California holiday help, please

In 2006, I’d like to have a big, expensive holiday. I have had several short breaks this year, and two one-week breaks in the US. I’ve not had a long, special holiday for ages, and I’m thinking of going to California.

I’d like to do a week in San Francisco and a week in Los Angeles - I’ve never been to SF, and went to LA when I was about 8 so can’t really remember it. Because I don’t know these places very well, I need your help.

Firstly, is this a good idea? Are there other places in that area I should go to instead? I believe SF is a very attractive city, how about LA? I don’t really want to do any more than 2 places - I like to get settled rather than try to see the whole seaboard in 2 weeks. I also would like to avoid getting a car.

We will be relaxing, not wanting to fill every day with sightseeing, but is there enough to see in these places (again, without a car) even at our slow pace?

What’s a good time of year to go? My girlfriend is a sun worshipper, but I’m not - I imagine though LA is warm most of the year. We are restricted by the fact that she’s a student so we might have to go during school holidays.

Can anyone recommend any hotels, or locations I should look for hotels in? Because my girlfriend is a student, it’s likely that I’ll have to pay for most of this holiday, so I’m looking at good value 2, possibly 3 star places. Aircon a must - is that standard in US hotels?

Sorry to bombard you all with questions - I hope you can help me have a great time!

As you can see by my username, I lived in L.A. (I’ve been in Northern Washington for two years now, but I lived in L.A. for 17 years.)

L.A. can be warm. It can also be cold. As the song says, ‘It never rains in sunny Southern California. It pours. Man, it pours.’ That’s reasonably accurate. You go months without rain, and then it hits around February and hangs around until as long as May. A few years ago it rained every day for a month. :slight_smile: But generally there are dry days as well. Temperatures in the Winter and early Spring are cool, but seldom ‘cold’. Of course ‘cold’ is defined differently in Southern California. Winter temperatures can get down into the 40s (Fahrenheit – sorry, I don’t know the Celsius equivalent) and days can be in the 50s. I like Spring, since it’s not too cold and not too hot, and there’s the occasional rain shower. Often the rain is just drizzle, but often too it will pour down. Southern Californians don’t know how to drive in the rain, so freeways will be slower than usual. Local news programmes have ‘Storm Watch [insert year]!’ where they send a hapless reporter to Malibu or someplace to stand in the rain and talk about the houses falling into the ocean or sliding down the hillsides. (Houses fall down in the Anaheim Hills too.)

There’s also ‘June Gloom’. In June the mornings are often overcast, and the overcast can last until the afternoon. But generally the weather is sunny for most of the year.

July through September can be hot. In West L.A. it can be in the mid-to-high-80s or even into the high-90s. ‘The Valley’ (remember the song? Ohmygod!) is, in my experience, about 20° hotter. (I lived in West L.A. and flew helicopters in Van Nuys, 20 miles north in The Valley.) The summer heat is one of the things I hated about L.A. Wouldn’t mind a little of it up here right now though. :wink:

The thing for visitors to do in SoCal is to go to Disneyland. You might find it incredibly lame, or you may enjoy it. Depends on your tastes. Last I heard it costs $50 per person to get in, plus parking. Rather expensive, I think. Queues to get on the rides can be amazingly long. Better to go on a weekday outside of Summer. And if it’s raining the waits should be shorter. I like some of the rides. Indiana Jones, Pirates Of The Caribbean and The Haunted Mansion are my favourites. Oh, and Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride is fun.

If you like amusement parks with roller coasters, then Magic Mountain is the place to go. Better thrill rides in my opinion. It will take you about an hour to get there from L.A. Take the 5 (Southern Californians call freeways ‘the [number]’ for the most part) north and you’ll start seeing signs after you get through the Newhall Pass. Knotts Berry Farm, an Old West themed park, has a couple of good roller coasters but it’s more sedate than Disneyland. It’s in Buena Park, which is close to Disneyland’s Anaheim home.

I went to the Long Beach Aquarium once. I liked it. I was fascinated by the jellies. You can also touch sharks and rays. In L.A. on Wilshire are the famous La Brea Tar Pits. Cool fossils there. Next door is a museum whose name I’ve forgotten (shame on me! :o ) that has lots of good art. The Page Museum?

Up the 405 in the Sepulveda Pass (that’s se-PUL-veh-dah – one Englishman I heard pronouced it ‘sepple-veeda’) is the Getty Museum. I haven’t been, but I’ve flown over it many times. I understand it is free, only you have to pay for parking. I think you may need a reservation.

My favourite place in L.A. is in Santa Monica: Ye Olde King’s Head pub. I love their fish’n’chips, and the bangers’n’mash are good too. After a meal and a pint you can stroll along the 3rd Street Promenade. I remember when this was just another shabby street. You can see it after it had been spruced up in Pee Wee’s Big Adventure. Since that time the street has been closed to motor vehicles and it is now reserved for pedestrians. There are usually a number of buskers there. One of my favourites is Psychic Cat. An Eastern European guy has a couple of cats that he has trained to hand you your fortune. Very cute.

If you go the other way, toward the beach (the King’s Head is on 2nd and Santa Monica Blvd, and the cliffs are just down the street) you can go to the Santa Monica Pier. There are a few carnival rides and arcades, and a vintage merry-go-round.

So you decide to pop into the King’s Head for a ‘traditional English breakfast’ and you feel the need to walk it off. Go down to the beach (as if you’re going to the pier) and start walking South. It’s a two-mile walk to Venice Beach, which is famous for its eclectic crowd. Go on a Saturday for the largest variety. Get your photo taken next to space aliens, see the guy with the mermaid sand sculpture (same sculpture every time), the rasta guy singing (bad) Jimmy Hendrix as he rollerskates along with his white-and-red target painted guitar, read about the evils of meat, get a massage or your fortune told, buy hemp products, beads, joss sticks, paintings and other trinkets… It’s a bizarre bazaar.

Hollywood is scummy. But then, I like scum! No, really. It’s a dirty place. But you can visit The Walk Of Stars to see if you can find the stars of your favourite celebrities. At night, on Sunset Blvd., there is The Cat & Fiddle pub. The food’s not as good as the King’s Head’s, but it’s a cool place to hang out. Sunset also features many venues for music and comedy. The House Of Blues is good. There’s The Troubadour, Whisky A-Go-Go, and others. Carney’s is a ‘hot dog stand’ housed in a couple of train carriages. Chili-burgers and Chili-dogs are great. I recommend it for a quick snack if you’re int he area. If you’re into burgers, there is a never-ending battle over which is better: In-N-Out or Fatburger. In my opinion Fatburger makes better burgers and their fries (skinny or fat) are way superior to In-N-Out’s.

If you feel like cooking (or microwaving) for yourself, go to Trader Joe’s. There are many locations. They have a good selection of very good food, and lots of snacks. I heartily recommend the Cocoa Almonds. I absolutely love them. I bought some last time I went to Trader Joe’s (there’s one 80 miles south of me here in Washington) and my friends made me take them away because they couldn’t stop eating them.

If you want to swim in the ocean, beware: Southern California beaches are not exactly the cleanest ones on the planet. Definitely do not swim for at least three days after a rain. Water temeratures in the summer are usually around 60°F or so. The warmest I remember were 65°F. Not bad, especially on a hot Summer’s day, but not bathwater-warm.

This post is growing rather long, so I’ll stop here for now.

Oh, another thing. Las Vegas is only about 300 miles away. You can drive there in just a few hours. Hotels there offer reduced rates Monday (or Sunday?) through Thursday. Many people find the drive boring, but I like looking at the geological structures and simply the expanse of open space on the 4½-hour drive. Baker, about half-way between Barstow and Vegas, is home to The World’s Largest Thermometer – 138 feet, to commemmorate the highest recorded temperature there. (Amusingly this phallic structure is located next to a café called Bun Boy. :stuck_out_tongue: ) Personally, I prefer to stop in Baker at The Mad Greek for some souvlaki.

You could visit Laughlin, Nevada instead of Vegas, which my mother said is like an older version of Vegas.

Skip LA, unless you like spending a good chunk of time in a car on the freeway.

Go to San Diego instead.

You will most assuredly not need a car in San Francisco. One could walk from one end of the city to the other in a couple of hours, and no matter where you are, you’re almost guaranteed to be within three blocks of a bus line.

If you need sun, you’ll have to come in August or September. That’s the closest we can guarantee you warm weather.

That said, what are you in to? Museums? Hiking? Historical walks? Barhopping? Sports? Photography?

::Gets out reading glasses and sits in comfy chair::
Thanks, Johnny - certainly a lot for me to be going on with! I did go to Disneyland on my first visit - not sure I’d want to go again, but you never know.

I like the idea of flying 5000 miles to have bangers and mash in the King’s Head. My girlfriend may disagree. :wink:

Was it Mark Twain who said, ‘The coldest Winter I ever spent was one Summer in San Francisco.’? :stuck_out_tongue:

Hopefully this will not insult your intelligence, but SF and LA are far away from each other, around 400 miles apart. You would want to fly between those cities unless the novelty value of an all-day drive appeals to you (you know what they say, in America they think 100 years is a long time, in England they think 100 miles is a long way).

As a native New Yorker I am duty bound to frown on the idea of LA as a vacation destination. :slight_smile: But aside from my own bias, it’s a really big, spread out “typical American city” that requires a lot of driving to get from place to place, as public transportation is limited. If you aren’t very comfortable driving in the US I’d have to recommend against it.

Have you considered a visit to Lake Tahoe? The natural beauty of the lake is a huge attraction, and there is skiing of course ($$). There are many inexpensive hotels in South Lake Tahoe, as well as a couple of hotel/casinos if that’s your bag. On the north side of the lake, you can visit Donner Pass – the place where a group of westward-bound pioneers got snowed in with 12 foot+ snowfall and turned to cannibalism. Google “Donner party” for more info on that. Maybe not quite what your girlfriend had in mind :smiley: but pretty cool and only a couple hours from the Bay area.

We’d be interested in museums, great sights (I like photography), shopping, good food. We’re not big walkers, and would spend our time in the cities (mostly). Equally not too bothered about sports (American sports, anyway :wink: ) but could catch a game.

What’s in San Diego for us? We’d be happy in Los Angeles if we could walk to the beach (although I may blind the locals with the sunlight reflecting off my white English skin). I’ve never come across San Diego suggested as a holiday destination.

San Diego: better weather, smaller city, just as much beach, much less crowded, less driving, near the Mexican border.

Did I leave anything out?

What is it they say? ‘Dozens of cities in search of a center?’ (Or ‘centre’. My spelling varies on this one.) The father of a girl I know came over from Yorkshire once. He decided to go to downtown L.A. to get a feel for the city. :stuck_out_tongue: :smiley: :eek:

If you go to a restaurant be sure to make reservations. ‘Donner, party of 87? 86…? 85…?’

Hello Again, I had intended to fly between the two :). I don’t like the idea of the big spread out city… I absolutely hate them. I lived in Ohio for a few years when I was younger, and just have this phobia of enormous suburbs where people will stare at a pedestrian because they are so unusual.
Hmmm… San Diego, you say?

I grew up in San Diego, living there until I was 15. San Diego is said to have the best climate in the U.S. And you can have fires on the beach, which are forbidden in L.A. and Orange Counties. San Diego has Sea World, which I used to enjoy as a child, and Scripp’s Institution Of Oceanography. Balboa Park has the Natural History Museum, and a pretty good aviation museum too. I’ve never been to a better zoo than the San Diego Zoo. There’s also the Wild Animal Park, which is interesting. I’ve heard the Gas Light District is fun, but it came about well after I moved away. When I was a kid I liked looking at the Victorian architecture in some parts of San Diego.

When I was five years old I was nearly kidnapped in Tijuana (Mexico). A woman kept trying to grab my hand, shouting ‘Casa! Casa!’ You can see the Tijuana Trolly from my sister’s house. I’ve never ridden it (again, it came about after I left for the desert), but I’ve heard it’s a fun way to visit Tijuana (or ‘T.J.’, as we called it when I lived there).

When I was little there was a ferry to Coronado Island (which is actually a peninsula, as it’s joined by a narrow strip to the south). Now there’s the Coronado Bridge, which was quite a novelty when it was built. The Hotel del Coronado is a wonderful structure. It’s supposed to be haunted too. (I don’t believe in ghosts, but I like the idea of them.)

Personally San Diego depresses me. I went back for a visit and all of my old friends thought a good time was smoking weed and getting high. Not my scene. Seems like whenever I go back all I see are stoners, or else the golf-shirt-and-gold-chain crowd. But I think the real reason San Diego depresses me is because I was happy there as a child and ‘You can’t go home again’.

Oh good. You seemed like you knew that, but it doesn’t hurt to remind people. Some British and Eurpoean visitors just don’t grok the sheer size of the US.

San Diego also has the famous San Diego Zoo, SeaWorld (the original, I think) and, most importantly, that’s where they lived on “Three’s Company.” LOL.

LA really is a driving city, very spread out, but with a car, it can be fun. For museums, I’d recommend the Getty Center, which is a bit west and north of LA proper. I also recommend the Huntington, which has great botanical gardens and some very good art. I haven’t been to the La Brea Tar Pits since I was a kid, but they were fun.

For people-watching, I echo the Venice Beach recommendation, and I’ll add Olvera Street and Rodeo Drive.

You could also take a day trip (or an overnight) out to Catalina Island.

But San Diego is also good. You could rent an apartment or condo for a week, so you’d have more space and perhaps a small kitchen, and make that your headquarters. Maybe in La Jolla, or Pacific Beach, so you could walk to the beach. Perhaps rent a car one day, and go out to the Wild Animal Park.

Honestly, if I were you, I’d probably do San Francisco and San Diego on my California vacation. I’d probably rent a car to get between them, and take a couple days to drive down the coast, stopping in some of the great cities in between, like Monterrey or Carmel or Santa Barbara. The coast drive, while slower than the inland drive on the 5, is very pretty.

I can recommend several hotels around SF. My husband and I usually end up spending a weekend there once a month or so.

My favorites:

Phoenix Hotel - The area is considered by some to be a little shady, but I’ve never felt unsafe there. The rooms are a bit worn in, but they are clena and comfortable. There’s a nice relaxed, funky feel to the place. the pool is cute, and if you want to use it, I suggest August or September, like Troy McClure SF.

I actually like all of the properties owned by the company that owns the Phoenix. They are nice, and the rates are great.

Hotel del Sol -near the Marina district. Funky rooms similar to the Phoenix.

Commodore Hotel - near Union Square. These rooms are a bit smaller, but perfectly comfortable.

Other nice ones:

Hotel Triton - Rooms are small, but very nice. Really fun looking decor. Right near the entrance of Chinatown.

Argonaut Hotel - Right near Fisherman’s Wharf/Ghiradelli Square/the cable car turnaround, etc. Very nice rooms.

Hotel Diva - LIke many of the older buildings in SF that have been turned into hotels (many of the above mentioned) the rooms are small, and usually oddly shaped. but they are comfortable and very nice. This place usually has good package deals, and the location is perfect.

York Hotel - On Nob Hill, great historic hotel. The Empire Plush Room is a fabulous venue to catch a jazz act. this hotel is famous for being the setting of Alfred Hitchock’s Vertigo. Very nice.

Hotel Monaco - Excellent prices and nice rooms. Not as kitschy or uniquely SF as some of the others, but a great value and a great location.

Marriott - Great location, awesome Sunday brunch, nice lounge at the top with some good views of the city.

I personally think San Francisco is a lovely city, plenty to do, gorgeous sights and architecture, great museums and history, and some of the best restaurants anywhere. And some damn fun bars. :wink:

‘La Hoya’. :wink:

I used to live near Camarillo, up in Ventura County. When I moved to Texas, guess how I pronounced Amarillo.

Ditto Johnny’s recommendation of the Hotel del Coronado (you can call it the “Hotel del” and everyone knows what you’re talking about). Go have lunch there one day. Absolutely beautiful.

If you have the time and inclination, the coastal drive between SF and LA is beautiful and there are some great places to stop- Make sure to stop in Santa Cruz to see a quintessential California beach town (it’s also a good place to see redwoods.) There is plenty of good, if chilly, beach walking there.

The Green Tortoise, a funky adventure travel outfit, offers a scenic shuttle. They are a lot of fun.

SF can be very chilly. Bring clothes you can layer. Your hotel will have air conditioning, but you won’t need it. You’ll have plenty to do for a week and there is absolutely no need to rent a car. Don’t expect any time on the beach, though. Focus on food and strolling and you’ll have a great time.

If you want a change from SF, it’s always fun to spend a day walking around in Berkeley. It’s just a half hour BART ride away. If you make it on a Sunday, you can experience the legendary Thai Brunch. If you are feeling extravangent, you can have dinner at Chez Panisse (or, less extravagently, the Chez Panisse Cafe.)

The De Young Museum, in the middle of Golden Gate Park, is brand-spanking new. There’s also the Legion of Honor.

Well, I don’t have to tell you about the Golden Gate Bridge or Coit Tower. But there are a lot of great views to be had in San Francisco. Twin Peaks is the “default” view of the City… lots of tour buses and such, but for good reason. I’ll stop there, but there are tons more, if you ask.

Shopping not so much up my alley, but I do know there’s a lot of it to be had. Plenty of good food all over the place, of just about every kind of cuisine you could imagine.

You could stay completely within the City during your stay and not really miss out, IMHO.

SBC Park, where the Giants (baseball) play is a gorgeous stadium, and even if you’re not interested in the game, it’s a good photo op. It’s right on the water near the Bay Bridge. Ooh, that reminds me, you might want to stop by Treasure Island for a great cityscape.