Carnac the Magnificent!I hope you’re proud of yourself.
That you’ve stated it to occur after hitting a bump causes me to recall an identical experience in the company loaner (read boss wouldn’t put a dime into it) truck. It was a faulty shock absorber which wasn’t capable of dampening the oscillation, hence you have vehicle, tire, and spring playing ping-pong against the road. Same as you, I tramped on the brakes and it would calm down until the next bump.
Sending a big fat hairy “Hmmmmmmm…” your way. “Oscillation” is exactly the word I was looking for. Because you can feel it coming, gradual but steady, until it feels like a re-entry vehicle.
And a shock is only like…what…$70?
I stand by my observation, but add this: consider installing a CB radio, too. I hear the wiring is a snap. 
Wel what have you found?
Shock absorbers are much less costly than that. IIRC, I put premium grade shocks on the catmobile and didn’t spend $25 each. If you have MacPherson struts, they can cost that much and more, and isn’t a job for someone who hasn’t got the proper tools.
Cover my back…I’m jacking up the car in 15 minutes–first chance I’ve gotten. The problem has progressed. The wobble is now very predictable, it happens EVERY time you hit 50 mph. I’ve also gotten the front end to “clunk” for me when I turn into a driveway (you know that dip when you leave the road and cross the sidewalk into the driveway). This is a 90 degree left turn combined with a pretty good bump. Very satisfying because now I’ve got a “wrong” noise down there that I can recreate.
I’d jack it from a frame position such that the front suspension can fully extend. Once you get the tire a few inches off the ground, grab it at 9 and 3 and determine if there’s play. Do the same at 12 and 6. Look at the shocks for signs of leakage.
There is play when the wheel is grabbed at 12 & 6, not much but some that results in a slight clunk. There seems to be play when the wheel is grabbed at 9 & 3 which gives a satisfying clunk which I believe is coming from the steering box :rolleyes:
The good wheel has no play at 12 & 6, but has the same play/clunk at 9 & 3.
Off to the machanic I go (I do shocks, but no other suspension parts. I don’t trust myself there.
Well…that was easy.
Lower control arm. Attached fore and aft to the frame. The aft connection has been pulled completely through the frame, bushing and all. Should be a relatively straightforward fix, except that passage through the frame has a kind of collar that’s a bit mangled. My neighbor fixes this kind of stuff for beer.
Glad you figured it out before things turned nasty. You’re right-that’s not a major league repair. A tiny bit of play in the steering box is normal, BTW.
Glad you found it.
with my 2001 Jeep Cherokee. Every time i would work up to about 30-50 miles and hour my steering wheel would start shaking. Any speed out of that range would result in normal driving. It would pull slightly to the right so naturally thought that I needed an alignment. After almost getting shafted by a automotive repair shop who said I needed my front stablizer bar replaced for $489.00, I quickly sought another opinion from the same chain.
He said that my tires was worn disproportionately and simply suggested getting new tires. It was about that time for new ones and I did not rotate my tires as you should so I took his advice. My Jeep drives like when I first bought it and its been 8 months since purchasing new tires. That simply was all that needed to be done.
Your situation might be different, but it sounded identical to mine.
-JT