Doperfolk, I am overjoyed! Out of nowhere (and on very short notice), I’ve gotten the opportunity to take a holiday to NYC over Labor Day weekend. Only thing is, this has left me with an extremely short amount of time with which to make plans.
Now, I do want to do the typical touristy things, but I also want to do something out of the common. So tell me: do you know a little hole-in-the-wall that serves divine Lithuanian cuisine? A museum that has preserved in glass cases all the murderers executed in NYC between 1800-1850? A botanical garden that houses only giant South American flowers?
In other words, I’d really like to do something out of the ordinary that’s not too touristy. Any suggestions?
Also: I’ve never been to NYC before, so I’m naturally very anxious about safety. I know all the basics: walk briskly and look like you know where you’re going, keep a firm hand on your belongings, don’t stand around on the streetcorners staring at maps. They say it’s a bad idea to be out after dark and that if you absolutely must be, take a taxi. Would you find that to be true? Also, would it be useful to make a dummy wallet with a few small bills in case of mugging and keep all valuables in an inside pocket, or is that just rank paranoia? Anything else that would be useful to know?
And can you give any advice to a total n00b about navigating the subways? I gather that it would be a useful idea to know the precise address of places I’d like to be going, but beyond that I’m pretty apprehensive.
Any help you have to offer would be much appreciated!
When you purchase your first subway fare, ask the attendent for a subway map. These are very easy to follow. I don’t really do much in Manhattan any more, besides eat at restaurants and drink at bars. You could hit some golf balls at Chelsea Piers. That’s not THAT touristy. I’m sure that some of the others will be able to come up with some good ideas for you.
Mer, I like the big museums – Natural History, the Met, Central Park Zoo. Unfortunatekly, I haven’t gotten into the city as much in recent years as I used to, and a lot of little museums and shops keep closing.
There used to be a wonderful music box shop just off Fifth Avenue near the FRick Collection, run by an ancient woman. She’s probably died by now, and I can’t find a listing for the store. But if it’s still there, that’s a wonderful offbeat thing to see.
The freak show at Coney Island is one of the few remaining in the country. Few tourists make it out there (paranoid about safety), but it’s not all that bad. They also have good priced amusement rides.
About safety in NYC – it sounds like you’re a little paranoid. I’ve been up there quite a few times and have never felt unsafe. Wondering around after dark isn’t unsafe if you’re in most parts of Manhattan. The dummy wallet idea sounds a little strange. I don’t think you need to go to those lengths. The unsafe areas of NYC are generally the areas you won’t be going into. Times Square and other heavily traveled areas are pretty safe. If you are in an area and you notice a lot of burned out cars, abandoned buildings, and graffiti, then you may want to worry about your safety. I doubt you’ll be heading to those parts of town, though.
The new MoMA is great. NYC is safe after dark as well as the day. Your safety ideas are a bit over the top.
The NYC Transit Museum is pretty cool. The Brooklyn Museum and Botanical Gardens are not something too many tourists do. I know there is a bookstore that just sells murder mysteries. (Not sure of the location) Some of the little 7-11 type stores that you see have store cats. Cats that just live there in the store. Look for those. There is a Museum of Sex and there is a place out in Queens that has a scale model of the city. I keep meaning to go there but haven’t yet.
I also think you’re far too worried about your safety. I mean, I’d skip the walking tour of the South Bronx, but outside of that you’ll be just fine.
As far as esoteric things to do, I don’t know. Eat a meal in Chinatown, for certain – look for the smaller places with the waiting lines.
Take in a batshit-crazy anti-war protest at Union Square (and I say this as an anti-war fellow).
Ride the subways everywhere – it’s the cheapest, quickest way to get around, and you’ll increase your chances of running into memorable characters (it’s also quite safe, if you’re worried about that).
There are plenty of small-mid size concert halls in New York – check their schedules ahead of time and see if any of your favorite bands are playing.
Touristy thing you should see: The Met is incredible, and huge.
Touristy thing you should avoid: The Statue of Liberty. Sucks up a whole day, and not much fun at all. Also crowded. You’d be better off taking a walk along the south shore of Manhattan, or going on a Circle Line boat tour around the island.
Judging by the amount of content here, I’d say the man who runs this is a New Yorker who has been re-incarnated and has lived his series of successive lives in NYC. At any rate, he seems to know enough about the city to fill an encyclopedia.
While you’re uptown, definitely see St. John the Divine and Riverside Church. Ask if the carillon at Riverside is open to walk through –the sheer size of the bells in there will blow your mind! If not, admire the glorious stained glass, and see if you can find Einstein.
Go to Peanut Butter & Co.- they make all sorts of peanut butter sandwiches, and they make a nice grilled cheese if peanut butter isn’t your style.
Shop in SoHo- the area above canal between broadway and west broadway are full of stores ranging from tiny vintage stores to designer names. Definately check out Yellow Rat Bastard, Hotel Venus, and the Flying A store. Also walk along Canal st., where you can find every imaginable type of kitschy tourist merchandise.
Pick up a free newspaper and check out whats going on that day. Metro, AM New York, and the Village Voice are all pretty easy to find, and if you’re in the Village/SoHo/Tribeca area you may luck upon an Onion. They list the concerts, films, comedy, and theater that are going on, and a lot of them are fairly cheap or free.
While you’re on the subways, look for performers. The Times Square station is a good spot, and there’s usually at least one musician in the area between the 1, N, and L trains (or at the very least, Scientologist stress tests). A lot of the larger stations will have people performing, and they’re usually worth listening to.
You don’t have to worry so much about safety. It’s more likely that someone will try to con you out of your money than steal it from you, and a lot of areas are safe even after dark. The only thing I’d do is take a taxi instead of the subway after 11PM or so. If you’re worried about getting around on the subway, check out Hop Stop: put in the address, and it’ll tell you the quickest way to get there.
If the weather is nice, walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. Though to my eye the skyline is painfully different now, it’s still a great mini-hike.
Assuming you’re staying in Manhattan somewhere, take the subway to DeKalb/Flatbush Ave. in Brooklyn (take the B, M, Q or R train) and eat at Junior’s. The food’s not bad, the cheesecake is famous.
From there you can walk westwards through the Fulton Mall (it’s not a “shopping mall” Mall, but a downtown shopping area centered on Fulton St.) to the Brooklyn Bridge and over to lower Manhattan. Figure it at about an hour’s walk. And if you’re lucky(?), you may get some “real New York” flavor if those preacher guys show up with the microphones and billboards.
If you have good walking stamina (not always the case for out-of-towners), a stroll through historic Brooklyn Heights as a detour en route to the bridge would be scenic as well.
Someone mentioned the Transit Museum – that’s right in this area as well, though (IMHO) it will only really be of interest to resident New Yorkers who remember the old trains or otherwise have a nostalgic interest in the history of the subway system. I wouldn’t think of it being nearly as compelling for a visitor.
A minor hijack, but the absolutely most hilarious and unforgettable subway “musician” I have ever seen was located nigh 'pon that very platform (the N train level of Times Square).
About ten years ago I was waiting for the downtown N train late at night to go back to Brooklyn. Across from me on the other platform was a ragged young guy with an acoustic guitar and open guitar case who was singing – badly. He was executing a medley of highlights of classic songs by The Who.
This being before the days of the iPod, and me without a Walkman, I was forced to listen to him work his way through portions of Substitute and Pictures of Lily. Then he got really worked up over My Generation.
His off-key singing reached screeching crescendos as he literally hopped up and down in a frenzy. Then, just as The Who famously did, he suddenly stopped and gripped his guitar by the neck, swung it high over his head, and in a sharp chopping motion, PANTOMIMED SMASHING HIS GUITAR while screaming. (Being too poor to actually smash his only actual possession, I suppose.)
OH MY GOD it was the most pathetic display I have ever seen.
Ride the Staten Island ferry. You’ll find it at the food of Battery Park. The ferry’s free and gives you a nice view of downtown Manhattan. If you get off head to the Chinese Scholar’s Garden in Snug Harbor about a twenty minute bus ride from the ferry. The garden is a one of kind beauty.
Check out Brighton Beach, Brooklyn. It’s a like a visit to Russia. Take the D train to the Brighton Beach stop and have a look around. Visit Mrs. Stahl’s Knishes for the best in potato filled pastry.
Hit the boardwalk past Brighton Beach and head over to the New York aquarium. The aquarium has all kinds of cool exhibits including beluga whales. That’s where I had my first summer job at sixteen.