I thought I’d resurect this thread to see if anyone else needed advice.
If not, ignore it, and it shall sink into oblivion.
I have an old world map, put out by National Geographic, about 4’ x 5’. It’s framed, but not glassed in. The color has faded, it’s very dusty and cobwebby, and I’m sure that there are nicotine stains on it. Grandpa was a heavy smoker. It was printed in 1957, the same year I was born, and I enjoy the looks of it. How can I clean and preserve it? It’s got a few water damaged spots, so it’s not museum quality. I intend to keep displaying it in my Lair as part of the decor.
Lissa, Thank you for this thread. I wish all experts in their field would make one. 
I’ve just brought an old [jugendstil] clock - a pendule, not a ‘grandfather clock’ - to be repaired. It stopped ticking. According to the repair shop, the timepiece is badly worn out. They can repair the time indicator - and the ticking - but not the strike clock.
For a lot of money.
Should I try another shop first, to see if they can fix the whole timepiece, or is that a waste of * hehehe* time?
Also, there’s some candle wax on the side of the clock. [which is beech wood]. How do I remove that?
And you told us not to use furniture polish on wood? I have two antique cupboards. [oak] What do I have to use to get rid of water stains?
Thank you, again.
[p/s lieu, You have an original Constable? Oh, wow. ]
Thanks Lissa.
I took the chestnut coffer to the dealer I purchased it from for treatment shortly after we “spoke” and it’s again in good shape.
Regarding the watercolor, yes, I’m prone to err on the side of conservatism and I think as you suggested that it’s best to just leave well enough alone. As mentioned, the hue is only a very light brown and it’s not a great detriment to it’s opacity. Upon close inspection the brush strokes are still quite evident and it’s not worth an attemp at removal if it could put it at risk…
I saw in another of your responses though that UV glass exists and that’s a concern I’ll go ahead and address. It hung for over a hundred years in a London bookstore, I’m assuming without glass, and was purchased 70 years ago by the artist I bought it from and I’m guessing the frame and present glass were added at that time. Obviously, it’d not be UV safe so I guess it’s the very least I can do to aid in it’s preservation. I’d been thinking about having it reframed and this provides all the impetus necessary. Thanks for the tips!
Lynn, since it’s not a museum piece, you can be a little more agressive with it’s treatment.
Use a dry paintbrush to remove as much of the surface dust and then try this product. We use it in the museum on our less-fragile papers. It seems to do a pretty good job. Take your time and be very gentle. Make sure it’s not removing any of the colors.
I’d suggest glassing it in, just to keep future dusts and grimes from accumulating on the surface. (Every time you spray air freshner, hairspray, burn a candle or smoke, gunk builds up on the surface.) Use an acid-free backing in the frame if you want to be real careful with its preservation. Try to keep it out of direct sunlight, and in stable humidity.
It depends on the shop, really. Good, quality repair work on antiques is not cheap. If this shop is reputable (ask your local museum for recomendations) then a high price is justified.
Then, it depends on you. Does it really matter to you if the clock works? (We don’t even run our clocks in the museum for fear of them breaking down). Did you buy it because you liked the look of it, or because you wanted a timepiece? Are you considering reselling it?
[quote]
Scrape away as much wax as you can using your finger,
a plastic kitchen scraper (or a credit card), or a stiff piece of cardboard. Be careful not to scratch the wood. Applying ice cubes in a plastic bag to the wax may help it to crumble. Wipe up the water as ice the melts to prevent water spots.
You can probably remove the remaining traces of wax with a cloth moistened with mineral spirits (paint thinner). You may have to rub for a while.
I remember when I first started working there that I was shocked that they used paint thinnner as a wood cleaner. After having been warned not to use so many different things on wood, paint thinner seemed downright harsh and dangerous. But no, it’s a relatively benign solvent. To be extra careful, rub a little on a hidden part of the wood to make sure it doesn’t harm the finish.
If that doesn’t work, you may want to try using a hairdryer on the lowest heat setting. Blot with a cloth as the wax melts, but again, be very careful. That heat is not good for the wood, and you don’t want to do it for too long. If it doesn’t work very quickly, give up.
I’ve used a prodct called Jasco Furniture White Ring Remover on my own antiques. It’s a cloth in a small plastic container which has an oily substance soaked into the cloth. (I have found that some Lowes stores carry it.) It will take a lot of time and patient rubbing, depending on how deep the stain goes. Afterwards, use some paint thinner to clean off the residual oils.
Oh wow, Lissa, Thank you so much. If there’s anything you need to know about …umm… Golden age whodunnits ;), just ask.
Paint thinner, huh. I’d never have thought that. I’ll give it a try.
** Does it really matter to you if the clock works? (We don’t even run our clocks in the museum for fear of them breaking down).** Yes, it does. It sounds ridiculous, but I’ve grown attached to the ticking. I miss it. Especially in silence of the early morning. ** Did you buy it because you liked the look of it, or because you wanted a timepiece?** I didn’t buy it. I inherited it. ** Are you considering reselling it?** Nope, not at all. I’ll keep it.
Again, Thank you. 
[QUOTE=gum]
** Does it really matter to you if the clock works? (We don’t even run our clocks in the museum for fear of them breaking down).** Yes, it does. It sounds ridiculous, but I’ve grown attached to the ticking. I miss it. Especially in silence of the early morning. ** Did you buy it because you liked the look of it, or because you wanted a timepiece?** I didn’t buy it. I inherited it. ** Are you considering reselling it?** Nope, not at all. I’ll keep it.
[QUOTE]
You should shop around a bit. Ask some reputable antiques dealers and museum professionals about the best repair shop in your area. You may even be able to find a club of clock afficianados in your area who would give you recommendations.
You may find a bit of variation in the price, but beware of the cheap price: you get what you pay for. Quality work is extrodinarily expensive in some cases. Don’t skimp.
Don’t be afraid to ask questions. As I said earlier in the thread, folks in the “old stuff” business love to talk about their work-- sometimes the difficult part is getting us to shut up! If the repairman is reluctant to talk, or gives you vague, unsatisfactory answers, walk away. Find out what sort of parts he’s using, for example, and how they compare with the originals.
Good luck with your seach. I hope your heirloom brings you years of joy.
Fascinating thread.
I have three items:
-
An old document. Could be any document; this one happens to be something Napoleon wrote. I currently just have it framed.
-
An ushabti from around 500 BC. Sitting on a shelf, not really sheltered, but away from curious hands
-
A clay tablet (maybe 3" x 2" x 1/2") from around 2,500 BC. Currently in cotton in a box in a drawer, but I’d like to put it out somewhere.
Thanks.
I have some antique doll clothes from the late 1800’s. They belonged to my grandmother and she left a small note with a story about each one. How best to preserve and care for them? Display them?
As with any old, valuable doctument, it’s better not to display it at all, since any light will fade the inks over time. My suggestion is that you have a copy made and display the copy, and keep the original stored in a dark place. If you decide to do this, get an acid-free envelope large enough to hold it, or an acid-free manilla folder. Always wear cotton gloves when handling documents like these.
If you really want to display the original, you should have it re-framed in archival materials-- acid-free backing and UV glass. Hang it in the darkest corner of the room.
Keep it in an area which has stable humidity (about 50% is ideal) and cool, stable temperature. Watch the document for any changes. If any changes are happening rapidly, you need to take it to a professional conservator.
For these two items, I’d suggest having a small Plexiglass case made for them. Light should not harm these items (unless the ushtabi has paint on it-- does it?). Your only concern would be humidity, and I suggest putting a small humidity monitor in the case with the items.
Put a soft, pillowy pad in the bottom of the case for them to rest on. I’d suggest an un-dyed cloth for this, so you don’t have to worry about color leaching over time. (You can never be too careful.) Sit it on top of a desk, or other sturdy piece of furniture that’s in a place it’s unlikely to be bumped or knocked over by traffic.
How strong is the material from which the clothes are made? Do they have any signs of fading, insect damage or dry-rot?
If the material looks at all fragile, it’s probably not a good idea to display them on a doll. Gravity is not kind to weak cloth-- and even a tiny bit of damage is too much. If they’re fragile, but you really want to display them, I’d stuff them gently with cotton batting (like is used in quilts) or acid-free tissue paper, and then put them on a tilted bed of felt (to keep them from slipping down. Let the stuffing “support” the clothes as much as possible. Do NOT use any pins to keep them in place.
Whether you stuff them or, if they’re strong enough to be placed on a doll form, put them in some kind of case over them to keep the dust off of them.
If you decide to store them, you need to get some acid-free tissue paper and an acid-free box. (You can find these materials on the net in museum supply sites). Wrap each one individually, laying them out flat, then put a little bit of acid-free stuffing in each to keep their shape. Any bonnets or shoes should be stuffed full (gently!) of paper to maintain their shape before being wrapped and placed in the box. Store them in a place where temperature and humidity are stable (closets in your home are probably fine). NEVER put antiques in the attic.
Check them periodically for insect damage. If you suspect insects might be a problem, you can put mothballs around the OUTSIDE of the box-- never inside. (Mothballs “offf-gas” which means they put off fumes which can damage cloth.)
If you need to clean them up, use a soft, dry paintbrush to gently flick the dust off the surface of the cloth. Do not immerse them in water, or use any detergents to try to spot-clean them. It’s best to leave them as they are.
Oops! I forgot to add that you should put your gramdmother’s notes in an acid-free envelope and keep them with the doll clothing. I’d suggest making a Xerox copy in case something should happen to the originals and keep it in a safe place.
Lissa, not so much a care question but since you’re such a knowlegable resource… do you know the name of a Windsor style chair from the 1800s that has an uneven seat? One half of the seat is tilted, ending up lower than the other. This is not due to warping, etc. It obviously was an intentional part of the design. Many thanks!
Thanks very much, Lissa.
Is it tilted side-to-side or does it have a lower back than the front?
If its that one side is lower than the other, I’m stumped. I checked out a few furniture resources I have, and saw nothing like what you’re describing.
Do you know the maker?
Are all the parts original?
I’ll ask at work tomorrow if anyone has heard of such a thing.
Thanks for the advice on the doll clothes- they are in excellent shape and are clean, dry, and fairly undamaged, though one is made of a fragile looking material (sort of mesh-like). They have light wear and staining, but appear to have been gently used. The seamstress is noted on some.
I’ve kept them in their original packing (as I found them) since the late '80’s.
I think I will display them (except the fragile looking one) with their respective notes, but in a case that I’ll keep a closet that I can take out rather than hanging on a wall to avoid fading from light.
One special dress made so a doll could take part in a school play at “The Diamond School, Cleveland County, Oklahoma Territory- 1902” (if I recall correctly). The others are from 1875. I think they are real treasures.
One half of it is tilted back to front, the right I think (I’m at work and can’t check). The seat’s even at the back but one half of it tilts toward the front so that at the edge it’s probably an inch and a half to two lower that the other side.
Somewhere I’ve seen this referenced, so I know there’s a name for it. It was given to me by my grandmother, a truly exceptional antiquarian who never sold the best pieces she came across.
Lieu, I’m sorry it took me so long to get back to you on this. Our “furniture guy” was on emergency family leave, and just got back.
When I described the chair to him, he shook his head in puzzlement, and went for his research materials. He didn’t come up with anything, and we don’t have anything similar in our collection.
The best he can tell you, he says, is that it must be a custom-made piece, almost like a novelty item. Without seeing it, he really can’t say more, but he suggests you may want to show it to some experts and see f they can identify a maker.
If you do find the name for it, let me know-- I’m kind of curious myself now!
I have two (theoretically) valuable antiques. The first is a history of Ireland written some point in the 1800s. I’m not concerned so much with it’s value, but with how best to preserve the book.
The other antique that I have of value is the oak veneer bedroom suite. I can only guess at it’s age (something like 100 years or so). It’s in pretty good shape, but the original owner made some severe modifications to it. The bed’s a sleigh bed, and the original owner cut the headboard down considerably (he turned it into the footboard, but left the original footboard intact and it’s now the headboard). Any idea if this has destroyed it’s value? Should I stop using it?
I have a question you may or may not be able to answer, Lissa - I understand it is not your area of expertise. But Gunslinger and I converted an 8-pane window into an art piece by printing a set of eight black and white photos with an “architectural ruins” theme and adhering them to the back of the glass. The wood of the windowframe was painted white and is now a very attractive shabby finish. However, I am concerned about the possibility of lead paint chips coming off the wood and contaminating our living space. Any idea how I might be able to safeguard against that without ruining the attractiveness of the current faded finish?