Well, this may be a strange place to ask this question, but here goes:
Kenmore electric stove (traditional with removal burners).
A few days ago, smoke came out of the controls. 3 of the 4 burners still working. The largest burner not worker, and the leads to the t.o.d. (temperature overage detector) unit melted and ugly.
What do you suggest, o ye teeming millions?
Dave
Re ‘smoke coming out of the controls’, just to be clear are you saying the burner control rheostat under the knob is burned out, or the stove element itself, or both.
Both are normally easily replaceable and parts and can be had at a Sears service center, or if you have the part #s you can order them online.
Find the exact model number of your stove (model, not serial number). It may be eight, ten digits so make sure you get it exactly right. Search Google for ‘Kenmore xxxxxxxx’ with the x’s being that model number. You should be able to find pdf’s for the Owners and Service manuals. Sometimes Sears only sells these, but look on other sites, you’ll probably be able to find a free copy. There may even be a small service sheet taped inside the back of the top control panel.
Look in the Troubleshooting Section of the Owners manual, there might be an entry that matches your description. Or, if you’re a little mechanically inclined or know someone who is, check the Service manual. It should have a schematic showing what does what and where.
Thank you. Smoke coming from the rheostat. But probably actually coming up through the rheostat from the melting wires to the t.o.d. (thermostat).
I know how to use a multimeter, so what do I need to test the rheostat and thermostat so I can figure out which (or both?) to replace?
@Hail Ants, I have been able to find a general diagram, but not much in the troubleshooting department.
Thanks, both of you, for replying!
I don’t know the answer, but if 3 out of four are still working you should be able to just compare results from the other 3. Or perhaps swap out parts till you find which part is defective, although this may result in you burning out a previously working part.
Good thought. Thanks.
I’d personally prefer replacing both the control rheostat and thermostat.
Replacing one part may result in burning up the replacement. It’s cheaper to just replace both at once. ymmv
You check a rheostat using the ohms setting on your meter. It should have a varying resistance as you turn the knob.
check the other ones to get a baseline of what the resistance should be.
A bad rheostat will usually show an infinite resistance. Anything over 10k ohms is probably bad. But use your readings on the other good ones as a guide.
Sounds like the “sadder but wiser” voice of experience. Thanks.