Does anyone have any ideas for best way to attack that dreaded 7-10 split in bowling? Angle, approach, speed, curve, which of the two pins to aim for?
I have knocked down a 7-10 split exactly once. Now, I am by no means an expert bowler, and my viictory was entirely due to luck. However, this is how it went down: Ball struck the left pin all the way on the left side. The ball went in the gutter, and the left pin toppled over more or less sideways, rolling into the right pin.
For AMF machines, throw hard and straight at the inner edge of the outside pin (7 on odd lane, 10 on even lane). The pit is shallower on that side. Try to send the pin into the cushion where it meets the pit wall, low enough to avoid the curtain, and with as much speed as possible. With practice, you can bounce that pin back onto the lane consistently. the local Pro can get the 4-6 or 7-10 about 10% of the time this way.
For brand “B” machines, I dunno. (The center I worked in was AMF.)
that reminds me of an interesting story, i was at bowling once and i told my friend i could tie with him, it was the last frame and the score was like this:
i have one bowl left ( i got a gutter ball first) and i bowled it straight into the gutter, at the end of the lane it bounced out, hit the number 10 pin, which spun around and knocked over 4 more.
Gutterballs are ruled dead, any pins you hit after the ball hits the gutter are not scored.
pmh is right, the general method is to hit the inside of the 7, it bounces off the wall and rebounds across the lane into the 10. I used to be pretty good at that.
This is probably obvious, but in order to pull this off successfully, you have to 1) have a decently heavy ball, and 2) throw it pretty hard.
I was in a bowling league for a long time, starting in junior high, and when I was a kid I could never pick up the 7-10, because I wasn’t strong enough and I was using a wimpy 9-pound ball. The 7 pin would just topple gently over, instead of ricocheting off the wall and hitting the 10 pin. As soon as I got older and gained some muscle strength (and started using a heavier ball), it became easier. Although still not simple. I have picked up exactly two 7-10’s, ever.
I’ve picked up one 7-10, and several 4-6-7-10 splits. I echo the commentary above: you need to hit the 7 on the left of the pin, or the 10 on the right of the pin, at such an angle that it’ll bounce into the lane and take care of the other pin.
And I also echo Chas’ comment to RawIsSydney: gutterballs are dead the moment they enter the gutter. Moreover, if the score was already tied 112 each at the last frame, I fail to see how your getting four resulted in a tie. On the other hand, if you were the final bowler, then had you scored correct – gutterball is dead – then the game ended at 112 each, and you did tie.
I regret to inform you that you are bowling all wrong. Bowling done properly does not require you to expend ANY energy pushing or throwing the ball.
My bowling coach used to lecture me (and anyone else he could corner) about how “Bowling is the lazy man’s sport. Gravity does all the work.” Bowling done properly only requires enough muscular strength to lift the ball and keep your shoulders level. Gravity does all the rest of the work. You push the ball away from your chest, extending your arm, and let gravity pull the ball downwards and back, then gravity pulls the ball back down, where you release. You should not put ANY force on the ball at any time, and especially at the time you’re releasing it. If you do, you’re just pushing the ball somewhere it doesn’t naturally want to go. The ball, released right, WANTS to go into the strike zone, the 1-3 pocket.
I frequently see “hurlers” who throw the ball halfway down the lane. They’re terribly inaccurate and inconsistent. They think they’re getting great pin action but I get better results with control than they get with brute force.
Use two bowling balls.