We have a run of galvanized piping in an older part of our house that’s on a slab / crawlspace, so difficult to get to the pipes. We can hear water leaking from the general vicinity of our kitchen sink, but not we nor plumbers we hired could figure out exactly where it’s coming from. They said we need to get leak inspection specialists out here, who are coming tomorrow. We did have the plumbers install hot and cold shutoff valves from the pipes right after our master bathroom, so we have one working bathroom. We found that the cold water line is the culprit, so we can shut off the cold, and only run hot water to the rest of the house.
You can do a lot with hot water only in the rest of the house-- rinse dishes, run the dishwasher, etc. But the washing machine needs hot and cold, and we have a son with OCD who washes clothes several times a week and refuses to get his clothes cleaned at a laundromat because it’s ‘dirty’ or something. Whatever repairs are needed may take weeks to months and require ripping our house up.
I had a thought-- the washer is a newer-style LG. It gives an error message if the water is not filling fast enough (like when the inlet valves get clogged), so I assume it senses how much water is in the tub, and how quickly it fills. As opposed to, somehow metering the water that is let in, in which case my idea won’t work.
I wonder if we could run a load through the wash cycle (which probably uses hot mainly), then when the ‘no water’ IE error message comes on for rinse, pause it and pour in a bucket or two of cold water. Could this work? Or would it break the washer somehow?
I wonder as well. How far is the hot water heater from the washer? Even when the washer asks for hot/cold it might always be getting room temp and it might not make much of a difference.
Yeah, it’s very far away and an adjoining bathroom takes awhile for the hot water to get hot at all. So it might not be a big deal. Once when I cleared the washer inlet filters and accidentally put the hot and cold hoses on wrong I did one wash that way and everything seemed fine (we’re on a well and they get clogged with sediment easily, especially when plumbers are working on the lines).
Seems unlikely to cause any damage. The water is not all that hot, and the materials that the valves and tubes are made from are most likely the same on the hot and cold sides.
I don’t see how. Hot water isn’t anywhere near hot enough to melt the plastic bits inside the washer’s inlet valves, or anything else inside the washer. Usually the hot and cold valves are pretty much identical. the same plastic housing holds both of them, the same type of solenoid is used for both, and the plastic valves themselves are identical for the hot and cold valves.
It might not be very kind to certain types of clothes, as you noted, but you won’t damage the washer itself.
Another thought would be to plan on doing laundry after everyone has showered and drained the hot water tank (or turn the hot water tank temperature down if necessary).
I wish you the best, sounds like a tough situation.
Why not just do that, and then set the washer for cold water only? It’ll think it’s getting the cold water it needs, but will actually be getting water from the hot water line.
Or does it balk at running if nothing’s coming through what it thinks is the hot line even if it’s been told to use only cold water?
(I presume that, like most modern washers, it doesn’t have a hot-hot-hot setting; but it probably has cold-cold-cold settings.)
Most hot water heaters, there’s a cover plate you take off and inside is a thermostat to adjust the temperature. Usually hot water ranges between 130°F and 140°F. The higher range is dangerous if you have babies who can’t tell you in time the water is scalding. (Well, really it’s all pretty dangerous for skin).
First, if you are going to use hot water exclusively, maybe turn it down a tad so it’s not using as much energy.
Second, hot-water hot as others say, is not that big a deal; it’s not close to causing plastics problems, and nobody makes plumbing parts with “caution - keep away from hot water”.
Third - yes, I don’t see why you wouldn’t spend a few buck on a garden hose “Y” if the washer won’t work otherwise. My only warning is be sure the connections are tight. I was mystified by a leak in my washer for months until I figured out that one hose was loose. (But don’t overtighten it - many new machines have plastic fittings and tightening a metal hose on them as hard as you possibly can will damage the threads).
I measured once and found that it takes about a gallon of water at my kitchen sink before the water runs hot. Good thing there’s no water shortage where I am. I assume in drought states the solution would be to collect this in a bucket to pour into the toilet tank… At least for your washer you’ll be filling with hot then cold.
(If you have a disconnected cold water tap at the washing machine, make sure it’s turned off before the plumbers turn the fixed cold water back on… )
You can use a Y. Some washers look for a certain temperature water, so it may cause some minor inconvenience. Dumping some cold water in could help.
Water heaters factory setting is 120 degrees. You will be wasting hot water when you wash clothes, but it won’t hurt the washer. Not sure if it will cause a problem for your clothes.
Do you have an outside hose bib? If so disconnect the cold water line from the wall, besure to turn off the valve or cap the line. Run a good garden hose to the washer then turn on the hose bib and start you load.
I am curious what your son might wash that requires cold water?
Underwear, socks, jeans, khakis, shirts, etc all will be fine in hot water.
I know because I lived in an apartment building that had this same problem (coin-op) and my clothes were fine (they also seemed to have a nuclear powered dryer to the point it was almost scary how hot it got). That said, I didn’t have any fancy/expensive clothes. What I had managed fine. My jeans came out a little tight but nothing I couldn’t deal with and, once put on, they stretched back into shape pretty fast and were not a problem.
I’m not saying don’t fix the issue. You should if you can.
As I mentioned in the OP I recently switched the hot and cold water lines one time I removed them to clear the filters (the hoses have absolutely no marking as to which is which). One load ran before I realized (I double-checked and felt the hose going to the cold inlet was warm) and the wash ran just fine. So I think the washer will probably run ok with only hot water, maybe with adding a bucket of cold to bring down the temp a bit to warm and to help the washer fill- with just hot water it may fill too slowly and we get the dreaded ‘IE’ error code.
What I meant is the washer needs a water line hooked up to the cold to work, yes the water does not need to be cold, however some newer ones may throw a error code as it tries to cool down.
My mom’s washer (which I use, because it’s cheaper than the one at my apartment) had a never-fully-diagnosed failure a couple of years ago, and the upshot is that now it only runs the cold water. So we fill it halfway with hot water from the adjacent utility sink before each load, and let it fill itself the rest of the way. It works.
As already said, there is very unlikely to be any damage to the washer or the cold-water inlet valve from hot water. My concern would be excessive wear and tear to the clothes, and possibly outright damage such as shrinkage, fabric damage, or colour bleed. Many items should only be washed in warm water, not hot, and certainly never rinsed in hot water.
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