Heckitty, I don’t know if this will help, but if you prefer to wash entirely in cold, and don’t mind doing the teakettle route for when you do want warm washes and cold rinses, it is *possible *to disable the heating element, so that it doesn’t have the option to warm the cold water you’ve hooked it up to.
To say the least, this WILL void your warranty, if you have one. It may also make the washer inform you until the sun dies that it desperately needs service (which means that it may beep or moan or shoot lasers when you try to use it without “fixing” it first).
If this sounds like an avenue you might pursue, find a local appliance-repair or electrical-wiring person (not an actual shop or the place that sold it - more like a handyman) and beg for assistance. Ask them to temporarily disconnect the heating element, and see if the washer will even work without it, before you get them to nuke it and leave.
Well, what a time I’ve had. I’ve discovered the washer does not in fact have an element to heat the water. That is a very good thing - because I’d definitely send it back if it had.
After I called the store and talked with a salesman who got my blood pressure up (oh ALL new washers have these fabulous features - it’s only the OLDDDD washers that didn’t provide such wonderful features . . . ), never mind my OLDDD washer was all of 8 years old . . .
After I questioned how it could be energy efficient (it only pertains to the amount of water it uses apparently, not the cost to heat water for it); and he wondered how I could tell if the water was scalding, since the door locks when in use (duh, I put my hand on the door AND the heat was emanating beyond the surface) and it’s better to wash in hot water anyhow (slowly I turn), he suggested the water lines might be reversed.
The machine does have an override whereby you can select cold (it is not the default, but I can live with that). I couldn’t tell it was in override as all efforts to run a cycle using cold water only resulted in hot water - in essence ifI’d selected a cycle using the hottest possible water, I then would have had cold- it never occurred to me to try that.
Anyhow, there’s peace in the valley again. I just have to remember to reset the override for every load and I’ll be fine.
Thank you for all the assistance and suggestions. As a note to all who may be in the market - the salesman told me I was “lucky” to get one with an override - apparently the higher end machines don’t offer that at all . . . when did the manufacturers stop listening to consumers?
Well, off to happily do mountains of laundry . . .
Open your schematic Cut the wire from the ATC (temp) sensor to the ATC switch. You will then only be able to use cold from tap, warm and hot water temp options. But will gain full access to hot water fill.
Cutting wires may trigger an error code and may shut down your washer.
But have you tried simply closing the hot water valve fully or partly greatly restricting hot water flow? The y suggestion of sending cold to both also worth a try.
Also my parents had a washer that on ‘cold’ wash setting would add a small amount of hot, water would be still cool, but not ice cold.
That’s exactly the reason why I opted to buy my coworker’s no-bells-and-whistles Kenmore a couple of years ago. One knob for wash type, one knob for water temperature, push a button to start, and that’s it.
Our previous washer (also a Kenmore) rusted out after almost 30 years. Its matching dryer is still going strong.
Given the horror stories I’ve heard about front loaders/non agitators, I’m perfectly happy being old school :shrug: If I want to do a front loading wash, I’ll go down to our local laundromat.