I want to replace to the screws on my door latch plate to make it harder to kick in or attack with a crowbar, some people recommend using a 3 or 3 and a half inch wood screw others recommend using a 3 inch t25 gold star self tapping framing screw which is supposed to be as hard a nail but it only has threads on half the screw the other half is smooth, and the wood screws have threads running down the whole shaft. Do you think the t25 screw would be more susceptible to a crowbar attack or repeated kicking becasue it has less threads?
Here is the t25 screw http://screw-products.com/images/interior-multipurpose-screw-2.jpg
I also would like to use the 3 and a half inch screw so I make contact with both studs that are attached to the door frame but I have a light switch near the door frame as seen here http://i62.tinypic.com/16bx79x.jpg and I worry about hitting the wires going to it. Is it a risk? I read that wires don’t go below the switch only above but want to be sure of that, the house was built in the 1970’s and that door is on the second floor. Is there building code that specifies it? The door molding you see is 3 inches wide and 3 and a half inches would be about half a inch or less away from the edge of the light switch.
I’ve never heard the wires don’t go below the switch, and doubt that’s true. I certainly wouldn’t count on it.
If you take the switch plate off, can you tell where there’s a stud? If there’s a stud just to the left of the switch box, you could use a screw that only goes as deep as the stud. Going that far won’t hit a wire, and going farther won’t do you any good.
wires come from the basement to the first floor and to the second floor.
wires can and do go above and below boxes. you can’t predict. either you have a diagram and description of your wiring (which has to be accurate and up to date) or you have to look.
even wires exiting a box in one direction might not continue that direction. some situation might have caused a U-turn in the wire.
They come from the basement? Here it looks like it comes from the electric pole in the back yard to the 2nd story, although the switch box is in the basement.
Never mind where the wires come from. Standard framing will have 2 studs on each side of the door. You can safely use a longer screw of any type on the hinge. The only concern you should have is making sure the head of the screw is no larger than the recesses area of the hinge. Take one screw with you to the store for comparision. #10 is the most common size.
Just keep in mind that the latch itself is not that long, maybe 1/2 inch at most. I’m referring to the part in the door that will fit into the latch plate you’re making really, really secure. If you want added strength, have a deadbolt installed. The deadbolt extends into the doorframe an inch or so.
Look at the door latch plate. It should have a beveled recess that the head of the screw fits into. Buy a screw with the appropriate sized head. Install screw. How is anyone going to get a crowbar between the head and the plate? Can’t! The screw head is flush with the face of the plate. Besides, with the door closed, how is anyone going to get a crowbar or even a screwdriver in place to remove the new screw?
Hey, this is the internet & you’re going to get free advice from people who know the best answers & those who don’t (like in this case, me). Also, the people who break down doors read the internet too (surprise!)
so the best people to answer might never answer your question here at all.
Best suggestion? Someone you know who is a GC can help you find the wires are run & a Lock Smith can advise you on bolts & reinforcement questions.
Why would I refer you to a Lock Smith that would charge you money? They have to be registered/licensed (depending on the state), they went to school for this & are trained in this area, they do this every single day,
and if they have even ONE “phoning-it-in” screw up on a client’s door, it’ll be all over the internet faster than you can put up a “Out Of Business- Store Front For Rent” sign.
Pull the switchplate and look inside with a flashlight. You will be able to see if the wires leave out the bottom of the box.
Furthermore the switch is far enough from the door jam jam I wouldn’t worry about it.
I would also consider getting an extended strike plate available at a hardware store that takes 4 screws not just 2.
I usually use 3 1/2" #10 screws when reinforcing the deadbolt strike. Good deadbolts come with # 10 anchor screws out of the box. As said above door RO is usually framed with a king stud and a cripple and the electrical box is most certainly mounted to the other side of the king stud. With 3/4" for the jamb and a 1/4" space that gives you about 4" from the strike plate surface to the other side of the stud where the wires will be. I would not worry about it.
A bolt buddy is an upgrade that is relatively easy to install and will seriously improve the kick-in resistance of the jamb and door.
They are an inch and a half and the math was all worked out for you there. Notice how stud + stud + other stuff equalled 4 inches? And also notice that 2 + 2 = 4. Therefore, obviously the stud thickness must be being computed as less than 2 inches unless the “other stuff” has a value of zero, in which case, why is it there?
1 1/2 inch stud + 1 1/2 inch stud + 3/4 inch jamb + 1/4 inch space = 4 inches
You should take a picture of the area and head up to your local hardware. They will be very happy to advise you of exactly what will work for your purposes.
