I have a lincoln town car and it doesn’t get very good winter traction.
I could add a few hundred pounds of salt to the trunk since it is rear wheel drive. That may help.
But aside from that what else can I do? Snow tires are expensive and they damage the road. Snow chains damage the road. Is there anything else I can do?
Are there affordable snow chains or chain like devices that are street legal and do not damage the road?
Besides adding weight to the drive wheels and starting in 2nd gear instead of 1st (consult your owners manual to do this with a auto/trans), and buying/making a small traction surface to put under the wheels to help you get unstuck, really not much more you can do for cheap.
Perhaps you could adjust the air pressure, I would WAG higher would allow you to punch through the snow better, though low pressure would give a larger gripping footprint, so I don’t know how well either would work.
Tire chains would be the biggest bang for your traction dollars, snow tires perhaps your most expensive but would be always there. You could also just go with narrower tires as that would punch through the top layer of snow better.
Snow tires damage the road? Say what?
studded snow tires can do that. The non-studded winter tires out there (Blizzaks and the like) won’t damage pavement, and work very well.
The OP didn’t say anything about studded snow tires. Seeing as normal snow tires are pretty much required here in Ontario (and in Quebec are required, by law), I was a little surprised to read that.
Where (part of country) are you? As jz78817 said, get regular winter tires. They have come a long way from 20 years ago.
Buy a front wheel drive beater if you are in snow country and put good tires on it - leave the town car in the garage.
Accelerate slowly, leave double the room to brake and slow down. Time traffic lights so you don’t have to stop - lots of coasting. Keep momentum, easy on both brake and gas pedals. Allow more time for a trip. It’s faster to go slowly than have to wait for a tow truck or a push from a snowbank because you WERE in a hurry.
This stopped me short as well.
I have Blizzaks. They’re great. A little pricey so they may not qualify for not spending a fortune, but damage the road? Bizarre.
There are a lot of options for snow, but ice limits you to things that can a) dig into the ice and b) stand up to being repeatedly pounded into the asphalt. The problem here is that anything that can do ‘a’ is likely to do damage to the road surface and anything that wouldn’t either won’t dig in or won’t last very long for during those periods when, necessarily, you will be driving on bare asphalt.
I would imagine that, just to speculate, that something like copper alloy studs might work and be resilient enough without doing too much road surface damage since it is a soft metal. But even if it did work, I can’t see it having a very long life on bare road.
Blizzaks are good although I prefer Nokian snow tires. Studded snow tires are 200% better than either if your municipality allows them. The thing to remember about snow tires is that narrow is better. One should try to get snows that are the same diameter but two inches smaller in width. Consult your tire dealer as some tires may not be able to handle the weight, especially with bags of sand in the trunk.
You’ll want to increase air pressure. Five pounds over normal is good. Make sure that you do not exceed the maximum pressure printed on the sidewall. Lowering the pressure will not provide more traction and an under-inflated tire will come apart when you start spinning the wheels. Spinning tires also increase air pressure so don’t go too high or the tire will pop off the rim.
Salt causes corrosion, sand does not. The bags will become compromised thrashing about back there and it’s preferable that the contents are non-corrosive.
Carry a snow shovel. Town Cars have room for a full-size one.
I’ve never subscribed to the sand in trunk brigade. I wasn’t a physics major but it never seemed like a good idea to add extra weight to the back of a car that was already trying to swap ends whenever I braked. From what I’ve read, cars with lots of suspension travel do better in snow than stiffly sprung sports cars (or overloaded land yachts).
I haven’t driven rear wheel drive in many years, so I can’t comment. The last car I had that was RWD was a 66 Chevy and I don’ think having an elephant in the back seat would have helped with the traction in snow.
I’ve pretty much always driven FWD and I have to say that snow traction is impressive IMHO, non-mechanical opinion. If there’s less than a couple of inches of snow, I don’t even both shoveling/snow blowing my 80ft driveway except for the Hoover dam size mound left by the plows at the end. Oh and the part around the mail box for my bitchy mailman. I can power right through the whole length. Once I’ve laid down some tracks, I’m good to go until it starts to melt.
Weight in the rear of the car helps. But it helps a lot more if you have snow tires.
yes, but once upon a time, snow tires pretty much meant “studded.” I remember my mother having studded tires on the rear of her Duster.
now, with the advances in tread design and rubber compounds, studs usually aren’t seen except for vehicles which may encounter a lot of ice.
Snow tires may be a bit pricey, but they last a long time - I’ve had the same set on my Explorer for 5 or 6 years now. Put 'em on in Oct/Nov, take 'em off in the spring.
Now, the beast doesn’t get a lot of miles (it’s the kid back-and-forth to school vehicle), but even if it were my ever day vehicle, they’d last two or three seasons, I’d think.
I don’t know a lot about this subject, in my mind snow tires is synonymous with studded snow tires. I wasn’t thinking about non-studded snow tires.
I am considering selling the car, and the current tires still have a lot of tread. So I don’t know if it is worth it to buy an extra set of Blizzaks, but I’m looking into them.
Do the non-studded snow tires need to be put on during winter season and taken off during the rest of the year, or are they all season? I’m guessing by Folacin’s comment they are seasonal.
Decent ones aren’t cheap - except in comparison to the cost of getting stuck or skidding off the road.
Studded tires are meaningfully better on ice, but have enough drawbacks to make regular snow tires the best solution for most winter driving.
I’ve found it best to mount them on cheap steel wheels (I’ve seen these for $10 a pop at a junkyard). That way, changing to or from snows is an easy do-it-yourself job (or a 10-minute operation at your local garage).
They can be used all year, but they will wear much faster in warm weather so all recommendations are to use them only during your local snow season.
Use the sand (or kitty litter) to form a path for the tire, to get out of an icy rut.
~VOW
Up until about two years ago I was driving a Grand Marque. I had little or no difficulty driving in the snows of Western New York.
My advice? Carry a bucket of sand in the trunk, not for weight but traction for when and if you’re on ice. Other than that drive slow, and cautious. Be ready for the unexpected and be patient with other drivers. And to hell with those who are not patient with you. The best winter driving advice is not so much the car or equipment but how you drive it.
I haven’t driven on snow for 25 years, but…
I remember buying plastic snow chains. They worked very well on snow— but were pretty unpleasant (and even dangerous) on asphalt.