I don’t understand the purpose of a tachometer in an automatic. Well, maybe a sporty car, but what’s the point in an econobox?
My last car had a g-force gauge. Kind of hidden in the menu. Completely useless
I live 4 houses from a street-end intersection. When I start my Subaru and back out of my (not long suburban) drive, I shift into drive. When heading towards the street end, the screen is off well before I hit the intersection. Mild irritant, but awfully mild.
Back in the mid 90s I drove a friend to the airport, we took their car, a Honda Accord. I drove it back to their house, got out, and tried to push down the driver door lock. I pushed harder. I pounded on it, swearing. Then his mom came out of the house and was like WTF are you doing to my car?
You could only lock the driver’s door (when it was open) by putting the key into the lock on the driver’s door and turning it. It was lockout prevention in the era before remote keyless entry was ubiquitous and $500 replacement keyfobs were a thing.
Not if it kept a record of the highest values. “Look, here’s where I did 0.9 in a turn! And here’s where I did 12g when I hit the oak tree!”
Reminds me of the times when we glued 3 dollar replacement keys somewhere on the underside of the car… Just in case…
My first car was a 1990 Honda CRX (a two door hatchback), and it had a similar feature. The work around was that you could lock the door if you first lifted up on the door handle. It became habit for me to lock my door this way as soon exited my car. That stopped when I once managed to lock myself out of my own car while the keys were still In the ignition and it was running.
Many times I’ve sat waiting to make a left turn while a driver at my 3:00 is also waiting for an interval in oncoming traffic to make their left turn, only for them to make a u-turn. I wish there was a separate u-turn blinker.
I’m hoping you’re in a drive-on-the-left country. :eek:
But yeah, some warning that someone intends to make a U-turn would be nice. Otherwise we’re all accelerating up on their butt just as they stomp on the brakes to start their hard turn.
People usually signal left before making a u-turn.
Kind of similar, but my Toyota Camry is an automatic with a tach. It also has paddle shifters on the steering wheel for when you want to feel even more sporty. The problem with them is that they also turn with the steering wheel, so the most common time when you would want to up/down shift is when going around corners, when your hands will nearly always be out of position to use the paddles. Totally useless except for straight line drag racing I suppose, when I’m trying to impress everyone with my…Camry. Ladies, I’m available…
A Camry with paddle shifters? Does it have racing stripes, front dam, and rear wing, too?
Don’t they have to prove the lights were on? Innocent until proven guilty and all that?
To make only one instrument cluster working-parts unit for the factory assembly line parts bin, that will then be put in similar size vehicles in and for markets around the world, including some where they still use manuals, behind slightly different dial and pointer faces. Even in fully virtual gauge displays the makers tend to still keep the tach in the base-default mode.
Which BTW, 40+ years ago a tach was NOT widely standard in American automatic full or midsize vehicles.
Huh?
My actually sporty car has an 8 speed auto and paddle shifters. Which are attached to the steering wheel and turn with it.
Since my hands turn with the wheel too, that means the shifters remain in the same position relative to my hands. Exactly as they should.
Any speed slow enough to be hand-over-handing the wheel is already first or maaaybe 2nd, gear. Before I need to shift again the wheel’s within 1/2 turn of straight & my hands are back in standard position.
That’s how I have to lock my door, but it’s not a feature - the locking system doesn’t respond to my keyfob anymore. (It still blinks and honks.)
I have a question about some weird keyfob behavior. Not really worth its own thread, so hope it’s OK here.
While on a trip, both keyfobs stopped working. No response to lock/unlock buttons, and pushing the Start button on the dash produced a “Fob not Detected” warning.
Note: one of the fobs is permanently stored in the truck and not normally used, so their failures could have happened at different times.
I checked every fuse that the manual/youtube/internet recommended and found all were OK. Replaced batteries on both fobs, with no improvement. No response to the door lock fob buttons, and unable to start the engine without placing the fob in contact with the Start button. Tried this multiple times over a 15 minute period and gave up.
After traveling a few more hours, both fobs started working again, and 4 days later they continue working just fine.
Any ideas? Why would they both fail, unless some fuse or link in the truck had tripped? Why would they both “heal” again, but only after a couple of hours?
the “alter ego” of the FOB is an antenna (or multiples?)… maybe the problem was more on the receiving end and not so much on the sending one?
Maybe a failing battery? A car’s electronics can start acting weird if the car’s battery gets too weak.
That’s the best theory I could come up with (although vague on details). Since the backup fob is stored in a Faraday container before going into its hiding place, it seems unlikely there was a long period of synchronizing between the fobs and the truck. I tried all the other stuff that was on the suspect fuses and all of it was working (power windows, power door lock buttons in the door itself).
I don’t think this was the problem. Truck battery is new with freshly cleaned connectors, and it started the truck OK using just the touch (RFID?) method with the starter button.
My wife pointed out that I drove past Kenneth Copeland’s compound on my route, and maybe he was sending Healing Rays out to his flock, and my truck got in the way. I’m going with that theory for now. 