The water heater seemed to gradually quit heating. I found that one of the fuses was blown, and replaced both of them.
Now, the water is barely not-icy–not as freezing cold as it was, but definitely NOT hot. Not even lukewarm. I can just barely tell a difference between the hot tap and the cold.
I plan to replace the element next, but if anyone has any other ideas, I’d be happy to hear them.
I’m a bit concerned because the floor around the heater was wet. However, the basement gets a little wet in that area when it’s rainy, and the weathers been dicey, so I’m not sure where the water is coming from.
Thanks for any help…
Best,
karol
What fuses are you talking about? Blown fuses are never a good thing.
bodypoet,from what you are describing, it sounds like only one element of the two in the heater are working. Since the sediment collects in the bottom of the tank, the bottom heating element usually expires first.
It’s imperative that you find out where the leaking water is originating before you replace the element(s). If it’s the heater that’s leaking, you may need another heater.
What is the approx. age of the hot water heater?
There’s not much to work on with a hot water heater - the element/s, thermostat, fittings and the tank housing itself.
A leak would probably only occur around fittings, where the elements enter the tank or the tank could have a crack although this is rare. The drain valve and popoff valve (the one on top) can develop a drip.
Turn off breaker or remove fuse to the hot water heater before starting any repairs.
Replacing the element or both elements if your tank has two is very straightforward and directions usually come in the box with the replacement element. Also, if you have two elements, it is usually the bottom that will short out first as it sometimes gets coated with minerals and deposits that erode away the iron.
It is very likely that the fuse was blown as an element shorted out and may continue to blow until the element is replaced.
Gook Luck!
Yes you can fix it. I have repaired two and am not a plumber. One was the thermostat, the other the element. This site has lots of advice.
Its likely both elements are bad. If it was only one burned out you would still have hot water, just not as much and maybe not as hot, but it would be lots hotter than the cold water tap.
If you have any kind of a leak I would reccomend just replacing it and not fooling around with it.
I’ll have a look at it today and see if I can see any leaks, but the quick once-over I gave it earlier didn’t indicate anything drippy.
Wonder how much a new water hearter would run? I’m afraid to find out, methinks…no budget here for that sort of thing.
My guess is that neither element is working, and that the slight difference in temperatures between the hot water and the cold comes from the water heated being located in a warm part of the house.
A critical question is the age of the unit. If it’s like 15-years old there’s not much point in repairing it. Repairing hot water heaters is doable but is also high risk especially for those with little experience. The risk is in terms of flooded rooms and frayed nerves.
The price of a new unit with installation won’t be that much. Just go down to your local Home Depot and see what they have.
We had ours replaced last March by a heating/plumbing company. Total cost was about $900. If you buy it and install it yourself with the help of a plumber friend, it will be much less.
Water heaters are pretty simple to repair and/or install. There are several factors to consider when making the decision though.
How much is wrong with the heater? How old is it?
I say this because a new heater will cost about $200-250/avg. Lowes has several models ranging from $100 and up.
Last water heater I rebuilt…cost about $100. If it’s a fairly new heater then you may be able to replace just an element. ($25-40 avg.)prices vary depending
If it is an old heater you should rebuild or replace it. It’ll be the other element next…then the thermostat…then…you know what I’m saying.
Maybe temporary fix for cheap and save up for a new one.
Anyway, good luck and don’t worry, you can handle it. Just be careful whenever you are dealing with electricity. Especially when there is WATER nearby.
Shut it down or dissconnect it at the main breaker! I know this sounds frikkin obvious but I could tell ya some shit folks have pulled either by accident or ignorance… :rolleyes:
:eek: $900 jesus…The best damned heater on the market goes for about $500…
When I installed fixtures in apts. for a living I did 30 hot water heaters one day. The job paid $25 for each heater installed.
Damn, its only a couple of flex lines and wires. A really good 40 gallon elect. hot water heater should only cost about $300 plus another $100 for installation at most $200 and that way too damned much IMO. Of course there’s always the chance of complications…whatever
But to do a simple replacement… an hour labor TOPS.
It’s unlikely the whole thing needs replacment. No need to scare the OP! 
If you drain the tank, you can remove the element and usually tell by looking whether it’s any good or not, without using a continuity tester. A tester is bester, though.
A good home repair book is great for this kind of job. And/or a good site like the one offered by don’t askand you should be in business.
(btw, isn’t it called a ‘hot’ water heater? ;))
If the water’s hot then why heat it? redundant huh 
Frame of reference for prices-my Renovation & Repair cost guide quotes a 30G electric unit @ $542.33 but this is based upon using first rate materials. My recommendation brand wise has always been Bradford-White or Ruud.
Beyond the observations regarding element replacement, I’d want to see if either one of the limits have tripped. To access them, you’ll need to shut off power in case of errant fingers or tools. Look for two rectangular plates, one at the bottom and the other about 2/3 of the way up the tank, each perhaps 3" x 5". Remove the screw(s) holding them on, lift a flap of insulation if it’s there, and there should be a piece of translucent whitish plastic covering the electrical connections. The should also be a round hole, dime-sized with a red button behind same.
Push the button.
If it clicks, then the safety thermostat tripped. Copy all of the information off the part, in case it needs to be replaced. Then close everything back up and repower the unit. Most home centers carry replacement t-stats in the same aisle as the elements, and cost is <$25 IIRC.
Another informative link for you to visit. Their diagrams help with stuff you might not have done before. Good luck.
Whirlpool 40 Gallon Energy Smart™ Electric Water Heater
Item #: 188410
Model: EE2H40RD045V
$208.00
It’s got a good rating is efficient and large capacity plus has a nine year warranty. Whirlpool usually has good stuff. I’ve never had to work on one of their water heaters. Rheem IIRC is probably the most popular brand that I’ve dealt with. I don’t know if that’s a GOOD thing though.
And what Dw/C said…trip the safety :smack: right, sometimes the fairly obvious first step is usually the merely WTF? I shoulda done first step.
And since we’re actually talking about diagnosis…check the pop-off to see if it kicked. If the water got too hot it should’ve tripped the safety and/or the pressure release. Sometimes the valve can be bad and cause this to happen. Could be as simple as replacing or resetting the pressure release. Wouldn’t that be great.
Whirlpool 40 Gallon Energy Smart™ Electric Water Heater
Item #: 188410
Model: EE2H40RD045V
$208.00
It’s got a good rating is efficient and large capacity plu
My previous post wasn’t clear regarding the quotation. That $ was for removal and disposal of the afflicted appliance, and installation of a replacement-not merely material charge.
Included is also a new T&P relief valve, along with downtubing to < 6" AFF.
I found and pushed the little red button, with NO resulting click.
I also found, inside the bottom door and nestled right into the space between the insulation and where the wires are screwed into the unit, a very small, fairly dead mouse.
It looks to me like the heater is corroded near the very bottom of the tank, just where it curves from side to bottom. Can’t see any dripping, but there is obviously a leak somewhere.
Do I blame the mouse?
You gotta make and model on that heater? How old is it? How recent is that fairly dead mouse? It is possible he shorted it out. I can’t recall how many times I’ve fixed appliances that were fried because of ants. Yep, ants…
Here we go:
Reliance 501, 52 gallon, Model # 5 52 20RS7. I have no idea how old it is; we’ve lived here nearly 8 years and it was here when we bought the place.
The mouse if only recently dead, by my estimate. Fresh enough to be stinky, fresh enough to interest the cat to such a degree that she grabbed it and took off with it. I’d venture a guess that it died…just about the same time the heater went out.
t-keela, everyone, thank you for helping me troubleshoot.