feet long, which women will drape over a forearm and hold dangling over their breasts and privates. Of course it isn’t that covering but as I said before, most people aren’t looking. I have also done the mixed bathing thing and the men tend to fold the towel in half and do what I call “The Genital Clutch” wheere they hold the towel over their hand and then just sort of bunch up the jewels into it as they walk around.
When the kids were younger I loved doing the mixed bathing thing as it is so much better to have two adults to two toddlers when there is deep water about. The two onsens we went most often to were far into the mountains with only very simple wooden huts for changing in. In one place the women’s hut allowed you to get into the water which was completely opaque white behind a screen. You then bobbed down and scuttled out with only shoulders showing. Then men just stepped down into the water so that as they went by their nuts were at nose-level… The other onsen there was no screen at all so there was about a three yard dash but then the water was a bright rust orange, so again once under that nothing showed anyway.
It is a really nice thing to do with friends or family. I have climbed a hot waterfall in the middle of nowhere with a bunch of male coworkers and then upon finding a pool in the middle of the waterfall, but not having known about it, we all stripped to underwear and got in. Of course we were only wearing pants and top wear anyway as the waterfall was about 8 inches deep and the resulting backsplash as we walked through it had rendered wearing our only trousers we had with us a stupid thing to do, so we’d left them all in a bundle at the bottom of the hill. Nobody felt it at all odd and nobody ever commented about the nudity again. The actual hike and the waterfall were discussed on many occasions.
Japanese people are very unbothered by nudity. Bathtime nuditiy and sexiness somehow are different sides of a line that I think westerners don’t draw.