I figure that you’re going to get lots of suggestions for well-established places in neighborhoods below Penn Station. And you probably already know about Eataly, Gotham Market, etc., so there’s no need for me to mention them here.
Here are some less-on-the-beaten-track suggestions for Friday’s food fest. Pick any of them, but don’t try to combine them in a single day. (You might be able to combine the Harlem and Upper West Side places, but there’s more than enough in each neighborhood to keep you busy and interested for the day.)
For each possible destination, I’ve given you an estimated travel time from Penn Station. All time estimates are door to door. I’ve added some time to each estimate to account for time spent figuring out subway stations, walking the wrong way at first, dealing with delays, etc. I figure it’s always better to get places early and have time to wander around than it is to get to places late and find yourself stressed out about getting to your next destination, or back to the hotel, or wherever on time.
- Koreatown. (Korean. And no need to take a train; Koreatown is a couple of blocks from Penn Station.)
Since Koreatown is a pretty standard part of the tourist itinerary, you probably don’t need much more info from me. In case you do, look here.
- The Upper West Side (about 20 to 40 minutes each way, depending on what part of the neighborhood you’re going to.)
Here are some good places on the UWS:
The Hummus Place (Amsterdam Ave., btw. 74th and 75th Sts. About 25 minutes from Penn Station on the 1 train.)
Levain Bakery. (Amsterdam Ave. and 74th St. About 25 minutes from Penn Station on the 1 train.)
Jacob’s Pickles (Amsterdam Ave., btw. 84th and 85th Sts. About 35 minutes from Penn Station on the 1 train)
Absolute Bagel (the best bagels in NYC, IMHO). Broadway and 108th St. About 40 minutes from Penn Station on the 1 train.)
The Hungarian Pastry Shop (Amsterdam Ave. and 111th St. About 40 minutes from Penn Station on the 1 train.)
The Hungarian Pastry Shop, btw, is right by the Cathedral of St. John the Divine and Book Culture (the one at 112th St. The others just aren’t as good.) Amsterdam at 110th to 112th is one of my favorite little pockets of the city. If you go to the Cathedral, make sure to wander around the gardens when you’re done seeing the building and art exhibits. (Exit the cathedral through the side door, so you can walk around a bit.) Enjoy the trees, sculpture, and manicured grounds. It might be cold by the time you arrive, but if it’s warm, keep an eye out for the peacocks.
- Harlem (about 45 minutes on the B or C train. Get off at 116th St. and start walking north on Frederick Douglass Blvd.) In the last seven years or so, Frederick Douglass Blvd. has become Restaurant Row, with lots of inventive fusion restaurants you won’t find elsewhere.
There are some great places away from Frederick Douglass, too. A few blocks away is Amy Ruth’s. IMHO, it’s some of the best Harlem-style soul food around. Try the ribs or the chicken and waffles.
If you take the 2 or 3 trains from Penn Station to 125th St. (about 30 minutes), you’ll get to Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster , andSylvia’s. (IMHO, if you go to Sylvia’s alone, sit at the lunch counter, rather than in the dining room. People are friendly, and you’ll probably end up in a conversation. Despite Sylvia’s fame, the lunch counter is still very much a neighborhood place, with its set of local regulars.)
Red Rooster and Sylvia’s are both near the Studio Museum in Harlem, which is also well worth a visit.
- Jackson Heights, aka “Little India” and “Little Nepal.” (Various Indian, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi cuisines, with some Korean, Mexican, and South American. Also close to Thai Town. About 45 minutes to an hour each way, depending on which part of the neighborhood you go to.) From Penn Station, take the E going uptown/to Queens. Get off at the Jackson Heights/Roosevelt Ave. stop. Have some of the best Calcutta-style Indo-Chinese, Nepali, Bangladeshi, Indian, and South American food on the planet. (No, really.) If you’re up for a walk from Jackson Heights, and you can still move after everything you’ve eaten there, you could head to Thai Town, in neighboring Elmhurst.
See this article for specific restaurant suggestions. I also have my own set of favorites, but I don’t want to overwhelm you with suggestions.
Jackson Heights also has truly lovely historic district. It’s beautiful in the fall. The Greystone is one of my favorite buildings in the city, mainly for its interior garden.
- The Bronx’s Little Italy, aka “Belmont” or “Arthur Avenue.” (Italian, Albanian, and some surprisingly good Northern Mexican. An hour and 20 minutes each way). From Penn Station, take the D train to Fordham Plaza, in the Bronx. From there, walk about four blocks to the Bronx’s Little Italy.
For whatever reason, a lot of the websites and food tours focus solely on the Italian food, leaving out the Albanian stuff. Here’s a website that focuses on Italian food and culture. Here are reviews of Tradita, and Gurra Cafe, two Albanian places worth visiting.
BTW–the Bronx’s Little Italy is also a very pretty neighborhood to walk around in. And it’s right near the New York Botanical Garden. I’ve had great days going to the NYBG and then to Arthur Ave. for dinner.