Car Insurance Payout Question

[kaylasdad99]

Last Friday as I drove to work at 10:00 pm, a driver pulled into my lane from my right. As might be expected, the passenger side of my Prius was damaged from the front fender, both passenger-side doors, and the quarter panel. We exchanged insurance and contact information, and both drove away uninjured.

On Monday, I spoke with her insurance company and obtained the claim information. I was told to expect to be contacted on Tuesday by the claims adjuster. That actually happened on Wednesday morning, by text. I submitted photos of the damage, and the adjuster called me an hour ago.

My narrative of the collision agreed with the other driver’s, and her company is accepting liability, so I won’t be responsible for any deductible ( ). He’s forwarding the damage photos to his estimator, and he told me that due to having to basically replace the entire passenger-side exterior, there’s a possibility the estimator may total the vehicle. I really don’t want that to happen.

But if it does, I’d kinda like to know what my options are, and what I can expect.

TIA

[kaylasdad99]

I’m in Portland, Oregon, btw. The car is a 2015 Prius with almost 200k miles.

Mods, please move this thread if it belongs in IMHO.

[Saint_Cad]

@kaylasdad99

But if it does, I’d kinda like to know what my options are, and what I can expect.

They will give you their idea of the cash value minus your deduction. Then they tow it and try to get the max value they can for it through scrap or auction.
You can keep your car for the settlement minus an amount the insurance company decides on that they could have gotten for scrap or auction.
If you decide to repair it after they have “totaled” it, you will likely get a salvage title. Makes it legal, but also makes it hell if you try to resell it later.

[gnoitall]

You will probably be given an opportunity to go tho where the totalled car is parked if you need to take out loose property like tools, flashlights, documents, etc.

After that, you’ll sign the deed to the vehicle to the insurance company in exchange for the settlement check because when a car is totalled, the insurance company buys the vehicle at the price of the settlement payment.

If everything works as expected, the insurance company will apply for a wreck deed for the vehicle, which means that you’ll no longer on record as the vehicle owner and off the hook for registration fees and the lkke.

If the car still had a note, you’re obviously still responsible for that, unless the insurance company already directly paid the creditor first. (I’ve never had a car totalled while still on payment, so I don’t know, but I know the creditor has some insurable interest in the car until it’s paid off, so it makes sense that they’d be in line ahead of you.)

[kaylasdad99]

Car is paid off.

And drivable.

[LSLGuy]

All this varies by state and by insurance carrier. I’m in FL.

It would behoove you to contact your insurance company. That’s what you’re paying them for. If that driver suddenly develops “whiplash”, your insurer will protect you. But only if they know about this accident before the suit is filed. Your policy almost certainly contains a clause requiring you to report everything and absolving them of responsibility if you “forget” to do that.

By coincidence my own car was hit similarly but worse in early Sep. The other driver and I were cordial, exchanged info, talked to the cops, etc. Mine was (barely) drivable to my nearby shop while dragging parts on the street. His was tow-away only. No injuriess.

I promptly reported the accident to my company (USAA). He reported to his (State Farm). I did all my interaction with USAA. Other than giving State Farm a statement when their claims worker called.

State Farm promptly admitted liability.

USAA evaluated my car and decided to total it using their evaluators, their criteria, and their own ideas about payoff amounts. My policy has a feature that pays 20% over the total-out value to help you pay for a replacement car. That add-on extra had a small incremental premium; it proved to be a very good investment.

Even without that top-up USAA said the other carrier was going to offer far less as their total-out value. They’re just hoping you’ll go away just barely satisfied enough to take the deal while grumbling. Very different motivations.

About 10 days after the accident I got my check (ACH transfer actually) from USAA. Ref @gnoitall, I still owed money on the car. The insurer paid off the lender directly & sent me the overage between amount owed and the total + top-up settlement.

In my case I wanted the money, not a damaged car. I was in the wrecked car biz many years ago. Unless you intend to keep that car until it’s a musty rusty ratty bucket of bolts that barely runs and scares the neighbors, keeping your total-out is a money-losing disaster from end to end. Formerly professionally speaking, don’t do it. No reputable dealership or big used car outfit (e.g CarMax, AutoNation, etc.) will take it in trade, and private parties will run, not walk, the other way once they see the CarFAX. Which they will.

USAA has since informed me they’re going after State Farm of all of it. My deductible, the base total-out amount, and the top-up payment. Not my problem since I’ve got all my money already, but I wish them well.

Bottom line: if you don’t want to get screwed, deal with the people who know you’re their customer, not somebody else’s customer.

And take the money, not a bent vehicle with a scarlet A spray-painted across it’s windshield for life.

[Dewey_Finn]

@gnoitall

You will probably be given an opportunity to go tho where the totalled car is parked if you need to take out loose property like tools, flashlights, documents, etc.

I’ve had to do that, more than once. It’s like the saddest day ever.

[kayaker]

@kaylasdad99

there’s a possibility the estimator may total the vehicle. I really don’t want that to happen.

My gf’s Silverado farm truck was hit by someone. Her insurance company was going to total it. She told them she was very unhappy about that. Due to her stellar performance prior to this, and the fact it was a borderline case, they agreed to repair the damage.

[LSLGuy]

@Dewey_Finn

@gnoitall

You will probably be given an opportunity to go tho where the totalled car is parked if you need to take out loose property like tools, flashlights, documents, etc.

I’ve had to do that, more than once. It’s like the saddest day ever.

Unless the car is loaded w stuff, all of that should have been taken with you when you and the car first go your separate ways right after the accident.

If the car has more stuff than you can carry, you should at least ensure you grab all the valuable or hard-to-replace stuff immediately. Impound yards are famous for poor security. And lots of damaged cars don’t lock. A fact well known to thieves. Some of whom work there. Just sayin’

[Dewey_Finn]

Even if you grab the obvious stuff immediately, there’s always a few things left behind, which is what I’m getting after it’s been towed. Plus it’s an opportunity to say goodbye to it.

[kaylasdad99]

@LSLGuy

Unless the car is loaded w stuff, all of that should have been taken with you when you and the car first go your separate ways right after the accident.

We didn’t go our separate ways. My car is parked right now in the underground parking of my apartment complex.

And I did open a claim/report with my carrier right away. I just don’t have much appetite for paying a $500 deductible and then waiting for GEICO to recover that for me through subrogation, so I put that on hold until I’ve dealt with American Family.

@Dewey_Finn

Even if you grab the obvious stuff immediately, there’s always a few things left behind, which is what I’m getting after it’s been towed. Plus it’s an opportunity to say goodbye to it.

What I’ve got in my car is a printer and my wife’s ashes.

ETA: no, it’s not a 3D printer and I’m totally not planning to mad scientist my wife back from her ashes.

[Dewey_Finn]

I have all kinds of things in my car; a pen, notepad, phone charger cable, cigarette lighter adapter, flashlight(s), first aid kit, towel, etc. And that’s just from memory.

[filmore]

Do a search for similar cars to yours on sites like CarMax, AutoTrader, and Edmonds. Whatever the similar cars are selling for is about what you’ll get from the insurance company. Since it’s the other person’s fault, your own insurance coverage shouldn’t matter. The other person’s insurance will give you enough to replace your car with another one that’s just about the same mileage and condition. If their payout is much lower, you should show them the comparable cars and ask them how they came to their lower value.

[doreen]

I’m not saying anyone is wrong, but a lot depends on specifics. I kept more than one totaled car - because the damage was purely cosmetic, I didn’t end up with a salvage title and I also didn’t fix them . I was fine at the time driving a car with unrepaired cosmetic damage and I didn’t think I could get a reliable replacement with what the insurance would pay ( made up numbers - but if there is $2000 worth of damage on a car worth $1000 it’s getting totaled even though that car is possibly in better shape than anything I could buy for $1000. I knew how I maintained my cars but I wouldn’t know that if I was buying a used one)

[DrDeth]

@kaylasdad99

But if it does, I’d kinda like to know what my options are, and what I can expect.

You do not have to accept any estimates or offers they make. Especially if they say it is totaled. You can find say 3 similar prius in your area for sale, and tell them that their estimate is low. If they do say it is totalled, you dont have to turn over the car- just take the check and keep the car

@gnoitall

After that, you’ll sign the deed to the vehicle to the insurance company in exchange for the settlement check because when a car is totalled, the insurance company buys the vehicle at the price of the settlement payment.

You do not have to hand over the car. They will subtract a bit for scrap value. See what they claim is scrap value and call a couple of yards and see what they would offer- usually a lot less.

@LSLGuy

Even without that top-up USAA said the other carrier was going to offer far less as their total-out value. They’re just hoping you’ll go away just barely satisfied enough to take the deal while grumbling. Very different motivations.

This is quite common.

@kaylasdad99

I just don’t have much appetite for paying a $500 deductible and then waiting for GEICO

Oh GEICO. Their claim service is terrible.

Do you have a lawyer as a friend?

@filmore

Do a search for similar cars to yours on sites like CarMax, AutoTrader, and Edmonds.

Yes, but also locally, prices may be higher there.

[jnglmassiv]

@Dewey_Finn

Even if you grab the obvious stuff immediately, there’s always a few things left behind

In 2019, I carefully cleared a car of personal belongings, anticipating its sale or trade. Sure enough, I forgot to empty the CD changer of six choice CD-Rs (with my hand drawn disk art) that have proven surprisingly difficult to replace. I miss my Best of Tom Petty car compilation.

[puzzlegal]

When my aging civic was rear ended, the insurance company declared the car totaled. It wasn’t worth much, and it wasn’t close. We got the value of the car from the insurance company, and we spent some of that to have the rear repaired enough that the trunk opened and the lights and bumper were legal. And yes, we got a salvage title, and drove the car for a few more years.

When we finally decided to buy a new car, we sold it privately for a few hundred dollars. Basically, we charged a friend what the dealer offered us as a trade in. It still ran fine at that point. I gave the buyer a list of everything i knew that had ever gone wrong with the car, including that it has been totaled.

[puzzlegal]

@doreen

I’m not saying anyone is wrong, but a lot depends on specifics. I kept more than one totaled car - because the damage was purely cosmetic, I didn’t end up with a salvage title and I also didn’t fix them . I was fine at the time driving a car with unrepaired cosmetic damage and I didn’t think I could get a reliable replacement with what the insurance would pay ( made up numbers - but if there is $2000 worth of damage on a car worth $1000 it’s getting totaled even though that car is possibly in better shape than anything I could buy for $1000. I knew how I maintained my cars but I wouldn’t know that if I was buying a used one)

Exactly. My civic drove fine for a few years after it was totaled. I’m glad i kept it.

[kayaker]

@kayaker

My gf’s Silverado farm truck was hit by someone. Her insurance company was going to total it.

The outrageous thing here, was that she was hit by a guy who was at a Stop sign. She had no Stop sign and was driving 35 mph, the posted limit.

The other dude was “driving tired” and pulled out, hitting her front passenger side. No airbag deployment, really minimal damage. She drove home. Low mileage 5 year old Silverado excellent vehicle with a cap.

Totaled?!

[pkbites]

@kayaker

No airbag deployment

That seems to be a significant factor to insurance companies; whether or not the airbags deployed.

I had two accident reports this year where I thought the adjuster was crazy. Woman in a 2023 Hyundai struck one of the poles that was around a fire hydrant at approximately 15mph. Front right headlight was dented in but no other visible damage. For whatever reason the passenger airbag deployed. Vehicle was totaled at the scene.

Another one a car hit a pothole at approximately 35mph. Tire blew and passenger side airbag deployed. Adjuster didn’t look at anything. Saw the airbag and immediately said totaled.