That sounds like the bolts for the caliper bracket. Those puppies go on tight – 85 ft lb torque.
It’s a standard bolt. Match the diameter, pitch, length, and strength (8.8 or 10.9 – see chart). If you’re lucky, you may find them at a hardware store.
Caliper bracket bolts are not a normal replacement item. I wouldn’t expect any auto parts store catalog to list them. I wouldn’t even be surprised if the dealer didn’t stock them. Take the old bolt with you and match it as I described above.
Yeah, finding my notes from last time, they have a 93ftlb spec.
And yes, you’re right. It’s the bracket that came loose. Apologies if I wasn’t clearer on that. I’ve always removed the bracket (with caliper) instead of removing the pins.
Dafuq? I just went out and pulled the other bracket bolt. it was finger tight.
I’ll happily admit that my torque wrench may be inaccurate, but those things sure as hell were tighter than that. I wonder if my car is trying to commit suicide, and take me with it.
There’s no need to remove the brackets if just changing pads. I only remove them if I’m replacing rotors.
A bolt that’s significantly less tight than called for can vibrate loose.
Its okay, as long as you don’t leave them in there.
There’s usually a brake specialist parts/repair shop in a reasonable sized town …
they’ll have the pin.
It’s not a pin, and it’s not a specialized brake part. It’s a regular bolt, probably about 10x1.5x25 mm.
The caliper didn’t come loose from the caliper bracket. The bracket, with caliper attached, came loose from the knuckle.
Were they originally installed with locking compound? Does the service manual spec replacement of the bolts or some loctite? That, or your wrench is way off.
Good you caught it before any real damage… of any kind.
Check the front brakes, ASAP, and use Locktite from now on.
From post #19: “I had a professional do the front…”
Just so you know:
A torque wrench is only accurate in measuring tightening torque WHILE THE BOLT/NUT IS BEING TURNED. Using it on a bolt that’s already tight will give a much higher reading than what the bolt was actually tightened to due to the force required to overcome static friction. Make sure the pointer or clicker registers WHILE TURNING THE BOLT.
YOU CANNOT MEASURE WHAT AN ALREADY TIGHTENED BOLT WAS TORQUED TO WITH A TORQUE WRENCH. You MUST first loosen the bolt (about one turn), then retorque it in order to know that it’s tightened to the proper torque.
When more than one bolt is involved, it’s best to tighten them in stages. For a spec of 85 ft lb’s, I’d first tighten them all to about 25, then all to about 55, then all to 85.
Dang. That was going to be my guess, until people started talking about shock absorbers and parking brakes and stuff.
Glad you found it.