I put this in GQ because I thought it to be more technical.
I have an acoustic guitar, and I just put new strings on it. (Elixir, medium).
First problem is the new strings (I only put 3 on there, my first 3 were fine. The three I put on were E, A, and D.) they resonate really loudly. louder than my higher strings, and at that pitch, it’s really not harmonious.
Second problem is that when I use my capo, the D string isn’t pressed down all the way, unless I pull the capo wider (it is just a standard spring capo, not sure of brand). Is there a way I can make sure that the D string is fully down without having to practically pull my capo apart trying to get it to clamp on enough?
Thanks in advance
Well I can address this - but not technically. You need to change all your strings at once. The only time I do a single change is if I break a string while playing, and I don’t want to restring my whole guitar.
The strings’ sound changes over time, becoming less bright and more … something. So when you have new strings mixed with old strings - you get sort of a cacophany of old and new sound.
I hope that’s helpful - since my general answer is just change all your strings at one time.
I’m having a little bit of difficulty picturing your capo to help you with this. I have a standard capo that just clamps down on the frets. Maybe another Doper can help you out. (Or could you post a link to a picture of your capo)?
I agree with Mr. Wiggen here: change them all at once, especially if they’re steel strings. Nylon isn’t as much of an issue. As for the capo, it sounds like you might have issues with the action or a bent neck…is that a possibility?
I’ll third the suggestion to change the rest of the strings. Accumulated finger oils and corrosion seem to dampen the overtones (high frequency modes) of the strings, thus creating a “softer” sound over time. New strings are a lot louder than old ones. I’d especially note that the G string is wrapped like the three lower strings you already changed, and is just as susceptible to corrosion.
As an aside, I also wonder if the steel in the strings doesn’t crystallize a little from the action of playing the guitar (like what happens when you bend a paper clip repeatedly), contributing to the sound changes.
My guitar teacher calls the new string sound “crunchy”.
Also, I have nylon strings on my 3 top strings. The reason I didn’t change them is because, well, they’re nylon. Should I just suck it up and put the steel ones on?
I should mention that this is a “classical” guitar. It doesnt have pegs that the strings wind around, it has a wheel, I guess you could call it that, that the string is wound around.
Well since you have a classical guitar, you should stick with nylons - but definately change them. You shouldn’t use steel.
As for your capo - I think part of the problem may be that you have a classical guitar. They tend to have a wider neck and maybe your capo just can’t handle it. A friend of mine actually has one of these, and it’s always seemed a little cheap and flimsy compared to mine. So maybe you’re gonna have to update.
Not only that, but you might have a problem if you’re using half steel and half nylon on a classical guitar. The neck is designed to take a certain amount of stress. As such, the neck may have warped with this frankenstein mix of strings on it, especially with medium strings.
(I’m not sure, is there a truss rod on classical guitars?)
I assume the Elixirs are steel strings. Your guitar is either made for steel strings or made for nylon strings. Put a full set of the right type on it. Nylon strings don’t project on a steel-string guitar. Steel strings ruin a nylon-string guitar (they can literally pull it apart).
Different guitars have different neck curvatures (across the width). The capo needs to have the same curvature in order to work properly. Generally you can check this by gently laying the string-touching surface of the capo along a fret (it’s OK of the strings are installed, but it needs to be either none of the strings or all of them – and it should be a matched set of strings), and looking closely for any gaps. In order to do this with your Kyser, you’ll have to get the spring tension out of the picture, otherwise the rubber pad will deform and skew the results. Find a way to wire it open or remove the spring. There should be no gaps, and it should be clear that the capo follows the curvature of the neck/fret. If this is not the case, find a capo that fits the guitar properly.
Apply the capo as close to the fret (towards the soundhole/away from the nut) as possible. It’s often recommended to have the capo duplicate the angle of the bridge, which would be nearly kissing the fret on the bass E string and maybe 1/8" away from it on the treble E string. This is fine, but I’ve also had good results by placing it parallel to the fret, kissing it on all six strings.
A lot of people love their Kyser capos, but I have a strong preference for Schubb capos. You might want to try one of those. Be sure it matches the guitar, I know Schubb makes them with different curvatures.
If those Elixirs are steel, GET THEM OFF THAT GUITAR. THEY WILL RIP IT APART. I’M NOT KIDDING!
Classical guitars have flat necks. I’ll bet dollars to donuts that your capo is curved. If that’s the case, it will have a gap in the center, right where your D string is. Get a capo designed for a classical guitar.
I have that same Kyser capo and, yes, it’s meant for regular steel string guitar.
My thoughts echo those of the members who posted replies already. The classical guitar has a wide, flat neck and the capo is not suited for it.
The thickest four on those Elixers are steel wrapped in bronze (most likely) or a similar alloy. Listen to this warning. Those steel strings are stronger and pull MUCH more tension when in tune than the nylons. A guitar is designed to withstand tension below a certain maximum.
There is an equation for sound frequency: f = (1/2L) * (T/mu)^0.5
where: f = frequency, L = string length, T = string tension, mu = mass per unit length of string.
Nylon strings have a density of roughly 1.5 g/cm^3 while the steel strings have a density of about 8 g/cm^3 even without a bronze coil wrapping meaning a MUCH higher tension in the steel strings because density is proportional to the mass per unit length (which is a linear density). Hence, a steel string requires higher tension to achieve the same frequency as its nylon counterpart.
As others have said get the steel strings off right away. Guitars built for nylon strings do not have a truss rod to strengthen the neck. Putting steel strings on a guitar built for nylons strings will either warp the neck, pull the neck joint away from the body or snap the neck. All bad things.
Thanks for all the replies. Let me start by saying that I found this guitar in our living room. It belonged to my grandfather or uncle. When I found it, it had steel strings for E, A and D strings. Since it is so old, I decided to change it, and since it already had steel strings on them , thats what i replaced them with.
They may not have been steel strings. Typically on a classical guitar, the treble strings are clear nylon and the bass strings are nylon wrapped in metal. Here’s a site that should have all the info you need.