Alaska vacation wisdom?

I asked this board in a previous thread for wisdom about a Grand Canyon trip introduced as this:

The experiences shared were very helpful, and having just finished that trip (it was great!) I return to the well asking for experiences traveling regarding a next on the list: Alaska.

Hoping to have this one include the whole family. My wife is not a camping or hiking person. So a Wildland Trekking organized backpacking trip (they ran the Rim to Rim we did) that I’d do if it was just me is out. But neither of us have ever done a cruise ship and the concept of that is not intrinsically appealing.

Looking for maybe five to seven days there? But flexible. I’m fantasizing good challenging long day hikes for the group up for it while others have less physically demanding outings.

Smaller ship cruises? National Geographic sponsors several …

What collective wisdom can I glean from the TMs on this possible trip to be?

How much should I expect to drop per? (My wife and me, four adult kids, and we might consider inviting the two significant but not married others … but don’t want to deplete retirement funds too fast.)

What portion of Alaska is more must do?

Thanks for the ignorance reduction in advance.

Try to find a cruise that goes into Glacier Bay National Park. It is spectacular. The Park Service limits the number of ships that can enter the bay.

Two years ago the extended family went on a National Geographic (Lindbland) cruise in Alaska. We did this one, from Juneau to Sitka on the Sea Bird.

If you and your family would be excited about seeing humpback and orca whales, various pinnipeds, more bald eagles than you can count, and giant slugs, then this would be a good trip.

The anecdote I use to describe this is at one point while we were traveling the watch officer called over the ship wide PA that there were orcas off the port side. Every single person on the ship, passengers and crew, dropped what they were doing and came out on deck to see the orcas. If your family would rush up to see some fins sticking out of the water a few hundred feet away, and be excited about it, then a Nat Geo cruise might be good. If that just sounds stupid, then pick something else.

We all thoroughly enjoyed it, and I’ve decided (and am only joking a little bit) that when I retire I’m going to sell my condo and use the money to go on one or two of these cruises a year.

The ship was I think 52 passengers, and maybe 30 officers and crew, so a vastly different experience than a giant cruise ship. The food was good, the beer was free, and the whole crew seemed genuinely happy to have us as guests. I think they were all from Vernal, Utah.

There are various excursions on most days, and often choices about exactly what you do, such as easy hike/hard hike, bike tour/distillery, kayak/hike, etc. Often there is opportunity to do several of the choices at each outing.

I can go on about this far longer than even my normal too verbose posts, so I’ll (mostly) stop here, but I can answer any questions.

The biggest risk I see, is that if you go, and like it, you’ll have to sign up in summers as a ship’s doctor, and then you can lead tour groups, drive a Zodiac, get paid for it, and not have to clean the guest rooms or wait tables like the hospitality crew.

In a few weeks we’re going on this land tour, and if there’s any interest I can report back.

(All of this is courtesy my mother-in-law!)

@Chefguy lived there for years and may have some insight.

My experience is limited to one cruise. So not much.

IMO there is very little of Alaska that isn’t wilderness. So if wilderness hiking, camping, etc. is off the family list, you’re sorta stuck.

and there is no other way to get to Glacier Bay. You might want to read some of John Muir ( mostly free books ).

Alaska is big so going between areas takes time.
We took the Intercoastal cruise from Seattle then went back for 5 weeks later by car

I felt Denali park was not great - trucking around in an old school bus not on but you can’t drive in.

Taking a flight to and landing on a glacier via Talkeetna Air Taxi was wonderful.

Not sure of your schedule but if you can go on a Lulubelle day cruise is it spectacular.
The road down is fantastic and the Valdez Exxon site is quite surprising - it is pristine…even very sensitive sea otters breed in the bay.
The whole Kenai Penisula is terrific.

Born and raised, actually. Left when I was 20 and went back when I was 50 and lived there another eleven years. My wife and I traveled Alaska extensively, but I have never been on a cruise so can’t advise on that. I’ve heard that Glacier is a good bet, though. There are some great day trips out of Anchorage than can lead to some wonderful hikes, and renting a car to do this would be my recommendation for a one-week stay. If you want recommendations on those, let me know.

If more adventurous, I’d recommend Katmai, although taking a family there could be very expensive as you have to be flown in by float plane.

Definitely report back!

Thanks for the information!

Where to start?

First, investigate the cruises and tours. It shouldn’t be hard to find information. The only thing I can tell you first-hand is that none of my friends or family who have taken a cruise has ever said they were disappointed. Some (most?) of the cruise-line packages include a segment of travel by rail (fantastic views!) and possibly a bus tour of Denali National Park.

Such bus tours may sound dull or superficial, but they’re surprisingly fun. The guides are very informative and entertaining; the views are spectacular; and it takes barely any luck at all to get some great wildlife sightings.

On the other hand, they won’t take you nearly as far into the park as previously. The road fell off the mountain part way in.

I will have to take issue with LSLGuy’s “IMO there is very little of Alaska that isn’t wilderness.” True, there is one heck of a lot of wilderness, but there’s also a lot that’s only - how shall I put it? - wilderness adjacent. Someone who isn’t fond of the back country can still find a lot to do.

There are many remote destinations that are incredible: Katmai (as Chefguy mentioned) the island of Kodiak, the Southeast Panhandle, remote fishing lodges, lots of others. But with a limit to your time, and some differences in your preferences, possibly you’d enjoy the areas on the road system.

Fly into Anchorage. Rent a car or van. Let the hikers choose among day hikes from easy to arduous, while others visit the museum, the tourist shops and the restaurants.

Drive down to Seward, watching for beluga whales (or a bore tide) while you skirt Turnagain Arm (also keeping eyes on the cliffs above for Dall sheep). Watch for moose anywhere you drive.

In Seward pick from a number of day-cruise operators. Anything from a three hour tour (Don’t say it !) to an all-day affair with a lunch stop on an island. Nearly all the visitors I’ve had have called this their favorite part of their trip.

You’ll see an assortment of critters, depending on luck: seals, sea lions, sheep and goats on the rocks above, humpbacks, orcas and other whales.

Lots of bird life - the puffins are favorite, of course, but there are so many others. Once my visitors were faster with their cameras than I was, and they got footage of an eagle flying right freakin’ over us, a salmon in its talons.

And of course watching glaciers calve. Why is it so fascinating to watch chunks of ice fall into water? I don’t know, but it is.

The Sea Life Center is definitely worth a visit, and could be another day when you split up and some go hiking, while some explore the Center and the rest of Seward.

There’s lots else on the Kenai Peninsula, but with Seward behind you (and limited time) you might head back to Anchorage with an eye toward the Mat-Su Valley the next day. But definitely take the little side trip to the Portage Glacier Visitor Center. The Center is mildly interesting, no great shakes. But the drive to it is stupendous, especially on a sunny day when the glaciers above the little valley look so strikingly blue.

Want to see a glacier up close? A day trip further north and east takes you to the Matanuska Glacier. There are guided tours (the safest way) and even the non-hikers in the group will want to do this. The beauty and strangeness of the glacier are beyond description.

The drive to get there is also pretty wild and includes a couple stretches on a twisting, curvy mountain road with a rock wall on one side and a 200-foot drop on the other. It’s not really scary in nice weather (though doing it in heavy snow took at least a year off my life).

Hatcher Pass, a state park in the mountains near Palmer, is a good destination for the next day. It has an interesting little historic site about the history of gold mining in that area. It’s quite well done actually. But the real lure is the abundance of hikes there, from easy rambles to rock-hopping challenges, with beauty everywhere and whistle pigs (hoary marmots) calling on every side of you.

Maybe before you go to Hatchers you can spend a couple/few hours on the Musk Ox farm or the Reindeer Ranch, both near Palmer. They’re tourist traps, but dang appealing anyway, especially (but not only) if you have kids along.

If you’re not sick of driving yet, you could head north to Denali National Park or even Fairbanks. I enjoy Fairbanks, but one visitor put it like this: “nice, but probably the least Alaskan thing we saw.” The city has a lot of history and a museum that is definitely worth a peek. But there’s little else that jumps out at you as being terribly different from a city anywhere in the U.S. And it’s an all-day drive just to get there.

Talkeetna, just a couple hours from Palmer, is generally understood to be what Cicely was based on in “Northern Exposure.” It’s a small town but has a few things worth seeing. The main reason you would go there, however, would be its airport, from which you could get a flight-seeing tour of Denali and the surrounding mountains. When my father visited, that was his favorite part.

I’m rather running on, I think. TLDR: there’s a wealth of interesting stuff to see and do, just in the small portion of the state that you can drive to. Renting a car and designing your own tour could be well worth it.

If anything that @Nyvaak has mentioned (or that approach in general) appeals to you, I’d strongly checking out the Milepost. It’s gravitated more to an online presence than to the print edition, but it provides more than you’d ever want to know about the subject.

Not running on at all!

How much time would be the minimum to make that not-cruise approach worthwhile?

So far I am seeing the National Geographic/Lindblad trips as most appealing? The Inside Passage one goes to Glacier Bay. Of course it is more time and more money …

Of the two less time ones, either that would be better?

Thanks!

By the way, when would you be likely to go? The weather in this part of Alaska is too variable to be predicted reliably, but there are certain trends. Our sunniest summer weather tends to be from mid-May to mid-June.

As mentioned, it’s variable. You could find that it rained without stop in those months, or that August and September were unusually clear. But that wouldn’t be my bet.

You might want to visit during late June, when the daylight lasts well into the night. It’s quite the experience.

Outdoors folks, though, might want to know that the mosquitoes are hellacious at that time of the summer. By the end of July they are fewer, and if you’re lucky may not even bother you in the daytime. Many people use bug dope, but Alaskan mosquitoes consider DEET a condiment. I wear long sleeves and a headnet. I look like a dork, but otherwise they make me insane.

A few years back, I stayed at Chena Hot Springs (https://chenahotsprings.com/) during the Aurora season. The high point of the stay was taking the Alaska Railroad (Best Alaska Train Trips | Alaska Railroad Tours & Vacations)
from Anchorage to Fairbanks.

The hot springs were OK, but the railroad was outstanding! You get a brochure describing what you are seeing along the way and there is a guide on board to point out wildlife and geological features. It’s great for people who can’t hike long distances and for kids who might have trouble sitting still in a car on a long trip. Highly, highly recommend you make time for a rail trip.

Late June ideally. Dependent on adult child grad school and another’s possible new job schedules.

You could do the itinerary I mentioned in a week, but I wouldn’t advise it. It would probably be rushed and tiring that way, and you wouldn’t have leisure to stop and enjoy random things or to linger over something you particularly liked. Ten days is the minimum I’d suggest for that. Anybody else got a time frame they’d suggest? I could be wrong.

As for whether to design your own tour versus the National Geographic / Lindblad trip, I really couldn’t say. I haven’t done the latter. It would be down to personal preference, I guess.

Have any Dopers done that particular cruise? What do you think?

You’ve covered much of what I would recommend, so thanks for that. Hatcher Pass has a lot of hiking trails and is home to Independence Mine, which is now partially restored and is part of the park system. Hatcher is probably my favorite place in Alaska, as I have a lot of childhood memories of family blueberry outings there. Even with the road being paved (a peeve of mine, as the place is now overrun with tourists), there are still breathtaking views from the top, great hiking trails, and the always beautiful Little Susitna River.

I always hesitate to recommend Denali. More often than not, the mountain is not visible. It creates its own weather and is usually obscured by clouds. The Denali Highway between Paxson and Cantwell offers beautiful scenery and good fishing.

I can’t recommend Matanuska Glacier highly enough. The tours are expensive, from what I understand. It used to be a flat fee to go there and then you were on your own. I suspect that tourists ruined that and now you have to have a guide.

A place that is usually overlooked (ha!) is Flattop, which is right outside of Anchorage. This sits above the Hillside residential area and is in Chugach State Park. There is a spectacular overlook of Anchorage, Cook Inlet, Sleeping Lady Mountain (Susitna), and on a clear day you can see Denali and the Alaska Range. From the parking lot there is a choice of hiking trails, one that becomes quite difficult in the later stages, but takes you to the top of Flattop, which is a rocky mesa with even more spectacular views. There is also an easy trail that winds back into the park toward Powerline Pass. You may see moose, lynx, ptarmigan, etc.

That sounds like a great time frame. The sun sets well after 11:00 o’clock at this latitude, and the twilight lasts all night. I’ve been driving after midnight and realized I forgot to turn my headlights on.

It will also fool you. Even now, I will sometimes be out hiking or whatnot, and get back to the car tired and hungry, saying, “let’s stop to get a bite to eat,” only to find everything’s closed and the town looks kinda deserted. What the heck happened?

Oh, it’s 11:30. Nevermind.

Oh my god, yes ! Picking blueberries up either side of Archangel Road is my concept of heaven. But, alas ! That place has gotten even more overrun than the rest of Hatchers, at least during blueberry season.

What do you think of DSeid’s question as to choosing between the kind of self-tour we recommend, versus the National Geographic / Lindblad cruise?

And throw in Uncruise, linked to from the Milepost site.

I would never recommend a cruise, but that’s a personal thing. I looked at the itinerary for that and it looked. . .boring. I’d rather hike around Girdwood, go to Crow Creek Mine, or hike up above the old gold mines in the hills than ever visit a dog kennel. Seeing wildlife in Denali Park is a crap shoot. We went to the far end of the park one year on our own and only saw one moose and two bears. I’m pretty sure they haven’t gotten that road fixed inside the park, but could be wrong on that. The Native Heritage Center in Anchorage is fine, but what do you do with the other 23 hours of the day? Southeast Alaska is dramatic, but hard to get to and lots of tourists to contend with. You can get a boat tour on your own out of Homer or Seward and the train ride down there from Anchorage is worthwhile (although I’d rather drive it so you can stop at pullouts). It’s the most scenic drive in Alaska.