OK I regret this already.Why are there so many different oil filters. There seem to be three basic sizes for passenger cars,and I can understand that. But in the size ranges there are dozens of diff. ‘models’. Do some reequire a more efficient one The prices are the same,so if that is it, why not just make one efficient type?Pressures? Couldn’t that be taken care of by a valve in the engine? Related to pressure,filter pore size (or other internal differance)controlling the speed the oil passes through the filter? Again if a ‘fast’ filter does the job why not use that one on all cars? is this something so obvious i can’t see it for all the hot oil dripping in my eyes and running down my arm?The threads are all the same size (and they tighten clockwize, because of the, NO! don’t go there) But, as an aside what is ‘hand tight?’ Whose hand?Popeye’s or Olive’s? If Olive hand tightens it it’s gonna leak.
John, I wish I could be of move help, but I’m just glad Detroit did away with ‘canister’ type filters and switched to screw-on cans exclusively.
On a related note: I don’t know if they’re still made, but I once saw articles & ads for an oil-filter ‘system’ (I think for diesel trucks) that used toilet paper as the filter element. If there are any professional OTR drivers out there, maybe they can help.
As for ‘hand-tight’ – the ‘definition’ I have always gone by is, tighten the filter body down until you feel it ‘snug’ against the mounting, take a sight-line on something convenient to judge by, and then turn the filter one-quarter more. Stick a clean newspaper under the filter and run the engine 5 minutes to check.
Frankly, I used to do all my own oil changes. Then I added up what the oil cost, what the filter cost, what disposal cost, what my time and trouble were worth – and when a chain of local service shops started doing oil-changes, complete with a lube and tire rotation for 11.90 , I figured I was way ahead of the game. Even getting it on sale, oil runs .99 a quart; the filter will run around $2. That’s about $7 right there. Then you have to actually get under the sucker, drain it, get rid of the old oil . . .
Yep, I remember the cartridges.I drove a 50 hudson that didn’t even have a filter. I don’t remember what the recomended oil change was,probably every gas fill up. I remember seeing the Toilet paper filter too, a return to the cartridge. It was in JC Whitney, right next to the amazing ‘never buy air filters again!’ A return to the oil bath air filter. ‘Incredible new technology returns us to the past!’ “Never buy gasolene again! Amazing ‘Horse’ saves fuel” I once calculated that if you bought all their gas milage improvers you would be producing gasolene. So that’s how much I trust them. besides if you use the toilet paper filter, ,should it go over or under? I am only paying 8 bucks for an oil change now with Quepons and such and it includes grease job. $10 if I upgrade the oil,I can’t do it for that.
Signitorily yours, Mr John
" Pardon me while I have a strange interlude."-Marx
I can’t think of any reason why there cannot be one or two standard sizes for oil filters, except that the manufacturers had not talked to each other yet, or somehow don’t want to. So who wants to start a committee to form an industry standard?
Considering that the auto companies can’t even build identical cars (same year/model/etc.) the same, it doesn’t surprise me that there are so many filters. I got a timing chain and water pump from a used Toyota truck that was the exact same year, model, engine, transmission, option package, etc. that mine was, and neither of them fit!
I believe it is because designers have enough trouble fitting the engine / trans / exhaust / intake / accesories/ smog controls / electronics under the hood in the first place. The oil filter is of secondary importance. Do the design, then find a filter that will fit in the left over space (and is still acessable). If none work, design a new filter. 30 years ago, when there was far more room under the hood, there were only about 3 or 4 filters widely used.
Hand tight = get the filter threaded straight. spin it on. (when it stops spinning, the gasket has contacted the base) tighten one-half to three-quarters of a turn more.
Hey, one time I thought I would take it to Kmart and get an oil change, seemed cheap enough at $17, after all the oil & filter would cost about $11, so $6 to keep myself clean, what a deal.
Next time I did it myself with a filter I bought, a Napa or something. So I looked at the Kmart filter to compare to make sure the size was right and the Kmart filter was so cheaply made that I never let them do it again. Not to mention the Kmart guy tighened the nut too much so I needed a new nut. arg.