Car fixable after accident?

[kenobi_65]

@Sumatra5

My other worry is the Kia’s not sure about the other cars but previous to the 2016 models they were involved in the Takata airbag recall.

I wouldn’t view the airbag recall as a knock against Kia, or their product quality; something like 42 million U.S. vehicles, under 19 different brands / automakers, are part of the recall. Both my Ford Mustang and my wife’s Mazda CX-7 were recalled for it.

Having a “safety-related defect” taken care of should not cost the car owner anything – that’s part of the deal with such a recall (even if you aren’t the original owner, as I understand it).

[seal_cleaner]

FWIW, we bought my daughter a new Chevy Spark for under $13,000 last year. Pretty dependable, pretty good warranty.

[Sumatra5]

@CookingWithGas

I agree but I think you mean “collision.” Comprehensive protects against non-driving losses, like theft, vandalism, acts of God. Collision covers you if you have an accident and do not have a claim against another driver (i.e., your fault, or no-fault insurance).

Then what did the other driver get ticketed for? This might not be your fault, depending on the laws in your state. In some states the other driver would have been held at fault for failing to prevent a preventable accident.

This doesn’t make sense. The tow shop has no right to the title, unless they are offering to buy your car for scrap value. You can do whatever you want with your car, but if it’s not drivable it limits your options. If you don’t want them to keep it, then you would have to arrange to have your car towed somewhere else, which will cost more in money and trouble than it’s worth. But first ask them what they would offer you for salvage value.

So I went to the tow place today and signed over my title. Total I owed for tow and storage was $75 which they wrote off due to signing of title. They said they would not give me money for it because its not worth anything when it gets scrapped per ton. It will go to an auction and after 3 it will be scrapped. I went out to the yard afterwards and saw someone bent my tire back in place. Should I even of got rid of my car? I’m wondering if its drive able now? The car looked fine from underneath as far as I could tell! I confirmed the driver side door although not hit cant open from the inside when unlocked. Its jammed! The other guy got a ticket for no insurance (he will get insurance in a week police said) and I got a ticket because i’m at fault. I made a left turn out of a parking lot crossing 4 way street looking both ways thinking it was clear to go. I did not see the other car it came out of no where!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/igfoqh7z4y0tfom/2017-08-14%2015.58.10.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z49ywmx069po6kz/2017-08-14%2015.57.57.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ndca3qm7cymfph/2017-08-14%2015.58.26.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/l1ivmyw4bxxaa4s/2017-08-14%2015.58.03.jpg?dl=0

[Sumatra5]

@EdelweissPirate

Ok, this is a weird backwater of terminology, IMHO. Your Alero is (well, was) of unibody construction, and as such has no frame. Buses and trucks are typically built using body-on-frame construction, but virtually no passenger cars are built this way anymore.

That said, I hear body shop people say things like “it’s totaled…the frame rails are bent” all the time when talking about unibody cars. As far as I can tell, they’re referring to major, otherwise-unnamed structural components of the unibody (as opposed to, say, the A pillars or the fender). “Floor pan,” as bob++ used it, is both colloquially accurate and technically accurate, IMHO. A twisted floor pan would be an enormous pain to cut out and replace, as would a “bent frame” on a body-on-frame vehicle.

A unibody car chassis has stiffening members (heh!) built into the unibody. These aren’t technically frame rails or parts of a frame, but I understand why it’s convenient to refer to them by that name. It makes things confusing for people who don’t know the lingo, though.

Sometimes these idiosyncratic terms can cause real frustration, especially in discussions with people who have only a shallow understanding of automobile construction. I once had an argument with an insurance adjuster over whether a fender was dented. He was accusing me of lying when I said it was dented. This confused me because we were both looking at the same photo, and there was an obvious dent above the rear wheel well. After ten minutes I realized that the adjuster didn’t believe that rear fenders existed, and that the portion of the body covering the back wheel could only be referred to as a quarter-panel. In his world, fenders (which he still called “front fenders”) enclosed front wheel wells while quarter panels (“rear quarter panels,” to him) enclosed rear wheel wells.

Never mind that using the term “front fender,” as this genius did, implies the existence of rear fenders. Also, sports cars often sport “fender flares” to cover wide wheels. People who know cars would understand what you meant if you said “quarter panel flares,” but they’d think you had no idea what you were talking about.

“Fender” is a slightly outdated term, but it’s nearly synonymous with “quarter panel” in most contexts. Frankly, I’d argue that a competent insurance adjuster should have understood what I meant in context. Part of the problem was that he kept saying (stridently!) “I don’t see a dented fender in that picture.” We were able to move on when he finally admitted that, while he saw no dented fender, there was a dented quarter panel in the photo before us.

The upshot is that your unibody car is, unfortunately, totaled. The unibody is irreparably bent, and you’re likely to hear “the frame is bent,” which essentially means “not economically repairable” regardless of whether your vehicle has a unibody. Also, insurance adjusters are often jerks who don’t know much about cars or driving.

Thank you for the educational lesson on vehicles and the mechanics of fenders and unibodies. Well I handed over my title to the tow yard today. I have been told by many people the car isn’t worth fixing it would cost more than the car is worth. Also it is probably out of alignment and will never drive the same again not to mention possibly floor pan damage. I included new photos in another persons post. I probably made the wrong decision on giving up the title but I didnt see all these replies until now that i’m back home.

[Sumatra5]

@Weisshund

Yes you can fix it.

No i have no way of knowing if the unibody is bent or not just from the pics, i’ve seen worse and yet the frame measured straight, ive also seen slightly bent that was perfectly drivable.

but the damage i see in the pic can be fixed.

Rim i would have spun to see it it is bent (probably is. but you never know)
You can get the entire rear axle assembly from a local pick N pull.

Are you fixing or having fixed?

I gave an update below and included new photos from the tow yard. I signed over my title they wouldn’t give me money for the car. I question now weather it was drive able as the tire was bent back into place. I looked under the car it was dark but from what I could tell nothing was broken. I hope I didnt make the mistake of signing the title over. I owed $75 in fees storage. The police sent it to the lot because at the time I couldnt drive it the car wouldn’t move. Also to mention driver side door doesnt open from inside even though it was not hit. I unlocked it and confirmed this before collecting my belongings. Thru the 7 years I had owned the car (mostly in Illinois where im from) I put probably $10-$15,000 into it! Recently within last 2 years all new tires, radiator, engine mounts and some sensors. The car died once last month and ive had to take it into the shop over the past 4 months.

[Sumatra5]

@Tired_and_Cranky

You are absolutely correct. I meant to say that Sumatra5 didn’t need collision or comprehensive and somehow I got stuck on referring to comprehensive. Thanks for the correction.

We’ve crossed into IMHO territory here but it seems that you want a new car. You might want to think about what the least expensive option to serve your needs is. I doubt that’s a new car.

If you have money for a down payment, ask yourself how good a car you can buy with just the down payment money, saving a little for taxes and registration fees. If you shop around and you are flexible about what kind of car you buy, you can probably get a decent used car for $2,000 to $3,000. It might not be the fanciest or the most prestigious, but you’ll save money on financing and insurance. Set that money aside for the inevitable car repair and you’ll probably be far ahead.

0% financing generally comes with new cars. Do you really need a new car? If a used car lot offered me 0% financing, I would assume that the down payment they are asking for is equal to the value of the car and the rest of the payments they collect are just profit. I would never buy a car from a place like that.

The money you put into the car over the years is irrelevant. It’s a sunk cost. There is nothing you can do now to get that money back. You shouldn’t use the fact that you spent money on the car to justify spending too much to fix it now. The $1,200 Alero I mentioned above? It has tires and brakes too. So do lots of other $2,000 used cars. I would recommend finding one of those that doesn’t need thousands of dollars in repairs.

This also probably belongs in IMHO, but the car was towed away. You likely owe a tow charge for that. The car has also been stored somewhere. You likely owe storage fees for that, and they are probably accumulating daily.

How much do you owe in tow and storage fees? I don’t know. Did you sign a tow contract? If so, check how much you owe since the day it was towed there.

If you didn’t sign a tow contract, is it because the police ordered the car towed? If so, how much are the tow company and the storage lot allowed to charge? This is probably more money than you would have paid if you’d hired the tow company yourself.

So, you owe the tow company and the storage yard money. How much? Can you pay this amount and if you did, how would you get the car out of their storage lot?

If you can find a scrapyard willing to pay you for the car and pick it up from the tow yard in a timely manner, and if the car is worth more than the accumulated tow and storage fees, you might be able to sell the car for cash, pay off the tow and storage fees, and then pocket the difference. This will be aggravating and probably won’t net you much cash. If the scrapyard says they can pick the car up on Wednesday, you’ll owe two more days’ storage fees. If they fail to pick it up on Wednesday, you’re stuck.

If the tow and storage fees are worth more than the car, the tow lot might be telling you that they will be willing to take the title to the car to satisfy the fees you owe. This could make the most sense for you. If you want to do this, read the contract they offer you carefully. Make sure that the tow lot agrees in writing that signing over the title will satisfy all the tow fees, storage fees, and other fees and debts that you owe them. You don’t want to sign over the title and then have them come after you for more money because they didn’t get enough money selling your car to cover what you owe them.

If you have little income, a new car doesn’t sound like a great idea. You need an affordable, reliable used car. Best wishes getting something that suits your needs.

Ok I’m going to try to cover everything that has been talk about and asked. Since I have no family and friends where I live it’s hard for me to get around. At my old job I knew a few coworkers. I contacted one of them and they were able to take me to the tow place. I ended up signing over my title to them. I was given a receipt nothing else and the total I would have owed was $75. I think the tow was police ordered because my car was not drivable and I was at fault. The other person his car bumper came off and he drove it home. He did not have insurance so he got a ticket for that. I turned across 4 lane street from a parking lot looked both ways and thought it was clear to go. The car came out of nowhere and I didn’t see it! I’m a very good driver and in the 7 years I had my 2001 Olds Alero I didnt get any tickets or accidents. Im going to traffic school so ticket wont go on record. The cars value is under $1,000. My claim will still be on file with Geico but they wont increase my rates as I have accident forgiveness. Scrapyards quoted me $75-$125. Insurance question… Am I considered a high risk driver with just one accident on record and no tickets?

When I went in the back to get my belongings I saw someone bent the rear wheel straight so I question if the car is now drive able? From underneath I didn’t see damage but it was really dark. I confirmed the driver side door cant be opened from the inside even tho wasn’t hit. Many people have told me including my dad said that the car even if it could be repaired will never drive correctly and I myself am kind of scared to get into a car thats been in an accident. Besides I had made another service appointment prior to the accident to bring the car back in. I had the Air Intake Valve replaced and the car still surges sometimes. Maybe it’s for the best I don’t have this car anymore and eventually can be relief! I will NEVER buy another Alero again no way!!! Yes 0% financing is for new cars I would not make payments on a very used car I know not to do that.

As for buying a replacement car i’m unsure what i’m going to do. Ive gone 5 years without a car before living back in Illinois prior to 2010 and it wasn’t easy but I was living at home and had friends and family to help. The amount of savings I have I can buy a used car but not reliable one. I want something new or newer 1-2 years old because it will have a warranty and should be more reliable. I don’t want to buy someone else’s problems in other words. I know someone that has a Chevy Spark and they have had nothing but problems with it. I will not ever buy another american car after the Alero. I had many issues with it over the years in/out of shops not to mention getting ripped off at the stealership! I was put in a bad situation at the time and was desperate for a car. I drove less than 5,000 miles a year and manly ran errands in town. Don’t know if it helps but I now live in Arizona living out here without a car won’t be easy!

My health insurance offers transportations for my medical appointments although a hassle having to call them in and wait times it’s free. I’ve never had to do this before but i’m thankful for this! As for getting to other places i’ll have to figure that out. When it comes to planning things out i’m very poor at doing so. I cant figure out the public bus system and all the routes for example. I’m still trying to figure if that Enterprise Car Share program is for students only or everyone. Zipcar has terrible reviews and read its a bad company to deal with.

For the time being i’m going to keep paying my $50 insurance so I wont have a lapse in coverage. Use public transport the light rail mostly and try to get neighbors (despite their busy schedules) to help me out to get groceries. I knew people that didnt have cars and when I worked i’d give them rides I didn’t mind at all!

[Sumatra5]

@kenobi_65

I wouldn’t view the airbag recall as a knock against Kia, or their product quality; something like 42 million U.S. vehicles, under 19 different brands / automakers, are part of the recall. Both my Ford Mustang and my wife’s Mazda CX-7 were recalled for it.

Having a “safety-related defect” taken care of should not cost the car owner anything – that’s part of the deal with such a recall (even if you aren’t the original owner, as I understand it).

I’m aware of the other cars involved in the recall! My concern is with buying such even if the repair has been made who’s to say the airbags could be defective? Recalls do not cost an owner any expense except time to go to a dealership to bring it in and repair or replace the part.

[Sumatra5]

@Quartz

I had a Kia for a while. They’re good cars, though mine was on the basic side. I would never buy a new car if I were in your position. Get one that’s a few years’ old and has suffered most of the depreciation.

Everyone seems to be driving new or modern cars these days and I’ve always had my heart set on eventually buying a new one. But I’ve also thought about how much i’d save if I don’t even have a car with the amount of money I put into my Alero over the years I had it. The car always frustrated me greatly! I’m surprised during my move it made it across country but it was in worse condition (without my knowledge) prior to any repairs I made in Arizona.

[Sumatra5]

Also to mention in many past years while back in Illinois I bought really cheap cars $700-$2,000 all of which had lasted less than 6 months. My Alero was overpriced at more than $5k at the time of purchase dont remember how much I paid in 2010 but It was a ripoff. I had to bring it in for repair less than 24 hours after purchase thankfully the large Nissan dealership took responsibility and paid the repair charges for transmission and defective horn. But yeah the car was a total lemon during my ownership! If i’m going to ever buy another car again its going to be new.

I’ll figure this out i’m sure!

[kenobi_65]

@Sumatra5

My concern is with buying such even if the repair has been made who’s to say the airbags could be defective?

The odds of the replacement airbag being defective are greater than zero, yes, but frankly, that’s true of any part in any car. Takata airbags were (and are) in a lot of cars, and it seems likely to me that given the financial hit they took from the first round of bad parts, Takata is likely taking great pains to make sure that the new parts aren’t defective (since, if they were to mess it up again, it might well doom their business).

[Tired_and_Cranky]

[quote=“Sumatra5, post:23, topic:793533”]

So I went to the tow place today and signed over my title. Total I owed for tow and storage was $75 which they wrote off due to signing of title.

@Sumatra5

Scrapyards quoted me $75-$125.

You owed $75 to the tow yard. Did that include the tow charge itself and the storage? The car was worth no more than $125. It sounds like the most you lost was $50. It’s not the end of the world.

I’m surprised the scrapyards offered so little for the car. One scrap yard near my parents offers $400 for any complete car regardless of condition. I think that’s less than the scrap metal content of most cars.

@kenobi_65

The odds of the replacement airbag being defective are greater than zero, yes, but frankly, that’s true of any part in any car. Takata airbags were (and are) in a lot of cars, and it seems likely to me that given the financial hit they took from the first round of bad parts, Takata is likely taking great pains to make sure that the new parts aren’t defective (since, if they were to mess it up again, it might well doom their business).

Generally I’d say this is but Takata seems to be a different animal. Automakers are now recalling some replacement Takata airbags that have the same defect.

The Millions of Airbags Takata Replaced Could Still Be Dangerous

https://www.washingtonpost.com/national/mazda-recalls-nearly-80k-vehicles-to-replace-faulty-air-bags/2017/08/15/dff60614-81bd-11e7-9e7a-20fa8d7a0db6_story.html

Takata is already bankrupt so the risk to their business is largely irrelevant.

http://www.reuters.com/article/us-takata-bankruptcy-usa-idUSKBN1AP2JF

Weirdly, Takata is trying to use its bankruptcy to help automakers escape their own liability for putting defective airbags in their cars. I’m not a bankruptcy lawyer but I don’t see how the bankruptcy of a supplier should protect the automakers for their liability.

http://www.autonews.com/article/20170809/OEM10/170809727/takata-seeks-to-suspend-airbag-victims-lawsuits-against-carmakers

[Quartz]

@Sumatra5

Everyone seems to be driving new or modern cars these days

So what?

[Kimballkid]

@Sumatra5

I went out to the yard afterwards and saw someone bent my tire back in place. Should I even of got rid of my car

They probably just bent it back enough to make it easier to move it around the lot, it’s probably still not road-worthy.

@Sumatra5

Thru the 7 years I had owned the car (mostly in Illinois where im from) I put probably $10-$15,000 into it! Recently within last 2 years all new tires, radiator, engine mounts and some sensors. The car died once last month and ive had to take it into the shop over the past 4 months.

At some point, as with most things, you just have to admit defeat and quit pouring money into something. With your car, I would think that would have been about $10,000 ago.

@Sumatra5

Everyone seems to be driving new or modern cars these days

I don’t have a new car, my newest vehicle is a 2004. I guess, in some sense, that would be considered modern. I’ve had new cars before, my last one being a 2012, and they are nice but you have to do what is best for you and your financial situation.

[Folly]

I forgot what they called it, but I switched to a ‘no car’ or some sort of maintenance policy with my insurance when I was between cars in order to maintain coverage history. It was cheaper than a ‘with car’ policy.

[kenobi_65]

@Kimballkid

At some point, as with most things, you just have to admit defeat and quit pouring money into something. With your car, I would think that would have been about $10,000 ago.

I agree with this. Even if you’re scrupulous with preventative maintenance, unless you’re exceptionally lucky, a 16-year-old car is going to require repairs (possibly expensive repairs) on a regular basis. Things wear out, things break down.

I certainly understand the feeling of “I’ve sunk a bunch of money into this car, and I don’t want to walk away from that,” but at a certain point, the reality is that you might well spend less on car payments (particularly if you buy a used car) than you would on your repair bills to keep your old, no-loan-payments car going.

[Sumatra5]

[quote=“Tired_and_Cranky, post:31, topic:793533”]

@Sumatra5

So I went to the tow place today and signed over my title. Total I owed for tow and storage was $75 which they wrote off due to signing of title.

You owed $75 to the tow yard. Did that include the tow charge itself and the storage? The car was worth no more than $125. It sounds like the most you lost was $50. It’s not the end of the world.

I’m surprised the scrapyards offered so little for the car. One scrap yard near my parents offers $400 for any complete car regardless of condition. I think that’s less than the scrap metal content of most cars.

Generally I’d say this is but Takata seems to be a different animal. Automakers are now recalling some replacement Takata airbags that have the same defect.

The Millions of Airbags Takata Replaced Could Still Be Dangerous | The Truth About Cars

https://www.washingtonpost.com/national/mazda-recalls-nearly-80k-vehicles-to-replace-faulty-air-bags/2017/08/15/dff60614-81bd-11e7-9e7a-20fa8d7a0db6_story.html

Takata is already bankrupt so the risk to their business is largely irrelevant.

http://www.reuters.com/article/us-takata-bankruptcy-usa-idUSKBN1AP2JF

Weirdly, Takata is trying to use its bankruptcy to help automakers escape their own liability for putting defective airbags in their cars. I’m not a bankruptcy lawyer but I don’t see how the bankruptcy of a supplier should protect the automakers for their liability.

http://www.autonews.com/article/20170809/OEM10/170809727/takata-seeks-to-suspend-airbag-victims-lawsuits-against-carmakers

The tow itself was like $15 the rest was storage. So I lost out on potentially $50? … I’ve lost $1,000’s to that car thru the years I owned it. The reason the car wasn’t worth much is 1.) The brand Oldsmobile AND make Alero is no longer made. 2.) It was 16-17 years old (2018’s are out) it also had 142k on the motor. The car got me around for the most part but I had more unneeded stress all the time due to it not being reliable. Alero’s are very problematic cars and I wish when I was younger I had done the research to reflect that. Eventually i’ll feel the relief of not having it anymore. Before the accident I had made an appointment to bring it back to the shop again to get it fixed due to an engine surge new idle air intake valve didnt fix it 100%. I’m trying to work out rides places my doctors and health insurance are helping me right now. Where I live there’s a light rail I can take it if needed. I do not navigate well so buses I can’t do unless its like right down a road.

I question why my right rear tire was bent back into place? Regardless people say its probably still not drive able anyhow and it wouldn’t be worth fixing and will never drive correctly.

You would think Takata would have cheaped out on the airbag quality. Playing Russian roulette isn’t a smart game! Isn’t it uncommon to see fixed recalls have to be re-recalled?

[Sumatra5]

@Kimballkid

They probably just bent it back enough to make it easier to move it around the lot, it’s probably still not road-worthy.

At some point, as with most things, you just have to admit defeat and quit pouring money into something. With your car, I would think that would have been about $10,000 ago.

I don’t have a new car, my newest vehicle is a 2004. I guess, in some sense, that would be considered modern. I’ve had new cars before, my last one being a 2012, and they are nice but you have to do what is best for you and your financial situation.

Haha yeah $10,000 ago… you are correct about that it’s the first thing that popped in my head just after I bought the car. Months later I started having to replace the entire suspension and buy its first set of new tires etc…

I’ll be nice tho and give the car some credit It got me from point A-Z literally hense my move to Arizona (AZ) and I’ve met a lot cool people while driving it around and helping others out as needed. I suppose given my financial situation that car kept going because I did maintain it and I am a safe driver! I always figured it was cheaper to dump money into it than a car payment. Each and every year I talked about getting rid of the car. I just couldn’t afford to economically speaking. I just need to save a little more money now!

By modern and new I mean as in safety features and technology not so much design. I find a lot of the cars today are very poorly designed.

[Sumatra5]

@kenobi_65

I agree with this. Even if you’re scrupulous with preventative maintenance, unless you’re exceptionally lucky, a 16-year-old car is going to require repairs (possibly expensive repairs) on a regular basis. Things wear out, things break down.

I certainly understand the feeling of “I’ve sunk a bunch of money into this car, and I don’t want to walk away from that,” but at a certain point, the reality is that you might well spend less on car payments (particularly if you buy a used car) than you would on your repair bills to keep your old, no-loan-payments car going.

As of the last couple years things have been breaking on it that are original such as the radiator. Since I didnt drive much I was on my 2nd set of tires. I think I was in my mid twenties when I bought the Alero. My parents always told me it would be cheaper to fix than making a car payment. But that depends on what goes out and how often. I feel stupid for putting what I did into the car but lessons learned. :smack: Thats why i’m going to wait till I have enough saved up for a car I actually want and not settle for less again. A used 1-2 year old car under warranty sounds promising to me. I’ll get there eventually!

[bob_2]

I bought my current car (in the UK) from Ford Direct. They sell low mileage used cars (ex-management or demonstrators) at a huge discount from new. They usually come with a two-year warranty and other advantages.

Look here to get an idea of what you can get: http://www.forddirect.com/

[Sumatra5]

@Folly

I forgot what they called it, but I switched to a ‘no car’ or some sort of maintenance policy with my insurance when I was between cars in order to maintain coverage history. It was cheaper than a ‘with car’ policy.

Interesting! What company are you with? I just lowered my insurance to the bare requirements now. I thought they were but I guess not. Now I’ll pay under $45 instead of $50 a month!