Regarding winterization: Do the outdrives on Inboard/Outboard engines self-drain when removed from the water? It’s my understanding that outboard engines will do this, provided they are returned to vertical for a short time after leaving the water (ie. not left tilted up for trailering).
We are planning to use our boat frequently this winter, and were wondering about employing a heat-source in the engine compartment when it’s stored (on the trailer). We want to avoid repeated winterizations. FWIW: It’s stored in a closed, unheated garage that will be at ambient temperature. We can easily lower the outdrive to the running position while stored. It has reliable 110V service for the heat source.
In the past I’ve used an electric blanket surrounding the engine to continue wintertime use, but this was for a “pure” inboard (no mechanicals outside the hull other than a shaft and prop). I’m unsure how outdrives are to be winterized. It’s a 5.7L Mercruiser with the Alpha 1 outdrive, if it matters.
I know this question is suited for a boating forum, but discussions on those frequently devolve into brand arguments. I figure the SDMB is probably as knowledgeable as anywhere.
Lower the outdrive and it will self drain. Always lower the outdrive so it drains AND so the bellows don’t develop a set/kink.
Heating an engine is one of the reasons engine blocks crack. Power goes out or the heating source fails and you are $hit out of luck. Learn how to drain then engine. Do not discard this advice.
Then why does the engine block have drain plugs to get the water out of the engine block, and why do boat mechanics use those when winterizing, and not just lower the outdrive tilt?
The outdrive will self drain. The engine will not. If you don’t drain anything, and you lower the outdrive, it will self drain and no harm will come to it.
Water is trapped in the engine, because it must go UP the exhaust manifolds/risers to eventually go down the exhaust and get out. Then engine and exhaust have drain plugs you must open (and poke around in a little) to get the water to run out.
An engine must treated individually by draining (best) or running RV antifreeze into.
Thanks for the replies. Sorry about the late response, but I honestly thought the thread had died without any takers. Only found it had responses this morning.
As to the answers, I appreciate the advice Philster, but this is our tenth boat It’s just the first that: a) has an outdrive and b) we want to use during the winter. I have multiple backup sources for the heat, and live very close to the storage garage. I plan to install petcocks for the block drains and empty those following each use. I figure in the unlikely event that it gets well below freezing, power fails, *and *I don’t realize it, at least the damage will be limited to the (relatively) inexpensive parts. It would be a hassle, but manifolds, risers, and water pumps are easily replaceable (by me). Engine blocks are (as you warn) a whole 'nuther level of hurt. Any lengthy out of town trips will be prefaced by a full winterizing (antifreeze with the fake-a-lake, followed by full draining).
My main area of ignorance was the outdrive itself. And it is remarkably hard to get good answers from dedicated boating forums. In one case (I swear) a poster claimed I should remove the entire outdrive after each wintertime trip and store it in my house. :eek: I wanted to ask if I should put it in our bed each night, but didn’t feel like having the argument.
Again, thanks for the replies and advice. My main concern was the outdrive itself. I’m also told that water can find its way into the oil and I will change the outdrive oil prior to cold temps, just to insure no freeze danger exists inside the gearboxes. If I find water there, I assume I have bigger problems to deal with.
Additional question for Philster (if you’re still reading).
Are you recommending lowering the outdrive when in storage after each use? Does the bellows develop a set no matter what? Or is this mainly a cold-weather precaution? I can lower it most of the way after parking it in the garage. I’ll just need to add this to my checklist (wouldn’t want to forget it and drive off).
When you use this boat in cold weather you should be much more cautious with the engine block.
Do you know how long you can leave the engine off without damage should you stall or shut it down?
I have no experience with I/O’s but i do run my outboards in very cold weather and that is -10 f at times. As long as I keep the lower unit in the water i have had no problems but if I tilt the motor i can kiss the impeller goodby at the least.
I run the motor a couple min when i have it on the trailer to help dry the impeller and the next time in the water i don’t start it for a few min. just in case the impeller is froze.
I use a commercial battery for the extra cranking time needed for cold weather and absolutely despise the primer system! chock plates are so much better in cold weather IMO.
I have never winterized my 70 Hp. Evenrude in the 20 years i have had it. and its an '85.
In fact I will be getting it running this week now for the water foul season.
Lowering the outdrive is always best, but it’s more best in colder weather.
Cold weather is harder on the bellows. If it’s not practical to lower it between uses during the boating season, increase the number of inspections and be prepared to replace the bellows sooner than if the outdrive spent most of its time lowered.
It’s just the first that: a) has an outdrive and b) we want to use during the winter. I have multiple backup sources for the heat, and live very close to the storage garage. I plan to install petcocks for the block drains and empty those following each use. I figure in the unlikely event that it gets well below freezing, power fails, *and *I don’t realize it, at least the damage will be limited to the (relatively) inexpensive parts. It would be a hassle, but manifolds, risers, and water pumps are easily replaceable (by me). Engine blocks are (as you warn) a whole 'nuther level of hurt. Any lengthy out of town trips will be prefaced by a full winterizing (antifreeze with the fake-a-lake, followed by full draining).