On the remote off chance this is something not related to the compressor I’m posting this before hauling it out of here.
Lights work and fan blows, but no cooling at all in either freezer or fridge sections.
Any hope before shopping for a new fridge?
if the cooling fins are covered in dust it will make getting any cooling hard to do.
A 20 year old fridge is likely a “frost-free” fridge. That means it has a timer (originally a little mechanical motor) that rotated a switch from heat to cool. The usual giveaway that this is toast is either The fridge never defrosts or overheats. Usually these fridges have a plastic tube from the freezer up top to an evaporator pan underneath the fridge.
I had a frdige like this, I either had to unplug it and defrost it for 2 days, or take apart the freezer and use a hair dryer or heat gun to melt the ice. The timer was stuck on cool. I also saw a fridge where the timer was stuck on the short defros cycle, and it actually got very hot inside. It is remotely possible, but unlikely, that your fridge is stuck in between, rather than simply the coolant leaked out.
If you can read the wiring diagram well enough to figure out which leads are which, short out the leads so it knows to cool, then see if it does. If it sounds like the compressor is going steady, but no cool, then your fridge is toastado. Not sure if a pressure test, diagnosis, recharge, is cheaper than a new fridge, but I bet it’s close…
A 20 year old fridge isn’t worth repairing due to the improvements in energy efficiency. If you can swing it, you almost certainly will come out ahead buying a new one.
I just had my 20 year old fridge repaired for $168. It needed a thermostat that controlled the defrosting cycle. The old one was stuck open and the ice built up and prevented the main compartment from cooling. (The freezer worked fine.)
Yes, it was worth it.
If you can hear or feel the compressor running and it doesn’t cool, it may be out of Freon. It can be replaced, but is heavily regulated.
If the compressor isn’t running, check to see if it has 120 volts to it. If so and no go, it is gone.
If you have not damaged the unit it will not be out of Freon.
if you can reach the compressor can see if it is warm be cafeful it can be hot. If not the it is probably not running. As to why? Bad compressor, bad defrost timer of contacts some where.
If the compressor is running. the problem could be needs to defrost, or bad compressor.
which fan, the fan outside (the condenser fan) or the fan inside the freezer (the evaporator fan?) I fixed the folks’ fridge last year for a “no-cooling” problem, the evaporator fan motor wore out the motor shaft bushings, letting the fan bind against the housing and stopping airflow.
One of the commonest causes of failure of refrigeration equipment is the gradual loss of Freon.
The inside fan is blowing in both the freezer and lower sections but it’s just room temp air.
On home frig units? A gradual leak is an indication of damage to the units tubing. A home unit is completely sealed with no threaded fittings to come loose.
There are many, many joints plus where the Freon was added, pressure ports, etc. That all came from the factory perfectly sealed and still are after 20 years…
No, the point is that you will recoup the total cost of a new fridge through lower electricity bills over it’s life time. Buying a new fridge over repairing an old one has a positive net present value. In other words, you expect to save money over the long term with a new fridge.
That depends entirely on: (1) the initial cost, (2) the amount saved over a period of time, and (3) the cost of the money to buy it if borrowed, or amount lost if taken from interest-bearing savings.
If the new unit is only 10% more efficient than the old, it will take a lot longer (if ever) to recoup the initial investment than if the efficiency improvement was 30%. How much more efficient, and how many dollars per year does that translate to, is a 2012 fridge compared to a 1992 model?
Which makes no difference in my case, since I can barely afford the $168 to repair it, and can’t afford the $800 it might cost to replace it.
The Energy Star site says about $100 a year: ENERGY STAR Flip Your Fridge Calculator | Products | ENERGY STAR. A new fridge is $600. You’re looking at about 7-8 years to get your money back, assuming 5% interest.
Many new appliances are made in China POS. Anything I can fix, I will, We are still using the gas dryer we bought in 1973. Also many new things have electronic controls requiring an expensive board replacement. I paid $300 for the one in my furnace.
That is the point that I am making the remain sealed for 20+ years.