It’s mostly the inductance of the house wiring that makes a difference. Long cable runs (and poor spur architectures) make for high inductance, which causes a big voltage spike when the circuit is switched off. This can often be seen as a big spark in the switch as the contacts arc over when opened. CFLs also have a large inrush current when turned on, which reduces the lifetime of older switches designed for incandescents.
The lifetime figures for CFLs are usually calculated for the bulb in a glass-side-up orientation (so the drive circuit in the base runs cooler), and with minimal on/off cycling. Plus a bit of optimism and massaging of the figures (see also “equivalent brightness” specs). Dangle one from the ceiling and switch the thing several times a day and the lifetime figure drops dramatically.
Early CFLs used to last longer, but now they’re a commodity and the usual race-to-the-bottom to compete on price means that they’re pretty much all low quality now.
I could go on all day about these hateful things. LEDs will eventually make them obsolete, though even these have issues to be solved. I like to use LEDs in place of < 40 W incandescents, and mains voltage halogens for anything brighter.