Car folks: advice wanted about possibly buying an old Volvo

My wife and i are grad students, so we don’t have a lot of money. Ideally, we would be happy not to have a car at all, but in a city with the layout and the awful public transport of Baltimore, that’s not really an option. Having a car in this town is pretty much a necessity if you want to shop, eat out, go to the movies, etc.

For the past year, we’ve been sharing a car with a friend of ours. It’s her car, but we pay for half of the ongoing expenses (gas, registration, insurance, etc.), and we take turns to have the car, one week at a time. It’s been a good arrangement, as we don’t need the car every week, and it’s also possible to use it in the “off” week if the other person isn’t using it.

Anyway, our friend is leaving the country, and she wants to know if we want to buy the car. It’s a 1989 Volvo 240DL sedan. What i’m seeking is some general advice from anyone with any experience of this type of car, or of buying old used cars in general.

Last year, a few weeks after we started sharing the car with her, it had some major work done. The muffler and tailpipe assembly literally fell off and started dragging on the ground, and when she took it in to be repaired she found out that a whole bunch of other stuff needed doing. I have the invoice from the mechanic with me, and the work that was done included:
[ul]
[li]R&R Rear Muffler and T.Pipe (Volvo exhaust kit)[/li][li]Rehang and Align Exhaust[/li][li]R&R Fuel Pressure Regulator[/li][li]R&R Hi Pressure P/S Hose[/li][li]Flush/Bleed Brake System[/li][li]R&R Ball Joints (L and R)[/li][li]Repack Front Wheel Bearings[/li][li]R&R Tie Rod[/li][li]Front End Alignment[/li][li]R&R Crank Pulley[/ul][/li]The total bill for this stuff—parts, labor, and tax—was just under $1,700. Because we had only just started sharing the car with her, and most of the problems were the result of long-term use, we only paid $300 towards this bill.

So, now that she’s leaving, she is asking $1,000 for the car. I looked up the Blue Book value (a rather imprecise guide, i realize), and it indicated that this car in its current condition is probably worth about $850-900. But the extra hundred bucks or so isn’t really the issue; we’re more concerned about the possibility that the car might require another massive outlay like the one described above.

Since the repairs, the car has run very well. It starts first time every time, whether it’s 20 degrees or 90 degrees outside. It drives fine, and has never stalled or broken down. The exterior has a nice big ding on the right hand side where our friend backed into a concrete pillar in the shopping mall, and the interior is pretty old and crappy, and the parts of the plastic door bins and the center console have broken off.

Now, my wife and i don’t care how the car looks, or how crappy the interior is. We just want a vehicle that will run reliably for the two years that we are likely to remain in Baltimore. If this car is likely to do the job, we’ll probably buy it, because we know the car, and my wife (who was rear-ended in her old car a couple of years ago) likes the fact that the Volvo has plenty of metal in case of collision.

What i’m wondering is what, if anything, we should be worried about in deciding whether or not to buy this car? The mechanic who did the work last year told our friend that it should run for another ten years without too much trouble. Well, no offense to any mechanics on the board, but that’s probably what i’d say too if i had just charged someone $1,700 to fix a $1,000 car. Does anyone know of any specific issues that this type of car might have? Should i get a different mechanic to check it out before we buy it? Should i run like crazy and look for another car?

Any advice most welcome.

One of the reasons that a huge bill was amassed is Maryland’s inspection system. It’s a one time deal, after which the onus is on the owner, unlike PA which has an annual safety inspection, such that exhaust deterioration is typically caught long before decay causes parts to exit the vehicle. From reading the list posted, it sounds like a year or two of maint was handled in one shot.

Other than the ding you’ve mentioned, is there evidence of rust? Being in the mid Atlantic, that car has seen it’s share of salt on roadways. Volvo builds a nice solid auto, so my thought would be that if it is cancer free, it’s not a bad deal for $1K. As a final thought, it probably wouldn’t be a shabby idea to let another independent mechanic give it a once over to preclude nasty surprises and afford you a measure of comfort in your decision.

Good luck.

Check around in the various “For Sale” magazines and see what a Volvo similar to this one is going for, since the Blue Book’s are pretty notorious for being off in their pricing. Also take the car to a mechanic and have him look it over to see what he thinks of the car. So long as the mechanicals of the car have been well maintained (oil changed regularly, chassis lubed, etc.), it should be okay. If the car’s started having electrical problems, I’d shy away from it, since they only seem to get worse, and can be expensive to repair (I’m not talking about the alternator going out on you, but things like dashlights flickering when you hit a bump, etc.), if you’re even able to find the source of the problem.

Thanks for the advice. It doesn’t seem to have much visible rust, but i believe that it’s sometimes possible for rust to be present but not easily seen.

As for the price, it seems to be in the ballpark for a car of its age and condition. It probably is a hundred dollars or so too expensive, but i think our friend has it in her head that she wants to recoup some of what she spent on it last year, and we’d probably be willing to pay the extra.

Having said that, i was just looking on Craigslist, and found this car advertised:

This car has fewer miles than the one we’re driving, and the presence of a CD player is something of a bonus. The only thing i’m wary of are the power windows, which can apparently be a pain in the ass if something goes wrong. I’m going to give the guy a call and get some more details.

Make sure the AC/heater blower motor is working properly. Last I checked, it took over $800 worth of labor to replace the thing.

You could always take it to a mechanic for a full inspection, as you should with any used car purchase. Last time I bought a car (not a Volvo), it saved me from a rusted out deathtrap - bodywork looked clean but the brake lines, brakes and other stuff were rusted and badly repaired.

You’ve been driving this thing on and off for a year and you can’t decide if its worth a thousand bucks? :confused:

Good luck with your studies.

Well, thanks for contributing nothing to the thread, and acting like a jackass in the process.

As should have been clear to anyone who read my OP, i will be quite happy to pay $1000 for the car if i can be reasonably certain that it will continue to run as reliably as it has over the past year.

But i am not a car expert, and i’m well aware that sometimes problems which might not be obvious now can become painfully and expensively apparent down the road. I was simply seeking advice about things i need to watch out for, and precautions i should take.

And, what do you know? Some people actually managed to respond to my inquiry with useful advice rather than drive-by sarcasm.

Well I am a car expert, Volvo to be exact, and the owner of an 89 240 to boot. :slight_smile:
Frankly, replacement of the items listed in the OP are not unusual for a Volvo that is 16 model years old.
240s have a reputation of being tough, hard to kill cars assuming that a small amount of maintence (like changing the oil) is done. My concern is was any of this routine maintence done when it was due? How long ago was the last oil change? How often has the oil been changed over the last 3 or 4 years? From the list of repairs in the OP, it sounds like the current owner may be the type that puts any visit to a shop off until the car is no longer mobile under it own power. If this is the case, then this might not be the best car to buy.
To put this in perspective, the last 240 I sold a friend bought with about 200,000 miles on it. For the next eleven years she drove that car until it finally died with about 775,000 miles on it.

Thanks for the reply, Rick.

To tell you the truth, i’m not really sure of its history in the area of routine maintenance, oil changes, and the like. Our friend, the current owner, only had it for just over a year before we started sharing it with her. I know that she had some work done on it before the stuff i mentioned in the OP, including a new alternator. I’ll ask her if she’s had oil changes done during the time she’s had it. But i really don’t know its history before that.

My wife and i are currently thinking that any $1000 car is going to come with a certain risk of future mechanical problems and, given that this one has been reliable over the past year, it might be better to go with the devil we know, if you get me drift. Any further advice would be most welcome.

I had a 1980 240DL wagon, bought as the fifth owner in 1998. It had a good body but it wound up needing various mechanical work, some of which we decided wasn’t worth it. For example, the electrical system was starting to go and it probably would’ve needed a brand new wiring harness. The A/C went, but I’m not sure if that was the motor or something cracked. The coolant hoses cracked and leaked and had to be replaced. It ate about three alternators in five years. It had that funky electric overdrive switch and I eventually lost fifth gear when the solenoid went. Oh, and we had to replace something tied in with the rack-and-pinion steering, but that was an expected repair at that age of the car. It didn’t really have enough power in the four-cylinder for a car of its weight, though that might have been partially due to altitude.

Your welcome! Gotta stick with what I know best! :smiley:

I didn’t mean to sound nasty, but the point I was getting at was that the year-long test drive you have been on is going to be 1000 times more valuable than any anecdotal evidence about similar vehicles. Jeepers! You’ve undoubtably driven that Volvo more in the last year than 3 or 4 cars I actually own!

Anything I (or anyone who hasn’t seen the vehicle) could have added would be equivilant to a Tarot card reading. Some Volvos have electrical problems. Some of them have been know to have transmissions go out. Many of them are pretty damn well built cars and can be expected to last for several hundreds of thousands of miles. All depends on how well they have been cared for over the last 20 years.

Give me an hour to drive it, and I’ll tell you whats wrong with it now. Tommorow is a different story. If I drove it a year, I’d tell you a lot more. More than anyone on line, I would imagine.

Have fun!

Any car, regardless of price, is a “certain risk”. I agree with you on the second part. If its reliable now, it probably will be so in the short-term.

I’ll add that the Kelly people are pretty sharp and the values/prices they give are a good yardstick.

My first two cars were 1976 240 series Volvos, which were 10 and 13 years old respectively when I bought them. I can honestly tell you that they spent almost as much time with the mechanic as with me. Sure, they were well-built and safe cars, but I had no end of problems with them, brakes, transmission, exhaust, engine, you name it. And it didn’t help that living in a rural area, it was hard to find a garage that could do a good job, service was relatively expensive, and parts could be hard to get. In the Baltimaore area it should be better, but I imagine that repairs will still cost you more than a more local make (I include most Japanese cars in this category).

IMO any car you buy that is 16 years old is going to need significant repairs in the next two years, but of course you save on the purchase price. However, my advice is to get a US or Japanese make, which will be easier and cheaper to repair than an old Vulva (as my high school friends used to call my first car…)

      • The thing to avoid with used cars is engine/transmission leaks. If there is fluid leaking from the engine or transmission, that is going to be a pretty expensive repair when it finally needs doing. Most of what they fixed was fairly-minor stuff; you are much better off finding a car that has little or no leaks if you want a low-cost keeper.
        ~

If you have membership with AAA, find their nearest inspection station - they’ll go over the car end-to-end and tell you what shape it’s in. I’d wager that they charge something for this now, but they’re probably going to be about the most impartial opinion as they don’t do repairs.

Otherwise, I was going to say that this car is the devil that you know and have driven for a year. It starts good? Drives good? Good! Another car that you find in the paper or craigslist will be a whole 'nother story. For all you know, they’ve dumped a handful of instant mashed potatos into the radiator to plug some little leak that’s about to become a big leak and there’s more soup cans and baling wire than real exhaust pipes.

Just an update for anyone who’s interested.

We took the car in to a local Volvo mechanic who has a reputation for doing good work and for being fair. We wanted him to have a look over the car, and to see what needed doing in order to give it the Maryland roadworthiness certification that is required of all cars going up for sale.

He called back a couple of hours later and said, basically, “Under no circumstances should you buy this car.” Apparently it was going to need about a grand’s worth of work just to get the basic certification, and was probably going to require another grand in the next year for other repairs.

Immediate, essential repairs included all four brakes, a wheel alignment, a new windshield, and some mother minor stuff. Longer-term stuff included the airconditioning.

Needless to say, we’ve dropped it like a hot potato. We’re now on the lookout for an early 90s Honda Accord. That was my wife’s last car (until she got rear-ended by some jackass), and it ran beautifully and was always reliable. It will cost more than we were going to pay for the Volvo, but i think it will be a better investment.

Thanks for the update. Last week, I was driving up Calvert Street, to turn on 33rd Street, and saw a guy in an older-model Volvo stationwagon and thought of you. It was pretty frickin’ hot that day and I don’t think that dude had air-conditioning in his car.