Henching is really the only way to move up the ladder to get access to all the labs and equipment that you need to be a true Mad Scientist, or evil genuis.
I really think you should look in to it. Think about it, after a few short years you’ll be up to your armpits in 1920’s style death rays
Electro has an outlet store on W.28th in NYC, or at least they did a month ago.
While it may help a little to know what you mean by “repeat-action”, Electro has made multi-shot death rays since 1927, North American and Rochester also have multi-shot as an option, and the Bowman, Tucker, and Barris, Carlin, & Barris I’ve mentioned before all can be used repeatedly before reloading.
Only 18% of all death ray buyers are either evil overlords or mad scientists. However, that number goes up to 70% of all users of 1920’s-style death rays.
Quite a few of the 1920’s death rays had bad recoils. You’d end up flying backwards around 5 or 6 feet every tme you fired one.
Most of the 1920’s death rays (Electro death rays, which have been on the market since 1913, are the only major exception) were difficult to power, as they didn’t work on either batteries or AC/DC (no Bon Scott jokes, please).
Very few of the early death rays were portable. You usually needed a room, making them inconvient in many cases.
There’s an extreme risk of electricution with 1920’s death rays if they get wet.
Because of the multiple (and often short-lived) companied that were the norm in that era, the parts are not standardized, making them hard to repair.
I had a link to a web ring for collectors of 1920’s style death rays, including tips on restoring an Arbogast Magnetrotron using parts from a Ryobi weed-eater, but I seem to have lost it.
Perhaps if you Google on “Death Ray Collectors” you could find it.
[Zebra’s Grandfather]
When I was a boy, we didn’t have any sort of fancy death rays. NO! WE had to shoot people with guns. And WE LIKED IT!
[/Zebra’s Grandfather]
[Zebra’s Dad]
You’ll get my death ray when you pry it from my cold dead fingers!
[/Zebra’s Dad]
Were you perhaps thinking of Edmund Scientific? They still exist, online at least, and are ready to equip your overzealous (but non-evil) quest for knowledge.
The 1920’s style death rays are , apparently, out of stock.
I’m surprised nobody has mentioned the classic 1958-style death ray, the Illudium Q-36 Explosive Space Modulator. Sleek lines, fuel efficient… unfortunately the detonator was stolen by a pesky rabbit, and the research grant funds dried up.
In regards to the 1920’s style “Death Ray” the hat is optional under package C only. However, the tin-foil hat instructions are as follows:
Go to the store and purchase one roll duct tape and one small roll of “Reynolds Wrap®”
Note: Generic brands of tin-foil are not acceptable. Duct tape can be any make or style.
Upon returning home, grab flashlight and go into closet for privacy.
Use tape measure to determine circumference of head.
Tear three sheets at double the above length.
Fold sheets in half Shiny side up (double protection).
Using duct tape as a fastener, mold one sheet to the crown, tape the other two sheets to each side.
Note: Remember that more krinkles in tin-foil provide extra protection and deflective properties.
Form brim to reflect rays up and away from head.
Apply second layer of duct tape for extra strength.
Repeat instructions for spare hat.
That should cover it, er I mean, provide protection.
If fact, when I pull the trigger on my Pheaton-Sprule “Magestic IV” disnitigrater the victim goes black and white (and slightly jerky), a large car filled with snappily-dressed mobsters drivers past (wise-cracking silently) and fills him fulla lead
Ah, this is in reference to the special heavy-duty capacitors which made the 1920’s style “Death Rays” the weapon of choice amongst evil geniuses and their henching minions everywhere.