I own a 1991 Sentra, mileage 78,000. The car has been garaged for the past six years, not driven, not even started. I bought it in 1998 from original owner, mileage then 49,000, and it’s been an excellent car for my modest needs–reliable, low-maintenance.
My problem:
Like a dope, I didn’t plan to put the car in storage so I didn’t do whatever one should do, which I assume includes draining fluids, etc. I simply started to walk/bus more, drive less, then drive not at all…and just let the car sit there.
To get this car running again, I’d need to:
1–Tow car to repair shop
2–Drain all fluids, flush/clean those systems, add new fluids
3–Install new battery
4–Install four new tires (due to age)
5–Replace timing belt/chain, which I understand should be done at about current 78k mileage.
6–whatever else I don’t know about.
So my options are to spend the $$ to get it running; sell it as is; or donate it.
What would you do? I know this car has much life left in it, given its low mileage and solid history. But would it be worth it to fix?
If it were me and I liked the car, I’d keep it. It might not need as much work as you’d think to get it running again.
1 - Rather than towing it, if you’re reasonably mechanically minded, try starting it? You’ll almost certainly need to drain the fuel and replace the battery, both jobs shouldn’t be too difficult. Once you’ve done that, there’s no real reason you shouldn’t be able to get it running again. The advantage here is that you’ll soon be able to figure out if there’s much wrong with it, for the cost of a new battery and a can of fuel.
2 - Yes, that seems reasonable.
3 - Yes, see point 1.
4 - How old are the tyres? What condition are they in? If they look in good condition, haven’t been sitting flat, and assuming they weren’t ancient when you laid the car up, they’re probably fine. Check them over for cracks/bulges and the like. Age related wear on tyres is generally due to UV damage, which won’t really apply if your car has been in a garage. If the tyres were good six years ago, they’re probably still alright now.
5 - Yes, I’d recommend that. A snapped belt or chain can destroy your engine (depending on the type of engine).
6 - Once you’ve got it up and running again, you should find it to be in more or less the same condition as when you last used it. The main issues you’ll find will be related to rubber seals and hoses, which my have dried out and cracked. There shouldn’t be anything too expensive that wasn’t there before.
You’ll probably end up spending somewhere in the region of $1000 or so (if you need new tyres) - maybe half that if you do all the work yourself. It seems like a lot, but then you’ll end up with a car that you know is good and reliable - you won’t find a $1000 car anywhere that you could definitely say that about.
If you need a car, I think fixing it is a no-brainer. I agree that between the timing belt and the tires and other miscellaneous fluid changes it’ll probably be $1000 or maybe a bit more depending on how much a timing belt change is on this car. Either way, a vastly better option than buying an equivalent priced used car.
If you don’t need a car, you’re probably going to want to get it to the point that you can at least start the engine and drive it around the block. Selling a car that isn’t demonstrably in running condition is difficult. But that’d probably just need a new battery (or you could try to see if you can start it with jumper cables), maybe some fresh gas, and it might be nice to change the oil.
Donating it would be good if you simply want it gone, but the tax write-off isn’t going to be much (and obviously you need to itemize.)
It’s really low mileage I would get it running. Change the gas and battery – those are easy things to do at home. I’ll bet it will fire right up. Then drive to the nearest Jiffy Lube and get the coolant and oil changed. And timing belt. Does it have air in the tires?
Nobody has brought up the condition of the fuel in the tank. Standing for 6 years with some fuel in it, some has evaporated and some has possibly turned to thick goo (lacquer). I’d want to ensure that isn’t the case before trying to force fuel through the system on the first attempt to start.
Also, replace fuel filter.
Flush and replace brake fluid too. That stuff soaks up moisture and then the brake lines rust. So I’d add that to the list you’re keeping the car.
I don’t know what the manual says but I thought most people didn’t change the timing belt till around 100,000 miles or a little after. I mean its kind of close on the mileage but it seems like you could put it off for quite a while.
Timing chains can last a lot longer than belts (yes, 100k miles or more), but belts are normally changed around 60/70k miles or so. Particularly in this case, if it’s a belt, then it’s a rubber belt that’s been sat in the same position for six years - it could well have developed cracks around the parts where it bends around the sprockets.
If it’s a chain, I’d be tempted to leave it for a while, if it’s a belt then I’d definitely change it - for peace of mind as much as anything.
Fresh gas may be required, but there’s no need to change engine oil, transmission oil, or engine coolant. They don’t deteriorate just sitting there. Brake fluid replacement may be wise, especially in a humid climate, but is not urgent.
Timing belt replacement intervals have ranged from 40k decades ago to over 100k miles nowadays. It should be looked up for each specific vehicle. That said, it’s probably prudent to replace one that’s over ten years old.
Replace the battery, add some gas, and see if it starts.
Timing chain:
Yes, turns out it is a chain, not a belt, which is good news. Belt replacement due about 75-80k; chain replacement maybe 100k. I can delay that expense.
Tires:
They’re low-mileage but about 15-years-old. My understanding is that age makes tires brittle, thus dangerous.
I’ll fix it–the car’s history and low mileage are the clinchers.
I’ve kept a lot of older cars going for a long time, we had a Villager van that reached 315,000 miles. My comments…
My only concern would be if it was stored in a wet area or where moisture could condense due to environmental temperature changes. Look for rust on the underside and under the hood before you spend too much money. Disregarding body rust, surface rust on the undercarriage can make mechanical systems nearly unrepairable. Similarly the brakes could be rusted and be draggy for a while or need work.
He said it’s been sitting for 6 years though. I’ve had motor oil go bad (separate and get all foamy) just sitting on the shelf in my garage that long. I’m pretty sure the coolant is going to be past its shelf life too.
I agree none of it is urgent to getting the car moving, but it should definitely be done before the car gets put back into regular service.
Facts missing:
Have you even put a key in it to try to start it?
Are you handy with installing a battery?
Tires are flat? No air compressor? Time for tow truck if that.
If you have the money to do all of the above, yes it’s probably worth it since low-mileage and being garaged. Find a mechanic you can trust.
If you feel like donating to a worthy cause I will take it off your hands for a reasonably priced offer of lunch with your friends and you at your favorite restaurant.
You have the ability to get a decent, usable car for no more than $1500.
Where else can you get that deal?
Yes, drain/flush fuel and transmission fluids.
See current expert re brake, clutch, steering fluid - methinks that modern systems don’t need to bleed and re-fill - at least not unles the levels have fallen.
The biggie: the timing belt is going to be the biggest cost - as in: as much as everything else combined.
First, get it to drive around the block before sinking that kind of money in it.
OBVIOUSLY - THERE ARE ENGINE DESIGNS (INTERFERENCE/NON-INTERFERENCE?) WHICH WILL SELF-DESTRUCT IF THE CHAIN BREAKS.
If this is such a design, maybe replace it anyway.
The biggie is the age - esp. in CA, pre-95’s are exempt from at least some of the (now bizarre) smog requirements.
I got to talking to a fellow building up a super car - spending $1000’s on this thing.
He is building it on a '73. Why? In CA, that is about the newest car that is completely exempt from smog.
A friend of mine was given a car that had sat for several years. It had not been run at all during that time. He did what ever it took to get the car operational: filled the gas tank, new battery, and a couple of other minor things.
And then he drove it to the next city, about four or five hours away. The engine seized. Why? The engine gaskets had dried out.
I don’t know exactly what he should have done, but probably should have run the engine a couple of times for a few minutes, shutting it off before restarting it. That would have allowed the engine gaskets to absorb the oil.
So be careful how you run it the first few times. Maybe go on a car forum and ask them.
Just be careful there too. You can get more wrong answers then you can get correct answers.
The dry seals is one I wouldn’t have thought of (I would be suspicious of head gasket), but I’d take it easy until I was certain that the brakes were not going to seize, the fuel line isn’t going to misbehave, etc.
I don’t have any idea as to “how do you find this expertise?” about firing up such a car.
But do see what you can find - at the very least, find a shop manual for the make/model/engine/transmission.
(almost all manuals for make/model will cover all possible engine and transmissions).
As a matter of interest, we maintain my late Dad’s 1988 Nissan Sentra as a spare car for visitors, family etc. 130,000 miles. It likes oil but has no leaks or blue smoke and plenty of power. The thing just won’t die.
It doesn’t get much use but provided the battery is charged (on the charger right now) it starts every time and is utterly reliable.
The car is always garaged but the window rubbers look dry and I suspect that a few days parked in the rain would reveal some leaks.
There is every chance you have a good car and I agree with other posters that it will be simple to test it out. Borrow a battery or jump start with cables and see what happens.
If it’s a chain, which I think the O has confirmed, there is no issue there.
At the minimum, before trying to drive the car, I would:
Drain the oil and replace. Water from condensation inside the engine has almost certainly accumulated in the 6 years it has sat.
Check the brake fluid, Not just the level, check the color. I’ll bet it’s black. If so, flush and replace. It is contaminated with water if dark colored.
Check coolant levels.
Check tire pressure. More on this in a second.
Check your gas gauge. If you have some empty space in there, mix some fresh gas with the old stuff. Your old gas has lost much of it’s volatility sitting there, if not turned to varnish. This may get you started. Maybe not though, I’m betting your injectors are clogged.
If you do start the car, let’s get back to those tires. These tires are NOT safe. No way. Tires have about a 6-7 year life before UV damage begins breaking down the rubber. IF they hold air, and IF you can drive the car, drive straight to a tire store at a moderate speed, and get new tires. Seriously people, tires and brakes are the two most critical things on your car, DO NOT cheap out on those two.
