I have a mechanical component that is loose. In order to fit in a new part (both pieces are steel), I had to grind down one part, but although I managed to install it, it wiggles unacceptably. Is there any way to get some solder to penetrate the small space (1/16 - 1/8) between the two pieces of steel? I just want enough in there to stabilize it, I don’t really need much in the way of strength there.
What kind of steel? Stainless steel solders ok–we used to solder stainless steel banding straps for C-core transformers. It takes a beefy iron and a relatively active flux, and we used Sn-100 (pure tin) solder. I don’t know if standard 60-40 will do. However, other kinds of steels don’t solder so well, because oxides form too readily; these need to be welded. Unless you need electrical or thermal conductivity here, I would use something like JB Weld, which is a very strong 2-part epoxy designed for repairing metal items.
I’m not sure what kind of steel, just that it is not stainless. I have not information about it’s origin. I would weld it, but I need to remove one of the parts periodically for cleaning.
I’d rather not have to resort to shims of some kind. 1: Shims suck. 2: This has to withstand repeated heavy shock-vibration.
Don’t suppose you can do a closeup photo of the part in question? Might help us come up with a solution. Solder won’t work at all if it’s not stainless steel. The solder will just ball up and roll away, like water on a waxed car.
At work I solder all types of steel, including stainless. I would recommend a flux called stay-bright. it is basically hydrochloric acid with zinc chloride in it. it is nasty stuff, but you can get 60/40 to wet most anything(barring alumnium and titanium) with it. You might also try a solder called bridgit, which contains nickle and is good for filling gaps. I would recommend a propane torch instead of an iron for soldering large pieces. good luck!
Although, it just occurred to me that using a silicone RTV might do the trick. It’s got decent adhesive properties, resists shock and vibration well, is available in formulations for hi-temp applications and is relatively easily removed.
here is a link to JW harris: http://www.jwharris.com/jwprod/solderalloys/#1
they make bridgit and http://www.jwharris.com/welref/faq/flux_chart/
stay-clean
The red circle shows the gap I’d like to fill. The stuff you can see in part of the gap is some plumbing flux I had tried to use on the off-chance that would work.
Yeah, if you don’t want to go through the trouble of using SummoningDark’s suggestion–not a bad one, just possibly more trouble than it’s worth, IMO–I think some RTV will do nicely, especially since you indicate mechanical strength isn’t a requirement.
If it’s mild steel, the Stay Brite silver solder SummoningDark linked to will work great. Use Stay Brite silver solder and flux.