There seems to be some confusion over this issue, not least because it’s quite confusing. I used to tour the world giving trainings on just this very subject, and I know many of the people who developed the original CD-R systems, so here it is straight from the horse’s mouth:
Audio CD-Rs (and audio CD-RWs) are designed to a higher quality level than data CD-Rs (and data CD-RWs), and are more suitable for archiving valuable recordings as they will last longer. How long exactly only time will tell - maybe a few decades if they’re kept in a cool dark place.
As mentioned, they have data encoded on them that tells an audio CD recorder that royalties have been paid, and a lot of recorders (including mine) won’t record to data discs. On some models you could fool them by inserting an audio disc, letting it read the manuafcturer’s data, and then open the CD drawer a small amount by poking the emergency drawer-open hole with a bent paper clip, taking out the audio disc, and replacing it with a data disc. My recorder doesn’t have a manual tray eject, so I record everything to one scratchpad audio CD-RW, and then copy that to a data CD-R on my PC.
It’s not true that all CD-Rs are the same. They’re often very different. Avoid no-name discs, or branded discs sold suspiciously cheap from a dodgy source, as they’re probably inferior pirates that won’t last very long. Certain discs work better with certain recorders. There’s a very good reason for this - the complex laser pulses used to write the pits on the disc (know as the “write strategy”) is optimised for every manufacturer’s disc, and is different for each possible recording speed. The recorder manufacturers have to tune their designs to give the best results with a range of discs, but there are so many brands out there that not all can be tested and optimsed for. Thus the disc brands that the recorder manufacturer recommends are usually guaranteed to work reasonably well, and you take your chances with the rest.
Data is not mere data when recording audio. It’s not stored as a sequence of ones and zeros; rather they’re a series of dark coloured pits and light coloured lands that vary in length from 3 clock periods to 11 clock periods. There will be certain errors when writing and reading this data (know as jitter), and if the jitter is too high, the pit/land length is wrong. All CDs contain many such errors, but these can usually be compensated for by the redundant data in the CIRC error-checking algoriithm. Correctable false pit/land lengths are known as C1 errors, and if there are too many of these the error correction can’t cope, and uncorrectable C2 errors are produced. An audio CD player will try and smudge over these errors if it can (else it will start skipping or dropping out), but it’s a disaster for non-audio data.
Jitter figures also play a small part in CD sound quality, though this will be unnoticed by most. The clock signal for the CD is derived from the CD data, and if the data jitter is high, then the clock jitter will be higher too (though there are ways to reduce it a little). Too much clock jitter on a CD makes the soundstage a little “muddy”, even before it starts generating errors.
For best results, record with a disc brand and type as recommended by the recorder manufacturer. Record CD-Rs at half the maximum recorder speed, and CD-RWs at half the maximum disc speed (it’s a write strategy thing).
This is all a bit of a simplification - it gets much more complicated if you want it to…