I’m looking at buying a bicycle for getting around campus at my University. I am moving off-campus next semester so this would also be my ride to school, although I am only a couple blocks away or potentially a couple miles to the grocery store. I just really hate walking.
Anyway I was hoping that some of the more experianced members may have some advice on what to look for. I have already googled some websites “choosing a bicycle, etc” and have narrowed it down to either a road-biased hybrid bike or just a plain road bike. I will only be riding on smooth pavement so mountain bike tires or suspensions are not neccessary. I just was something that is light, has a few gears for going up and down hills, and either coems with panniers or they can easily be added on.
Does anyone have any particular brands or models that could foot this bill? My desired price range is probably up to about $400, including helmet, headlights, and any other needed accessories.
Where do you live? If you’re somewhere that’s pretty much totally urban (like, say, you’ll never want to cut around pedestrians by riding on a median strip, because there is no median strip, or some such thing), then go with the road bike. If you live anywhere where there’s even the slightest chance of going even short distances through mud, or over grass, go with the hybrid.
I’m glad you’re not interested in cheaping out on your bike. Cheap bikes tend to be made pretty cheaply, which means lots of bent forks the first time you mess up while trying to hop a curb. You’re better off spending more money on the frame, and a seat you really like, than you are on various accessories or components that weigh that oh-so-precious half a gram less than their $50-dollars-cheaper-but-just-fine-for-a-commuter counterparts.
Be willing to blow some money on the headlights, though. Oh, and maybe flashers for your arms, if you’re riding on the sides of roads (rather than sidewalks) at night.
When you get your bike, make sure the salesperson fits you for the bike. Oh, and always carry a tire repair kit with you. You never know when you’re going to get a hole in your tires, and having the repair kit helps immensely. Your bike will, of course, come outfitted with tires. You’ll have a choice of two types of tire valves. Choose the type that’s compatible with the air hoses people use for filling car tires. That’ll make it much, much easier for you to fill up your tires while you’re out and about.
Or, rather, owning a cheap bike often means bending the fork the first time you mess up while trying to hop a curb.
There’s only 1 fork on a bike, and, even if you have it replaced, a single instance of trying to hop a curb couldn’t possibly bend both the original fork and the new fork at the same time.
It sounds like your ideal bicycle would be a touring bike. You’d have plenty of gears for easy peddling on the steepest hills and it would be guaranteed to be able to accommodate panniers. Since you’re already considering a road bike, you’re comfortable with riding on dropped handlebars.
The downside is that you’ll probably not find a decent new bike for less than $700, and it might be difficult to find a used one. This page offers a pretty good overview of what’s out there.
Personally, I’m still riding my 10-year-old Cannondale T700, and I’ve found it to be the most reliable, comfortable bike I’ve owned or ridden.
Yeah I’ve had experience with department store bikes before. They always fall apart. or the chain rusts in a month. or the brakes constantly rub against the rim. Or the handle bars get warped for no apparent reason.
Yeah not doing that again.
I should mention that I’m in tucson, so mud is going to be minimal. At most some gravel or grass. So you think that I’m better buying the frame and wheels, etc all individually?
Go here . Check out their comfort/low end bikes. You’ll find something that suits you there. $400 is probably the bottom end for a bike that works for you, but you will find something there to make you happy.
Oh, and if you are female, don’t bother with a ‘girls’ frame. Insist on the traditional double diamond ‘men’s frame’. For marketing reasons, they still sell girls frames on low end bikes. Don’t fall for it.
You want good brakes and a good drivetrain. As someone mentioned, a good fork.
So where can you cut? Well, I went with a steel frame to save money (stop wincing - it’s ten years old now and fine). Yes, it’s heavy. If you have to carry it up stairs or something, it’s a bad choice. Otherwise, who cares?
I’d go with a hybrid if only because I’ve had many fewer flat tires than I used to have with a road bike - even though all my biking is on pavement, there’s lots of gravel, broken glass and cracks that you never notice until you’re biking.
$400?! Ye gods…that’s more than my car, college kids sure are rich down south.
I just bought a second hand plain-jane (no shocks) mountain bike for riding around town. I took it out, had a ride, jumped a few curbs in the store parking lot and made sure it shifted smoothly and nothing fell off, took it home, cleaned out the drivetrain and chain with a rag and some WD40, and applied fresh lube. My average trips are aroud 30kms both ways with I’ve put about 300kms on it with my 200lb+ ass in the last month or so and have had not a single problem. Total cost was $60 Canadian.
My last bike was new, from the local sport mart and cost me around $100(it had some reasonably good suspension). with proper maintainance it worked fine for a year until it was stolen.
Bikes are not difficult to work on, I’m not a gear nut, I don’t refer to my bikes by brand or model number, and somehow I manage to get by with some common sense maintainace, and often faster than guys with $1000 bikes. Millions of people in third world countries ride on dirt roads every day with heavy loads on “cheap” bikes. You’re going to have a hard time convincing me I need a $400 bike to putt around a paved campus with.
Well, bikes are machines. The difference between the department store bike for $100 and the bike store bike for $400 is that the bike store bikes has parts that are industry standard. That makes a difference when you take it back to shop for service.
To the OP, check out this bike. You probably don’t want or need a suspension fork, and at $400, you won’t get a good one anyway. The flat bar bike is a nice configuration.
Uh, I’m fairly certain that parts for the $100 made in China bike will cost less than that Specialized Wundercycle. It seemed to to me when I went to a bike store to pick up a spare inner, anyway.
The first Sport Mart bike I bought had a 1 year comprehensive warranty that covered everything except the inner tube. I never used it, it was easier to just put in quick adjustments on my own than to take it back to the shop.
I think I read once on this board about one of the differences between Japan and the US. In Japan (and everywhere else I’ve ever been), a bike is just a means of transportation. The sight of an office worker in a three piece suit cruising along on a rusty old 10 speed bike is common, while here in NA, apparenty you NEED a $400 bike and a complete Lance Armstrong outfit just to start riding.
Hey, if the $400 superbike 6000 makes you feel faster or safer, go nuts. It just all seems like marketing hype and rampant consumerism to me.
Here’s the deal. If you ride a fair amount, say 100 miles a week or more, then a bike designed to do so will perform better than something sold next to the toy department in Wal Mart. $400 is definitely on the low side, but I’m certain the OP will find a good bike at that price.
I’ve spent plenty of time wrenching on my bikes. I’ve spent plenty of time with other mechanics at the local bike shop. I’ve spent plenty of time in the saddle. The OP doesn’t need a toy. The OP needs a decent bike. The $100 bike will be a complete waste of money. It’s junk. $400 will buy a decent bike that will last several years.
Oops. Sorry. I see your point. No, it’s not about cost as much as it’s about the part meets some industry standard. For instance, the $400 bike probably has a bottom bracket that is the same size and threading that is commonly available. The $100 bike has a cheap bottom bracket that is not expected to ever be serviced. No one, not even the lowest Shimano line, has a part that will fit in the cheap bike.
On the other hand, the $400 bike has a bottom bracket that is machined to an industry standard, Not only is there a cheap replacement, but if the owner really wanted to a top of the line Shimano Dura Ace part will fit also. It’s this standardization that make the $400 bike more serviceable long term.
Thanks for all the responses. You guys are awesome. Just to clarify as well, I am male, not female, so that business with the girl bike frame is not an issue for me. Hopefully it will help anyone else who reads this thread though.
This will probably come down to whatever bike seems most comfortable to me when I’m at the bike store.
Oops. That was meant to say that you’d probably not find a decent new touring bike for less than $700. I’m sure that you can find something nice for $400. Good luck, and happy peddling.
I just want to say that I’ve had nothing but great experiences with G.T./Dyno bicycles…
I don’t know how they will fit into your price range…and well, I’m not sure which model/style you would be looking for of theirs, but I love mine and it’s great…just my .02
Sounds reasonable to me. I think a hybrid bike would be more practical for you than a true road bike. Road bike tires don’t handle potholes and rough pavement very well, especially if you don’t check the tire pressure often enough (i.e. at least once a week). And in city traffic, I feel a taller handlebar (such as you find on a hybrid) makes it easier to look around.
Bikes don’t come with panniers, you have to buy them separately. Some bikes come with a rear rack (usually the ones sold as “touring bikes”), but generally you need to buy it separately as well.
The brand of bike doesn’t matter much for conventional road bikes and hybrids. Frame design is similar, and they’re all made in Taiwan. Components will be similar if not identical.
More important is the choice of LBS; that stands for Local Bike Shop. Even the most experienced cyclist uses an LBS. Find cyclists in your area and ask for recommendations. Buy whatever brand they carry. The price may seem more expensive than mail order, but it buys you the right to bring the bike to the shop and complain about it. In addition to initial setup and adjustments, you get a free 30-day inspection (do take advantage of that, by the way). They’ll probably install accessories for you, like luggage rack, fenders and lights, if you buy them at the same time you buy the bike.
Speaking of accessories, I find that fenders are a great addition for a commuting/errand bike. The road can stay wet long after the rain has stopped. Sprinklers can create puddles even on a sunny day. Other things can make puddles too, like dogs and discarded half-empty cups of soda.
I think $400 is a reasonable price to pay for a bike; it’ll be noticeably better than a $200 bike. It should be just as reliable as a $1000 bike, though it’ll be a little heavier, have fewer gears and various controls won’t feel quite as silky-smooth.
In any case I would feel perfectly comfortable riding my $60 bike at the rate and conditions you state, I’ve done it for a year or two and nothing on my bike has failed catastrophically, aside from maybe a flat or two and straightening the rims with a $4 rim adjusting tool. Not to mention, I can buy a NEW bike every year that your bike lasts and at the end I’ll have 4 bikes and more money in my pocket.