Further research shows the original engine was definately non-interference, but as I mentioned it was replaced and I don’t know for sure that the new engine is. However, when I did start to crank it it would “catch” but not hold idle. I did not hear any valve chatter so I doubt that there is valve damage. I did make sure the crank and cam were perfectly alligned. This is very frustrating.
If it’s a 2.5 engine, it is interference, but not in the typical way. The valves don’t hit the pistons, but the intake and exhaust valves, which have separate camshafts, can hit each other if the camshafts get out of synch.
Subaru timing belt tensioners are tricky to deal with. It’s not out of the question that a tensioner problem caused the premature failure of the belt, nor that a tensioner problem is causing your current situation.
That said, this–when I did start to crank it it would “catch” but not hold idle–suggests a problem with ignition or fuel management, likely related to the electronic control system. Check very carefully for any electrical connections accidentally left unplugged, and then any misalignment or other problem with a crank sensor or cam sensor.
Can we get a few things straight? You replaced the timing belt yourself and immediately after that it wouldn’t start? If this is correct, we don’t have to consider theories such as the cat. convertor being clogged. If the crank and cam are perfectly alligned but won’t start, they’re probably alligned 360° off. Remember, the camshaft turns twice for every revolution of the crankshaft.
I’ve replaced about a dozen timing belts, but only on Ford 2.3 liter engines. Some things you may want to check:
-
If either the cam or distributor sprocket is off just one tooth (relative to the crank position), it will not run properly, and a timing adjustment may not correct it. Make sure these are correct. And the only way to do it is through visual inspection at TDC.
-
If the belt was not tensioned properly, then a sprocket could have slipped a tooth upon start up. Again, check the sprocket positions at TDC.
Here’s a tip: After installing the belt, turn over the engine three or four times by hand using a ratchet on the crank pulley. Position to TDC then re-check sprocket positions.
Just to reiterate a few things, You never want a used timing belt or chain. They stretch during their lifetime, and when you replace it, you want to get a brand new one.
When replacing a timing belt/chain, you want to make sure both the crankshaft and camshaft(s) are at the TDC (top dead center) positions. On older engines, there are synchronization dots on both gears, so that you can line them up.
When the timing belt/chain breaks or slips a tooth, it’s very common for valves to be bent or broken (this happened to me on both a dodge 360 and a ford 302. I had to have my heads rebuilt before they would run again).
Get it checked out.
To x-ray:
Yes, it wouldn’t start immediately after changing the timing belt so the other possiblities are excluded. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to double check all the helpful solutions and if that doesn’t work have it towed to a mechanic. I am not all that great with engines but have learned alot from my father in law who is a master mechanic. Unfortunately, he is not here and is nearly deaf so I can’t call him on the phone.
Tonight I will have to write an email to Subaru. This is extremely frustrating, particularly given the fact I bought the car so I could reliably travel in bad weather and for the first time since I got it three years ago tomorrow is the first time it will snow enough to matter and I will be stuck driving my Camaro, that I won for 5 dollars in a raffle. Or just stay home. We’ll see if we really get the 18 inches of snow they are predicting.