Between the stories on this thread, the thread I started on dealer games and tricks, and the thousands of current similar stories easily found online, have you changed your mind about this statement:
Honestly, I wanted to. If it had been just me I would have given them 10 more minutes to take the extra $35 off and if not, walked out, gone to CarMax and overpaid for a used whatever.
But it was August, my wife was pregnant, and we didn’t have a car with air conditioning.
And paying the $35 to be done with it was the right move. Which is of course exactly why this practice works and continues.
Actually I’m curious about this. FoieGrasIsEvil, when you buy a car, do you let the saleman know you also work for a car dealer? Or do you just go incognito? Or do you always buy from your own dealership so it’s not an issue? I just wonder if salemen treat other salesmen differently.
I find myself in the unenviable position of being proven wrong, and it’s disheartening quite honestly. I HATE that bullshit with an undying fire. I wish I could stamp it all out. It makes my job that much harder just getting someone to trust me.
I suppose I was just basing my statement on my own experiences at the few dealers I have worked for, especially the Subaru dealership I am at now.
Yeah, but that sucks being put through that kind of nonsense. It’s completely unnecessary and perpetuates the stigma associated with car dealers and salespeople all being scummy douchebags.
Well, the last couple of cars I bought I sold to myself, so I was aware I was dealing with a salesperson…
However, my current ride, a 2007 Avalon Limited with 67,000 miles on it was a gift from my Dad after I turned in my last lease. No car payment is muy bueno. And then my Dad bought a Subaru Forester from me (for $1200 behind invoice) so it was a win/win.
However, if I went to a different dealer to buy a car, I’d probably tell them that I worked in car sales in the hopes that they wouldn’t try to pull any BS on me.
Not if you’re getting $2000 from the manufacturer.
Retired rental cars typically have higher mileage & have been driven harder than a typical single owner/user vehicle, both of which make them less valuable.
I don’t think you do.
It’s the second most expensive most people make in their life; one they’ll be paying for years & possibly driving for years after it’s paid off. One that some will spend a significant number of hours in. You don’t see why people might be hesitant to commit to buying, especially if they don’t need to right away?
So? If it’s my money going toward paying your salary I’d rather pay less & have an order taker.
In fact, given I did a lot of the work for the dealer with my last car purchase, that’s exactly what they were. I negotiated a deal on a specific model/trim & options package/color. They found the car at another dealer, but the salesman started giving me BS about they’d found the car at another dealer but would have to make a trade & he wasn’t sure it could happen, blah-blah-blah. Getting a bad vibe, I went to the car company’s website, put it what I was looking for & found exactly one of that particular build at that other dealer, 150 or 200 miles away. I called another local dealer, told them the model, level & options & color I wanted, & oh-by-the-way, it’s located at such-&-such a dealer; you’ll need to work out a dealer trade. They did & I got the car from them. Never did hear back from the first dealership. So tell me, what did the first dealer do for me? What did the second salesman do other than paperwork?
But that $2000 is coming off the MSRP. $1000 behind invoice on a $35000 Subaru Forester means you’re buying it for about $32,000, which is $3000 off the sticker price.
Agreed, and like you said, can have questionable provenance due to people driving them that don’t give a shit about them because they “aren’t theirs”.
I think what I am running into in this thread is that people on the Dope in general aren’t typical car buyers that would require a high level of interaction on my part to understand how all the technology works in the cars that I sell (for example), or what a Boxer engine is, how assymetrical all wheel drive works or any number of things about Subarus. I completely understand what you are saying…I tell people all the time “hey, it’s your money” and I mean it.
I am not a high pressure sales guy. I am very laid back and I do not speak to customers in word tracks. I speak to people openly and honestly. I guess I’m something of an anachronism in this industry I fell into in 2014 (see? only five years! NOT a jaded salesperson!). I’ve had managers give me shit for not being more aggressive with people when it’s time to figure out how they are going to pay for the car.
Fuck those guys anyways. I never listened to them because I wanted to pave my own way and my CSI scores reflect that. Everywhere I’ve worked I have always had the highest satisfaction scores at the dealership because I take care of my customers.
I don’t want to be an order taker. I want to be an experience deliverer.
It is roughly the cost to the dealer, plus any fees or regional advertising costs the dealer may have paid.
But that number also includes holdback money, which usually ranges from $300-500 per car. That money is paid to the dealer by the manufacturer when he sells the car. There’s also unadvertised “dealer cash” that the manufacturer will grant the dealer in certain scenarios that they can take off the invoice price to be able to sell the car below invoice and not lose money.
Manufacturer rebates/cash also can influence that price positively for the customer.
So yes, buying a car at or below invoice should be every customer’s goal. Not every dealer will do it, depending on the popularity of the new car, and salespeople don’t like selling cars for that amount either because they get paid a “mini” on the car, which is usually $100-150…for sometimes 8 hours of work.
This I do not know the answer to, but I suspect that it’d be on a state by state basis.
It actually IS the cost to the dealer. That is what they pay the manufacturer for the car when they acquire it, but they get a small amount of money back when the car is sold.
You’ve just changed the base from invoice to MSRP.
This is the Dope; we’re supposed to be fighting ignorance here; yet I feel like I’m being played with a four square; obfuscate & confuse [del]us[/del] the customer until they agree to…something.
I live in SE Indiana and work in Ohio. Cars purchased are titled and taxed based on where you live, not where you buy the car. I only mention this because when I worked in Northern Kentucky, many Ohio buyers thought they’d shave a percent off their sales tax buying in KY where the sales taxes are lower than Ohio’s. That said, I’ll have to ask someone in order to properly answer your question.
I’m off work today but getting ready to head in to meet my parents, whom are grabbing a suitcase from me and then getting my 16 and 13 year old sons to take them to…CHICAGO! They are going to go to Northwestern U tomorrow to watch the Duke football game. I’m super jealous of them. I have to work.
How about if you give me $100 and then a year later I have to keep paying taxes and insurance on that $100 you gave me and by the time I get you your $10, I’m now into my loan from you on the order of $150?
Please never accuse me of being disingenuous. I am only reporting things as I know them, I’m not in management, so therefore not privy to what I imagine to be a wealth of more information. What I am saying in this thread is what I’ve managed to glean from 5 years in the business. And what you posted from Edmunds only mentions dealer “credits” and fails to mention costs that the dealer incurs having inventory on the ground, such as taxes, insurance, advertising costs, fees for failing to have sold older units, and so on.
The “base” is ALWAYS sticker price. That’s ALWAYS the starting point regardless of whether it’s a lease or a purchase. MSRP is what the dealer would LIKE you to pay for the car, but so few do anymore that it does indeed seem a fruitless exercise.
And why on Earth would you think I’m engaging in any type of obfuscation here? I feel like I am being as forthright as I am able. I am answering any and all questions as honestly as I can.
In my first set of nested quotes (Post #76, which were all taken in order from earlier in the thread) you first talk about a $1000 discount from invoice, then you switch to a $2000 discount from MSRP. A larger discount but from a higher starting amount, which means the car actually costs more. That’s obfuscation!
What percentage of people really pay MSRP? I bet it’s low.
In the second set, you say that invoice is (roughly) the cost to the dealer, but obviously it isn’t once the various holdbacks/kickbacks/rebates are taken into account. You yourself say a good price is $1000 under invoice; how could a dealer sell a car for less than they paid for it & stay in business?
Management may have some more information than you do but I find it hard to believe that a car salesman does not have the same information available to the public on the Internet from one of the longest-established and most well-known auto sites. It would seem that’s just basic homework for anyone in retail car sales.
You said unequivocally
when it is obviously not the net cost to the dealer for any given unit. All the others costs you mentioned (except unsold fees*) are fixed costs, otherwise known as “the cost of doing business” which have nothing to do with how much a dealer pays for any particular car. Bottom line is that my post and others here demonstrate that the invoice price is not the net unit cost to the dealer, but dealers would like the customer to think so. And if you persist in claiming otherwise, then what should I conclude?
*I have never heard of a manufacturer’s penalty for failing to sell older units. I"ll take your word for it. But it would seem to me that failure to sell a unit is its own penalty since the dealer has to carry the inventory, has cash tied up in the car, and is using space to store a car that he would rather use for cars he can sell. I am also surprised to learn that a dealer would sign a contract that imposes penalties on inventory that the dealer has already paid the manufacturer for. It seems like the manufacturer would have more effective options if it’s in their own interests to move out old stock–like providing an incentive to sell instead of a penalty for not.