Auto Repair: 67 Olds Steering Gear

Factual Questions
1

Hi Everyone

I thought I would post this here, since this is in fact the ultimate repository of all human knowledge.

I finally got around to replacing the loose and leaking steering box (power) on my 67 Olds 98. I got the old box out without too much trouble, although the flange that connects the column to the input shaft on the gearbox was pretty tight. I was able to get a pry bar between the metal collar of the flange and the gear housing, and it didn’t take too much effort to nudge it out.

Well, that should have been the point at which I got worried. Getting the new box’s input shaft into the flange is proving beyond difficult. Of course, laying on my back, holding a 20lb gear over my face doesn’t make it any easier.

I guess my real question is if there is some trick to this that I just don’t know. I have made sure that the flat on the input shaft lines up with the open side of the flange. But man, that thing is tight.

Of course, the worst part is that this falls into the category of repairs that didn’t HAVE to be done, and now I am wishing I had left well enough alone.

Please help. The summer weather is coming!

Thanks
Dave

2

I’ve done this job on A-Body Oldsmobiles (442’s, F-85s), but not big Olds. Suggest the following:

3

It’s not clear to me what you are describing. Is it a D-shaped input shaft, or a splined input shaft with a spline or two missing, that needs to be inserted an inch or so into a hollow portion at the end of the steering column shaft? If so, three things come to mind.

  1. Sometimes the two shafts have to be lined up just about perfectly to enable insertion. Creative wiggling of the gear assembly, and sometimes of the column shaft, is necessary.

  2. The replacement part may be painted, and the thickness of the paint is enough to prevent insertion.

  3. The column shaft clamps on the input shaft, and the clamp fit may be tight. Spreading the clamp ears a bit may be necessary. I usually do this by driving a chisel into the space between the ears, making sure to not foul the space the input shaft has to go into. The chisel acts as a wedge to keep the clamp ears slightly separated. Don’t overdo it – breaking off a clamp ear will magnify your problems.

4

Thanks for the replies

OK:

You described it pretty well. The column terminates with a rubber disc type U-Joint. The now open (gearbox-side) of that U-Joint has teeth, except for on one flat side. The input shaft also has splines, except for one flat side. The U-Joint holds on to the input shaft with a clamp, similar to the type that holds a tie rod end into the center link (two “ears” through which a bolt goes). The input shaft needs to travel through the clamp and up into the U-Joint, a good 1.5 inches. The clamp portion is definitely too tight to even get the input shaft started into, so your chisel idea sounds good to me. I was nervous about trying to spread that, due to fear of breaking it, but if you have done so successfully then I can try it.

The old one was similarly tight- I had to use a screwdriver to gently pry the two pieces apart. I have checked part numbers, and I do have the correct part.

Fortunately, nothing is painted.

Thanks for the ideas. I will try that.

Dave

5

I changed a steering box on a sister car to yours (a 67 Pontiac Catalina) and I had to take the steering column loose to get the old box out. It is relatively easy to do, 2 bolts at the dash and 3 at the firewall. After the new box was bolted to the cross member I reinstalled the column.