A week in Bangkok! Recommendations and advice?

Hey folks, looks like work might be shipping me off to Bangkok for a week. I’m just now checking Wikipedia and other resources for info about the city - heck, I didn’t even know what the currency was called, and I don’t know a word of Thai.

How’s the situation for an English-speaking gringo like myself? I’ll be staying at The Metropolitan, I think, and I expect to have transport (and translation help) during my work day. Evenings and Saturday, though, I’ll be on my own. Any tips for getting around?

And, on a separate note, what are your favorite spots (touristy, foody, etc.)? Work gives me a generous US$60/day to feed myself.

Are you male or female?

If you’re male, “kahp koon kahb” means thank you.

If you’re female it’s “kahp koon kah”.

As for the rest of the phrasing, I’d suggest getting one of those backpacker’s books for Thailand. I advise Lonely Planet, Let’s Go!, Footprint, Rough Guide or Rick Steve’s (for sorta posh living).

If you like shopping in a mall, go to MBK (Mah Boon Khrong).

If you like flea market shopping, go to JJ Market (Jatujak Market).

While you’re in Thailand, get a massage. It’s cheap and so heavenly! I always went to my family’s friend’s place, so I’m not sure where you should go. Paging Siam Sam!

Oh, and watch a movie in MBK. The screens are HUGE! The movies are edited, but I think it would be fun to watch a movie with such a huge screen and it’s interesting to have to stand up for the Thai anthem at the beginning of the movie.

Umm the rest of the stuff I’d suggest are all over the country. Will you just be in Bangkok the entire week?

Good question - I’m male. And kahp koon kahb for my first Thai word. :slight_smile:

I’ll only have one spare day (Saturday) to tour around, so unless you know of an incomparable road trip that supersedes everything the city has to offer, then yes I’m just looking for Bangkok tips.

All the Buddhist temples look like they’re must-see, no?

Get Thai’d! You’re talking to a tourist
Whose every move’s among the purest
I get my kicks above the waistline, sunshine.

Couldn’t resist. :slight_smile: Have fun…and keep your wits about you so you don’t wake up next to an unfamiliar ladyboy. :wink:

Don’t know much myself, but I imagine this would be the perfect spot for Siam Sam to step in.

Ok, first rule: don’t wai anyone. You just won’t get it right. If someone wais you, like the folks at the hotel, just smile and nod your head. They understand that we don’t get it (may not hold for long term expats like Siam Sam, but for you this is absolutely correct). If someone at work does this, you can still smile and offer your hand for a handshake.

Second rule: don’t do anything stupid or embarrassing that will get back to your work. In Bangkok that can mostly mean involvement with women, or boys if be that’s your thing, that are on the hustle. Problem is that sometimes it may not be clear to you that they are.

Third rule: most Thai people are really nice and cool and what not. But there are most definitely some that are not. Unless you’re a very savvy person you probably won’t be able to tell the difference. So be careful about anyone who is just too nice or any one offering to get you a deal that is too good to be true.

It would be best if you can get someone you know or trust to kind of show you around. You’re coming up on the best time of year for weather, so hopefully you’re going soon.

As for places to visit, you can’t see all the Buddhist temples, so pick one. Jatujak market is a pretty interesting place. I like to suggest Muang Boran for folks who don’t have a lot of time in country, but you do need a car and driver for that.

*wai is the Thai way of greeting, with a bow and their hands steepled together. It’s a really cool gesture, but there can be a lot of nuance involved, depending on social, business and age levels. I mostly reserve this for my in-laws, as I know I need to be respectful with them.

Welcome to Bangkok. The Metropolitan is unfortunately not on the Skytrain line, but not too far from it and not too far from the river, both of which make it easy to get around. The Skytrain is swift and fast, and the river taxi can take you to the Old Part of the city. The river taxi is fun and unique in itself. You will be within close walking distance to the subway; the Skytrain is more fun, because you can see the city from an elevated view, and the subway intersects with the Skytrain at three points.

US$60 a day for food will allow you to eat like a king.

I disagree that you should never wai anyone. No, you won’t get it right, but being a foreigner, and a newbie one at that, no one will expect you to get it right, but people will be pleased that you are making the effort. One very important exception: Never – and I mean NEVER EVER – wai a bargirl. A lot of tourists make this mistake. The girls will not feel “honored.” They will laugh at you (not with you) and joke among themselves about what a stupid, friggin’ idiot you are to be waiing a bargirl. Seriously, far from feeling honored, they will look down on you for it, seriously down on you. Otherwise, feel free to wai everyone else, but don’t go overboard. I’ve seen tourists constantly waiing the same person every minute or so. Just wai once when you meet them and once when you leave, and maybe once for “thank you” if they’ve just done you a favor or given you something. Do not be surprised if monks do not return your wai; monks do not wai anyone, not even the king.

The Metropolitan is close to Convent Road, which is an interesting stroll and full of lots of little eateries. I know you’ll be all up for Thai food, but I have to say the Sunday all-you-can-eat brunch at Molly Malone’s Irish Pub is fantastic and good value. If you want to see what local expats look like while enjoying some really good Irish food, that’s where you can see 'em on a Sunday noontime. Convent Road is also on the way to Patpong if you feel so inclined to check that out (Madrid Bar not only arguably has the best pizza in Bangkok, but also at one time was owned by the real-life counterpart of Colonel Kurtz in Apocalypse Now. Sadly, he’s dead now.)

You’re also near Lumpini Park, which is a nice area to walk around in the daytime. Closed at night.

Muang Boran is indeed a good place to get a feel for the rest of Thailand if you can’t make it upcountry, but it’s hard to get to. You could take a bus, but I would not recommend that unless you weer more familiar with the system. yes, a car and driver for the day would be best, but then the driver’s just sitting there waiting for you most of the time. Taking a river taxi to the Old Town part of the city, called Rattanakosin, with Khao San Road and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha in the middle, is recommended. In that area is also Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn. Scammers proliferate around the area, so use common sense.

Scams: Bangkok is scam central. Violent crime is almost nonexistent, but watch your bag and wallet. Thais are very friendly but NOT so friendly that they want to adopt you as their brother right on the spot. They’re also a little shy and reserved and will usually not start chatting you up right away. Be suspicious of any stranger who appears overly friendly. That goes double for ANYONE who says they have a friend or relative studying in your hometown or is about to go there. No matter how official someone looks, never believe him if he says something is closed for whatever reason; tourist sites do NOT close on holidays. In fact, they never EVER close except at the end of each day. The Skytrain runs 7 days a week 6am-midnight; some people have been lured away by being told the Skytrain does not run on Sundays, even when it was clearly passing by overhead.

The gem scam is especially prevalent here; no, there are NOT ANY government-sanctioned stores, and they do NOT have once-a-year specials that you’re lucky enough to be there on the one day of the year they hold it. the gem scammers are especially persuasive. Even folks who have read all the warnings admit to STILL having been scammed, they were so persuasive. You CANNOT buy gems cheaply here and sell them for a profit in the West, although they will try hard to convince you that is the case. If it were true, they’d be doing it themselves, although they’ll come up with a variety of plausible-sounding reasons why they can’t. And the police will not help you; as long as they’ve actually sold you gems and not, say, cut glass, they’ve not technically broken the law; it’s just that the gems are worth much less than what they led you to believe you could get for them, even less than what you’ve paid for them. Unless you’re a gemologist, just stay OUT of gem stores, period. And don’t listen to fantastic deals at tailor shops either. It’s definitely a case of Buyer Beware here.

Related to scams are tuktuks, the little three-wheeled open-air motorized taxis. Take one for fun, maybe even two, but no matter how hard you bargain, you WILL pay at least double what a Thai pays. Metered air-con taxis are ALWAYS cheaper, even for short hops, so best not to fool with tuktuks except as a fun experience. Never take an air-con taxi that will not use the meter; these are found around just about every bar area and many tourist sites. Simply walk away and hail one down in the street. When I’m out late in the bars, I automatically pass by the taxis parked by the road and hail one down. There are taxi queues at the shopping centers, though, and those are safe; they are required to use the meters and not give you any guff. I assume someone will be picking you up at the airport; if not, use the regular taxi queue there and don’t listen to anyone offering to give you a ride for a flat fee. Tuktuks will also often offer to take you on a full-day sightseeing tour of the city for an outrageously low price, like a buck American, but instead they will really take you to gem and tailor shops that put on the high-pressure sales techniques; the tuktuk driver will secretly receive a fat commission.

Don’t let the scam warnings scare you. Just use common sense and give short shrift to anyone who is overly friendly and you’ll be fine. Thailand is so much safer and more laid back than many other nearby countries that a lot of tourists who have been travelling around tend to let their guard down here, and so the scammers are succesful with them even though they would normally know better.

Bar areas. Patpong is worth a look for the history. A little old and tired now but has a good night market set up for souvenirs. I like the place, but of course these days I don’t go there for the girls, who are largely also old and tired in Patpong, with some exceptions. A lot of tourists expect it to be better than it is. Be careful about some of the upstairs shows. They’ll say no cover charge and then sock you with a giant bill. The safe upstairs ones are owned by what’s called the King’s Group and the Queen’s Group; You will NOT be scammed in those bars. For downstairs bars, Safari Bar (mentioned prominently in at least one Tom Robbins book) and Goldfingers have good music late at night. The aforementioned Madrid Bar has great pizza and other food, but best known for their pizza; I recommend the Madrid Special.

And forgive me for mentioning it, especially if you are actually female, but no rundown on Patpong would be complete without saying, but Rose, Kangaroo (both upstairs) and Star of Light bars are all what are called blowjob bars. In Star of Light, you’ll even be serviced right at the bar while you’re enjoying your beer. Star of Light opens at 10am, Rose at noon, Kangaroo in the early afternoon. You will not be ripped off in any of those. In fact, many of the Star of Light girls have worked there for years and take special pride in their skill. I admit I have taken people there who really, really wanted to see it for themselves.

Nana Plaza and Soi Cowboy are two other bar areas, and you will not be scammed in any bar there. Nana Plaza has become too expensive and focuses nowadays a lot on Japanese tourists, because they throw around money like there was no tomorrow. Many of the girls even dress themselves up as and wear their hair like Japanese, to attract them. I’d say pass on Nana; I’ve not been there for a couple of years, and every time I hear about it, it’s always negatively. There are a few transvestite bars there, though, if that’s your thing: Casanova, Obsession and Cascade. There’s also another blowjob bar a block or so over in Soi 8 called Lolita’s; it’s actually a nationwide chain, with branches in Pattaya and Hua Hin and opens at 11am. (Used to have a branch in Patpong, but just could not compete with the longer-established BJ bars and so shut down soon.)

Near Nana Plaza is a little bar area in Soi 7/1 (note that’s 7/1, NOT 7) that is laid back and low key but kind of nice. Nothing special, but no hassles.

Soi Cowboy is arguably the best bar area now. A really fun atmosphere, lots of neon, no scams. The best live lesbian sex shows, too, and really no cover charge for them. For the shows, go to Suzie Wong or Sheba’s. The shows start about 10:30pm, but best to be there not too later than 10. A good clue that a show is about to start is that it’s filling up with guys suddenly. You can get a hand job or blowjob in the Naughty Boy Corner of After Skool Bar, where the girls all dress up like schoolgirls, and hand jobs in Fanny’s, Moonshine Joint, Jungle Jim’s and Toy bars, but if that is NOT what you’re after, don’t even bother going in, as while you won’t get scammed, the girls will give you some heavy pressure to indulge, and there are lots of other bars there that allow you to just sit back and mellow out. A good bar rundown for Soi Cowboy is here. I particularly like Five Star Bar, with its long-running Iron Horse Band that plays all of the hits from the 1960s and 1970s, like The Beatles and The Eagles, even Pink Floyd! It also has the cheapest beer in the soi.

Oh, there’s going to be maybe a four-day bar closure from about this coming Friday (no one’s sure of the exact days), because of a public cremation for a member of the royal family. There are always bars that stay open secretly, but they may not be apparent to the average tourist’s eye.

Back to regular tourist stuff. A day trip out of the city could include Ayutthaya and Bang Pa-in, two hours or less north of Bangkok. A weekend trip to Kanchanaburi is good; that’s where the actual Bridge over the River Khwai is. Chatuchak Market, at the end of one of the Skytrain lines and near a subway stop, is interesting to see. The wife says she actually likes Khao San Road better for tourist trinkets, says Khao San Road is actually cheaper; that’s where she goes to buy gifts for foreigners, Khao San Road.

You will be within walking distance of the Suan Lum Night Bazaar, across from Lumpini Park. It’s a newer, cleaner version of Chatuchak Market. Some good beer places there, too. For merchandise, bargain hard at markets like Suan Lum and Chatuchak; there is usually no bargaining in shopping centers and department stores, except maybe at independent stands just renting space.

I would not worry about the political violence you may have been hearing about. That is not very close to most toursut areas. It’s a little close to Vimanmek Mansion, the former palace of King Chulalongkorn (and the largest teakwood building in the world, but you probably won’t get caught up in that.

The movie situation is improving. Movies are not as heavily censored as they used to be, and they just implemented an experimental US-style rating system on the first of this month. In the past a movie might have the naughty bits Vaselined over or cut out altogether in one cinema but not another, but supposedly now they won’t. We’ll see. The cinemas in the shopping malls are very modern, but our favorite one is the Scala in Siam Square. A giant, venerable old movie house, tickets still only about US$3. The new James Bond is there now. The Siam, also in Siam Square, runs a close second.

The shopping centers are worth a look. Siam Paragon is a couple of years old and the largest shopping center in Southeast Asia or maybe all of Asia, something like that. It has a giant aquarium in the basement (which they originally tried to bill as the largest in the Southern Hemisphere; no mean trick considering we’re north of the equator :D). The Emporium is good, MBK is good. The main Central Department Store is good. All of these, and Siam Square, are on the Skytrain line.

And yes, pick up a good guidebook. I second the recommendation for Lonely Planet; they even have a book just for Bangkok and the surrounding area.

Hope this helps. Enjoy! :smiley:

Hehe you’re so cute! You’re very welcome!

Then yes, I’d stick to Bangkok if I were you because one day isn’t much time to see the sights of Thailand. Stick with MBK because that in itself is a wonder. You’ll be sure to find tons of knick knacks, clothing, basically anything your heart desires to bring back to the U.S. If you’d like to bring back souvenirs, I recommend bringing back some silk scarves for your female friends/relatives. They’re light, pretty, authentic and hey, they’re in style so why not? As for what to get your male friends/relatives, I have no idea. You’re a guy. I think you can figure that out yourself. :wink:

I also recommend eating in the food court in MBK. I believe it’s the…5th floor? They have reasonably priced authentic Thai food that you won’t get sick from and the sweets there are varied and very good! Since it’s your first time in Thailand, I’d stick to eating Thai food in the malls because food from the street stalls…could take some getting used to and you could get sick from them.

And since you’re male, you can touch the monks in the temple. Women aren’t allowed to, so you might want to pass that on to any female co-workers who would be visiting a temple. Just something to look out for. Be careful of taking pictures in the temples. Some areas are off-limits for cameras and video recorders. Oh and pay attention to the signs stating that you’ll need to take off your shoes. If you’re going to a temple, wear some shoes that are easy to take off or flip flops.

I honestly haven’t visited a temple in years so I can’t really recommend any. They’re all pretty standard, so I’d wait for Siam Sam to suggest a few to visit.

Good luck and have fun!

One other scam: Beggars. Especially begging monks. Monks are not allowed to solicit donations, and there is a problem these days with fake monks. It’s illegal to impersonate a monk, but they get around it by wearing robes that are slightly different from those of Thai monks. Some of them are even from China and not Thai at all, but they’re still not monks. The police are paid to look the other way, of course, but the police could not get away with looking the other way if they were wearing real Thai-style monks’ robes. (There’s actually a big American who has been going around tearing the robes off of these fake monks, to the applause of local vendors, who are disgusted by them, but I say he’s looking for trouble from the Beggar Mafia.) Fake begging monks are found only in tourist areas – and even bar areas! – because no Thai would ever fall for it.

Beggars in general are a scam. No matter how sad they look, don’t give money. They often run in themes. One month it will be small children with puppies everywhere. Another month it will be women with small babies. Often, it’s not their babies, but rented one. (There was even a case of a transvestite in Pattaya who rented “her” neighbor’s baby to beg with.) And no beggar gets to keep the proceeds; they must turn it all in to their minders. Many are from Cambodia, and the police rounded them all up once and few them back to Phnom Penh, thus actually giving them a treat, their first-ever airplane ride!

The beggar situation is straight out of Dickens; don’t fall for it. If a real beggar ever came along, he’d be beaten, or worse, for infringing on the scammers’ territory.

I would not advise going to Siam Paragon. When I went there, it was just like going to a mall in the U.S. Very over-priced. Very nice brands. Very not worth it.

Knowing that you’ll be ripped off some, I still advise taking a tuktuk because it’s just something you have to experience while you’re there! It’s fun and makes you feel like you might die because the driver is driving so erratically. You just have to try it!

I also would not advise you to buy movies from Thailand. Usually they’re good, but meh, not worth the hassle and you need a DVD player that reads all regions.

Sixth floor … I think. Yes, that IS a good food court, but ya know, I actually only eat at the Egytian stand there, it’s SO good. But the Thai stuff all looks great, too.

Yes, eating at street stalls runs the risk of Bangkok Belly. All the vehicle pollution settles into it, too. I almost never eat at street stalls anymore. (Maybe in the wee hours of the morning if I’m leaving the bars and are really hungry; good people-watching then along Lower Sukhumvit.)

I missed the part about the OP being a guy, so I hope the bar rundown is helpful. :smiley:

A great place for silk is Jim Thompson. A bit expensive, although to a newbie American it will seem cheap, but the quality is guaranteed. The main Jim Thompson shop is not too far from the OP’s hotel – on Suriwong Road off of Rama IV Road – and there are other branches in main shopping malls, includng Siam Paragon, The Emporium and Central World. Plus his house is near MBK and a marvel to see. (Don’t believe anyone who says it’s closed).

Thompson was OSS in World War II and parachuted into Japanese-occupied Siam. Afterward, he single-handedly built up the Thai silk industry internationally. He disappeared mysteriously while on a walk in Malaysia in 1967. Fuelling conspiracy theories was that his sister was killed in a burglary gone wrong in her place in New York City the same year. But a few years ago, a Malaysian truck driver finally came forward with some sort of plausible evidence that he’s actually hit Thompson accidentally and then hid the body in the jungle. Or so he says.

Yes, very overpriced, but sort of interesting to see. The cinema there is good. We like the supermarket on the ground floor.

One other thing: No shorts or tanktops in temples. They’re especially strict about this at the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, where they make you rent long pants if you show up in shorts. We had visitors with three small boys last year – the mother had actually lived here before – and since they only had one pair of clean long pants for their three boys, they thought they could fudge it for the children. But no. The other two small boys had to rent long pants.

If you have only one free day, I’d say see that and Temple of the Dawn across the river, and maybe the Sleeping Buddha temple (Wat Pho) near the Emerald Buddha.

Interesting, yes. Worth his limited time there, I’m not so sure.

Their cinema might be good, but does theirs have a bowling alley like MBK does!? Since he’s not going to be in Thailand very long, I don’t think he’ll have need of visiting a supermarket.

I don’t know, I might be projecting my fav places to visit when I’m in Thailand. :stuck_out_tongue:

No, no bowling alley. But there IS a Jim Thompson’s in there, and the aquarium is worth a look, IF pricey. Still, if it’s just one free day he has, I’d say spend it in the Old Part of the city, Emerald Buddha and all that. But of course, the shopping centers will all be open in the evenings, and he can get to all the important ones by Skytrain.

NEVER try to attract a waiter’s attention by clicking your fingers. This would be considered extremely rude. Hold your hand in the air with the fingers pointing down, and “walk” with your fingers

Well if you MUST get all touristy with him, then fine! :stuck_out_tongue:

I don’t like the Temple of the Dawn. Then again, I think it’s creepy, but that’s just me.

Really? I actually like it better than Emerald Buddha in some ways. It’s certainly cheaper! Have always found it strikingly beautiful, especially from the river. It must have been neat looking across the river back at what is now Bangkok but was then just a little fishing village back when that side of the river was the capital briefly. You can’t go all the way up it anymore, something about someone fell off and died in recent years, but you can go up part of the way. The broken pieces of pottery all embedded in it came from ship ballast back in the old days when broken pottery was commonly used for ballast.

Twenty years ago, I knew an American lady, and we were up there together. I was around on one side, and she was on the other side talking to a novice (a child or teenager wearing robes; “monklets” we often refer to them as informally. Only adults are called monks). This one must have been about 12 or 13. Suddenly, she comes running around all distraught. The little bugger had copped a feel on her! :smiley: You have to be careful with these holy guys. :smiley: :smiley:

Actually, there is a bowling alley in Paragon-- the “blu-O Rhythm and Bowl” on the top floor, next to the theater. It’s a really nice one, too.

Siam Sam said everything I was going to say about scams, and he’s much more of an expert than I am.

Since you only have Saturday free, you could do something like this:

  1. Head up to Chatuchak Market early in the AM (you can take the MRT/subway to Kamphaeng Phet, or the Skytrain to Mo Chit). It’s worth seeing, and we like it much better first thing in the AM while it’s cool and before it gets too crowded. You may want to try the coconut ice cream or other treats there, if you’re amenable to the idea of street food.

  2. Grand Palace/Temple of the Emerald Buddha/Wat Po.

  3. Jim Thompson House.

I don’t know if you can fit all of those into one day, but those would be my top picks. Shopping centers, movies, and such you can do in the evenings (as long as you’re not getting off work too late). (On rereading, ditto what Siam Sam said, and he’s far more expert than me!)

Since you’re staying at the Metropolitan, I’ll point out that their restaurant, Cy’an, is REALLY good. If you like high-end dining and are willing to pay a little more their tasting/set menu is a very cool experience (about 4300 baht or $150 with wine pairings, 3000 or $100 without, if I remember correctly-- we went there for our anniversary a couple weeks ago), but you should be able to have a really good dinner there within your $60 allowance. The Met Bar is also supposed to be nice: it’s a members-only bar, but is open to hotel guests as well.

Next door is the very tall Banyan Tree Hotel, which has a Moon Bar on top, where you can enjoy a cocktail, and a restaurant called Vertigo. Both are also really pricy by Bangkok standards, but the view can’t be beat.

By Golly, that’s right! It’s a bit hidden, so I never think about it. Plus I don’t bowl. But I suspect the OP can go bowling in Austin.

Vertigo would be a nice stop. Be warned: Dress code there. But a great view. And while up there, you can reflect on the fact that the Banyan Tree is the site of the annual Vertical Marathon every September, with the proceeds going to the Red Cross’ AIDS program. That’s right, once a year, a mass of humanity runs from the ground floor up to the top in the stairs.