Airport Stories: Whole Lotta Pre-Flighting Goin' On

So you want to fly a different airplane…?

Start with the pre-flight briefing, a.k.a. ground school. Flight is not a natural occupation of human beings and as a result human flyers must devote time and effort to formal education and practice. And while it is true that many of the early pioneers of aviation were self-taught, it should also be remembered that a lot of them died flying, and those that didn’t, such as the Wright brothers and Igor Sikorsky, spent years, even decades in slow, careful pursuit of knowledge. Damn few people have that sort of patience.

So, if you want to learn to fly resign yourself early to the idea that you will have a certain amount of book learning. You will also have to practice, review, and re-learn on a regular basis.

I received about 20 pages of stuff via e-mail prior to my first lesson. One item was an abridged version of the pilot handbook for the Bellanca Citabria Model 7ECA, which was the variety of airplane I’d be training in for my tailwheel endorsement (more on that “endorsement” thing in a minute). This contained important information such as approved flight conditions, important airspeeds, engine/instrumentation/engine limits, fuel and oil requirements, emergency procedures, pre-flight checklist, normal procedures, and weight and balance information. There was information about regulations pertaining specifically to tailwheel airplanes (there are just a few), directions on how to obtain information on transitioning from tricycle gear airplanes (the current standard) to taildraggers from the FAA (on line, these days), and the course syllabus.

Oh, and the word “endorsement” - without getting too much into jargon, an endorsement is not something that appears on your license itself, but rather it’s an entry in your log book that an instructor at some point certifies that you have had sufficient training in an area to be considered competant. The trick, of course, is convincing that instructor person that you do, indeed, have the goods. Endorsements are also needed for “complex” airplanes (retractable gear and in-flight adjustable props), or high performance airplanes (over 200 hp engines). They are for areas of skill and knowledge that do require some training, but not to the extent that, say, earning an instrument flight rating or multi-engine rating do. Ratings appear on your license, endorsements stay in the back of your logbook.

Anyhow, I started with the transition training materials, which were about six pages, and covered key differences between the landing gear I learned on and the landing gear I was going to learn to land on. Interesting quote from the first paragraph: “Tailwheel airplanes are not necessarily more difficult to takeoff, land, and/or taxi than tricylce gear airplanes; in fact under certain conditions, they may even handle with less difficulty.” Which sort of answers the question of why people continue to build new taildraggers - in addition to the fun and amusement aspect, they do serve specific needs in specific niches.

Since it’s on the ground these airplanes handle differently than the usual that is largely what both the background info and the training is all about. First there is a discussion of how to taxi a taildragger. That is, how to drive it around on the ground as opposed to flying it through the air. Due to where the center of gravity is located on a taildragger relative to the wheels there is a certain instability present - it always has an urge to swap ends with itself, swinging around in a tight, tipping circle that may leave the rear-end proceeding first and the front end trailing, possibly also with damage to the wings if the tipping is severe enough to caught the airplane structure (other than the wheels) to impact the ground. This may sound alarming, but clearly the situation is managable since folks fly taildraggers every day of the year all over the world mostly without incident. It’s a tendency, not a mandate. Sort of like how SUV’s are more prone to tip over than a low-slung sports car - driven properly, you don’t tip. It does mean that if you are at the controls you must pay attention when moving about on the ground to a greater degree than with tricycle gear airplanes.

In fact, what was told to me years ago and confirmed by recent discussion with folks more experienced than me in these matters is worth repeating. When in a taildragger you must pay the same attention and care to ground operations as when you are flying, and it helps to consider it a matter of flying even when you’re entirely on the ground. Because of the instability of traildragger gear they are much more affected by wind and the controls on the wings and tail must be used to control those effects whereas on tricycle gear airplanes the breeze must be quite brisk and gusty to pose a real ground navigation hazard. Consider yourself to be in flight from the moment you get in until the time you shut down the engine, get out, and secure the airplane.

Anyhow, there was a bunch more stuff about take-offs and landings, which I won’t bore you with right now.

Next up was reviewing the syllabus. This really impressed me - not every civilian flight school uses syllabi, although it’s becoming much more common. Many that are used are sketchy at best, and unevenly applied. This school not only lays things out well, they actually use the syllabus to make sure everything is covered in a reasonably methodical manner.

The course is divided into three parts - introduction to tailwheel airplanes, advanced tailwheel operations, and tailwheel proficiency - crosswind operations.

We’ll start with “lesson one” (which often turns into several sessions or lessons, but more on that later). It occassionally surprises people, but the first 30 minutes to an hour, maybe even more, of learning to do a new sort of flying usually involves no flying at all - it’s classroom and ground time. The classroom time, in this case, was a one-on-one discussion of handling characteristics of taildraggers in general and of this particular airplane specifically. This includes not only normal operations, but also some basic consideration of emergencies such as best glide speed, aborting of landings, and so forth.

Also important was agreement on how to exchange control of the airplane between instructor and student, even more important in this airplane than some others. Many, if not most, modern airplanes have side to side seating so it’s relatively easy to have some idea of what the person sitting next to you is doing. Citabrias have tandem seating, that is, one person behind the other. My instructor in this airplane sees the back of my head, not what my hands and feet are doing. For that matter, the instructor’s view of most of the instrument panel (rather minimal to begin with ) is also blocked by the student in front of him/her. Even with headsets and intercoms, communication requires cooperation here - in the days before such items were common instructors and students did a LOT OF SHOUTING and, in the more powerful airplanes, worked out non-verbal signals before getting into the airplane and starting it up. (One gnarly old instructor told me that in the old days when he need a student to relinquish the controls he’d whack them on the back of the head as a signal. This isn’t as bad as it sounds - it was a sort of aircraft where folks usually wore helmets) It’s important that, when control needs to be shifted between pilots, the exchange is done quickly and surely.

After the classroom pre-flight briefing it was on to the airplane. No, we still weren’t flying yet. Have I mentioned that aviation requires patience? It was time to pre-flight the airplane. Now, pre-flighting is something I’ve been doing for a decade now, but every airplane has it’s unique characteristics and quirks. Keep in mind as well that there are models of airplanes out there with histories of a half century (sometimes longer) and thus a vast accumulated knowledge of Things to Look Out For. The Citabria isn’t quite that old, but it’s still been around awhile. Initial pre-flight not only included standard procedures common to all airplanes (and when you’re in a learning situation your pre-flight technique is observed and sometimes critiqued, no matter how experienced you may be in other aircraft) but also involved making sure I knew where everything was on that airplane down to where the spare seat cushion for short folks was kept (since I’m a shorty, it turns out I needed to use it). The Citabria is also a wood-wing aircraft with a fabric covering, so the was also a brief discussion of what is and isn’t normal in such airplanes and how to do a reasonable exterior inspection of same. Preflight also included how the heck to get up to the fuel tanks, which are accessed from the top of the wings. Obviously, a full grown human attempting to scale the exterior of a fabric airplane is not a good idea - it’s not a good idea even on metal-skinned airplanes for that matter, as the load-carrying capacity of most surfaces is well under the weight of the average human being. If there aren’t steps built into the side of the thing (there aren’t on the Citabria) and you can’t climb the wing struts (not a good idea unless the manual specifically says it’s OK - not a common thing) then that means finding a ladder. A good operation will have one readily to hand (a really good operation has at least on in the hangar and keeps another slung on the back of the fuel truck.

Here, briefly and with few digressions, is my standard pre-flight (from memory, so there might be one or two minor ommissions):

Get in the cockpit. Make sure all switches and power are off (if something has been left on you might have a problem). Make sure no one has been messing with/damaging the airplane - vandalism can happen, and has happened to airplanes I intended to fly. Check for required documents such as registration and airworthiness certificates, weight and balance information specific to that airplane, pilot manual or operating handbook, and anything else required on that aircraft - if any of that is missing you can’t legally fly. Check fuel levels. On some airplanes you need to tune the master switch on and use some battery power to check those gauges, lights, and other equipment. This is particularly important for night flights and other conditions, but the Citabria is strictly a fair-weather airplane and I have no intention of using it at night (at this point). Extend flaps - if the airplane has flaps (some don’t). Regardless, before you leave the cockpit to finish the preflight make sure EVERYTHING is turned off.

Right main gear - that’s the leg, wheel, and brakes. The strut/leg attachments should all be secure and all hardware intact and in place. Check for leaking brake fluid , damage to brake assembly, and stuff like weeds caught up in gear. Remove grass, hay, and other plant material. Check the tires for wear - you should be able to see tread. Tires should be round, not half-deflated. Also check for cuts, scrapes, and abrasions on the rubber. Exposure to spilled fuel can cause discoloration, usually in circular and oval patterns that can indicate weakened tires that may blow out at touch-down. In winter, check for ice, slush, and snow caught up in the wheel - that’s a bad thing, you have to get that out of there before you go anywhere.

Right wing - There is typically a fuel sump at the inner margin of the wing, allowing you to take a fuel sample and check for purity. The typical avgas is 100LL which, at least in the US, is dyed blue. The intensity of the color varies, but it needs to be blue, and it needs to smell like gas or, if you speak British English, like petrol (which is basically what it is). If it’s not blue, more speicifically if it’s clear, and if it smells like kerosene, then someone put jet fuel in your piston engine and you do NOT want to start that baby up! Bad Things could happen. (There are red and green varieties of avgas, but they are extremely rare these days, so rare that if someone is using them they’ll probably warn you before you start the preflight). There should be no grit, no floaties, no bubbles. If there are clear bubbles it’s almost certainly water and needs to be dealt with prior to flight, but I won’t discuss how to handle that right now.

If the airplane has flaps make sure they extended properly and all joints and hinges are as they should be. That means check every hinge for a full hinge pin. Every nut and bolt - there should be at least two threads showing past every bolt even on non-critial areas. Critical areas such as flight controls - including flaps, ailerons, elevator, rudder, and such - should be examined for corrosion, all safety wires should be in place, and if there aren’t safety wires then there should be tamper/vibration indicating paint over the nuts and bolts. The same drill applies to the ailerons: all hinges and hardware intact, able to move freely, free of obstructions, safety wires in place. If you move the aileron to get a better view of the hardware hold onto it - a gust of wind can pinch the dickens out of your finger if it gets caught in a moving part. Actually, it can cut the living crap out of your fingers/hands if you’re dealing with metal parts. Check the underside of the wing for damage - go ahead and touch if you need to. If it’s a low wing, get down under it to look - you have to get down there to check out the wheels and fuel anyhow. Moving around the wing, check the wing tips for damage. Damage can occur when moving in and out of hangars, around other airplanes, or a variety of other ways. Wingtips can have minor scrapes and cracks, but a break (or a tear in ragwings) must be looked at by a mechanic because the impact may have caused hidden damage. Fiberglass wingtip cracks may have a tiny hole drilled at the end of the crack - this acts to relieve stresses and prevent the crack from propagating. If the crack has continued past the hole it’s time to see a mechanic again because the stop-drilling didn’t work. If there are lights on the wingtips check to make sure their globes are intact. Walk along the leading edge of the wing, and feel it as well, checking for damage. Damage on the leading edge is serious - while most airplanes do acquire some cosmetic damage over time that leading edge should be straight, smooth, and have only the most minor of dents or abrasions. Do not fly a ragwing with a tear on the leading edge, no matter how small. That needs to be taken care of immediately. There should be no play between struts, wings, and fuselage - go ahead and grab them. For goodness sakes, these things have to support a ton or more of weight in flight, if they can’t handle a grab and a tug you don’t want to fly in this machine. All connections should be solid.

Most fuel tanks are in the wings, and there’s a gas cap on the top of the wing. This is easily accesible in low wings - uncap, look in the tanks to confirm that the fuel gauges and reality are in agreement, then replace the cap. Be sure the cap is secure - if it’s loose it can come off in flight, after which the low pressure area above the wing will literally suck the fuel right out of the tank. I’ve seen it happen - only takes a minute or two to completely empty 20 or 30 gallons. So check and double check those caps! If it’s a high wing and you need a ladder, get a ladder, get up it, and do the same thing. Many high wing airplane owners have dipsticks that allow you to measure the fuel in those tanks even if you can’t get a direct view - if you don’t know how to use one, ask. While you’re up there, checking the gas on your highwing, take a look at the top of the wing - look for rents, tears, dents, and that the parts that should be straight are straight. Airplane wings are symmetrical - if the right and left don’t match you have a problem and probably shouldn’t be flying that airplane until it’s fixed.

Engine compartment and nose Check the oil. The checklist and manual will have the required amount. Actually, about half the time the correct amounts are also marked on the cowling door or otherwise nearby as well. When replacing the dipstick do NOT crank that sucker down as a demonstration of your gorilla-like physical prowess - you do that and the next person may not be able to get it off, or you may damage the filler tube. Firm, not tight. Check the bottom of the engine compartment for leaks of oil, fuel, or other fluids. I usually stick my hand in and make sure things like the magnetos, air filter, and so forth are firmly seated. This also enables me to check for drips and leaks that are less obvious. All safety wiring should be intact. There should be no signs of critters or nest-building inside your engine cowling - and yes, it does happen, even to airplanes flown frequently. Wipe your hands - if they didn’t get a little dirty you probably didn’t do it right. Yep, I usually carry a paper towel or kleenex out with me to preflight, some folks use wetwipes or babywipes. Crouch down - there’s usually another fuel sump underneath the engine, so take a sample and check it.

If this is a nosewheel airplane you need to check that wheel out as well. This wheel won’t have a brake line, but it probably will have an air/oil shock aborber that needs to be properly inflated. Otherwise, the same criteria regarding wheel integrity applies as before.

Get back up on your feet. Look at the prop. No, not the front, look at the back of the prop, and the edges. There will be abrasion and nicks on the prop but these should be tiny. Anything larger than a half centimeter on the edge of the blades bears a closer look and may need “dressing”. This involves somehow with knowledge and skill using a file to smooth out the defect and inspect the prop for cracks. If you find a crack do not fly - a crack can result in losing part of a prop blade and that is a scary ride at best, and can become lethal if not handled quickly and properly. The back of the prop will have scratches, but they should be surface damage - if they have any depth get the thing looked at before flight.

Check the air intake areas on the front for obstruction, debris, etc. In winter, it’s the ice and snow check again. On some planes you can also reach in and check the alternator belt for security from the front.

By the way - all this mucking around with the front of the airplane and the prop is why you make sure the power is off and eveything is shut down. If the prop is turning and the magnetos aren’t grounded you are generating a spark in the engine, and it doesn’t take much fuel to make it fire. Unsecured props have been known to start after a small bump. It’s rare, but it has happened. So - master switch off, magnetos off (grounded), throttle all the way back, mixture all the way back. Go ahead and double check at any time. I make it a rule I don’t touch the prop unless the keys are in my pocket. You can’t be too careful with this - remember that prop pulls the airplane and you off the ground in defiance of gravity and continues to pull you at a pretty good clip. That’s a lot of force and power. Even if that prop only swings through a half turn and stops, that’s still enough force to split your skull and kill you if it hits you on the head. Even if it doesn’t hit you on the head, it can break or sever fingers and arms. The master off cuts power to the starter. The magnetos ground wire should prevent sparks. The throttle and mixture back cuts off the fuel and air going to the engine. That’s several ways of stopping the engine/prop from turning over, so even if you’ve got a failure - say, the magneto grounding wire is broken - you’ve got several back ups to help keep you safe. Still pretend that big meat slicer up front wants to cause you grievious bodily harm - because it’s not entirely pretend. Even if it’s not moving it’s still a hard slab of metal or wood with sharp edges - walking into one by accident can result in some pretty nasty gashes, a trip to the hospital, and a nice doctor sewing you up. I have a friend who had to have his nose re-attached after he walked into a stopped prop in a dark hangar. Don’t ever argue with an airplane propellor - you will lose.

On some airplanes you also have things like static ports to check - if there is one it’ll be marked, and you don’t touch it, at least not the opening itself. Just make sure there’s nothing over it like a leaf or danelion fluff Landing lights and other equipment that may be in the front area should also be checked.

Left wing - just like the right wing, but in reverse. I start with the fuel tanks, then leading edge, wingtip, ailerons, flaps, fuel sump, etc. One of the two wings will have a “pitot” tube, which is an air intake for some of your instrumentation. Some have it on the left, some on the right. Make sure there’s nothing in the hole or blocking it.

Left gear - just like the other one.

Left Fuselage - you need to check for damage, as usual. If you’re in a metal airplane and the skin over the fuselage is wrinkled the airplane has been overstressed, subjected to excessive g-forces. You may not want to fly it, as the structural integrity may be compromised and it really ruins your day to have major components such as a wing or tail snap off while in flight. This sort of damage can occur almost anywhere, but it most commonly occurs towards the back end. On cloth planes you can feel the underlying structure, which should be smooth and without breaks. Various antennae are typically mounted on the fuselage - these can be on top or underneath. They should be secure and firmly seated, no wobbles. If there are other items you should look for they’ll be mentioned in the manual.

Tail - very important part of the airplane. Remember, airplanes are symmetrical - the left and right parts of the tail should match. There may be a trim tab - a small flange of metal or plastic installed to balance the forces acting on the airplane - but that should be the only exception. All tail parts should, again, be free of obstructions, all hardware secure and safety-wired. Tail surfaces need to be free of damage. If this is a taildragger the tailwheel will, of course, be under the tail. Springs, shocks, and hardware should be intact, without cracks or breaks (that can happen in springs), safety-wired, and free of debris. Tailwheels may not always be pneumatic - some of them are solid. Some taildraggers do not have a third wheel, they have a metal skid instead. In other words, they really do drag their tails along the ground. Needless to say, such a skid will show significant wear from friction against the ground, but it should still be firmly attached with no wobblies. If there are bracing wires on the tail (or on the wing, for that matter) they need to be checked for corrosion and fraying. You check for fraying by touch - you gently run your fingers over the wires, or better yet, use a soft cloth. Frays will snag the cloth (or your fingers) before they’re visible. If you can see a fray don’t fly!

Right Fuselage - just like the left. At which point you’re back where you started. Feel free to go back and double check anything at that point.

Yes, I really do that whole thing before every flight. With an airplane I’m unfamillar with the first pre-flight can take 40 minutes. More typically, it’s about 15-20.

Yes, I really have found Bad Things during preflights. On one occassion, I found something that probably would have killed me had I taken off without spotting it. On other occassions I’ve found things that, while probably not lethal, would have made for a very un-fun ride.

That said, the vast, overwhelming majority of the time I don’t find anything to turn a “go” into a “no-go” on preflight. If you pre-flight well, then when you do take off it’s with the assurance that you have already done quite a bit to eliminate or reduce problems.

I also consider checking the weather part of pre-flighting, but I’ll talk about that more later. Aside from that, there are only two more things I do before getting in and starting the engine.

First thing is, I go to the Little Pilot’s Room and pee, even if I don’t feel an urgent need. It’s simple, really - trying to land an airplane with your legs crossed and your bladder about to explode is a small slice of hell, it’s just not fun.

Second thing - full fuel tanks. Just a standard policy with me - unless I have a good reason not to fill the tanks, I fill them up. The only time an airplane has too much fuel is when it’s on fire (and we try very hard to avoid that circumstance, m’okay?).

Next time, I’ll be able to talk about actual flying. Really. Promise.

I’ve been enjoying your Taildragging saga Broomstick, partly because I’ve been semi-looking for the same thing. I’m currentlyworking on my commercial, then Multi-IFR, but I’d like to finish school with a taildragger, simply because I can go back to my old gliding place as a tow-pilot (I used to fly gliders), and build some hours on their Citabria for cheap as free, or go back to the Air Cadets and see if I can get on flying their Scouts. Plus, with many of the bush operations up north stilll using taildraggers, it gives me a bit of an edge over my competition. With any luck, after school’s finished (college aviation program) I’m hoping to get my float rating and/or learn some cropdusting.

Anyhoo, back to the taildragging lessons, I ended up at a place that does taildragger lessons in a J-4… We were launching hot-air balloons (my summer job) from their airstrip (not windy enough to fly from the city). So I talked to the guy and took a look around, and the place seemed nice enough, but obviously, I haven’t signed up for anything yet. Pretty cool place actually, they run an ultralight school out of the strip, and I think it’s decently close to my house… It’s somewhere to the west of the city, and I live on the NW edge. Unfortunately, I don’t know it’s actual address, and it’s not in the CFS, nor have I noticed it from the air.

I still intend to look around more, but there seem to be very few options for learning taildraggers in Southern Ontario, mainly centred around soaring associations.

Keep it up, it’s educational for me.