Car Trouble - Should Be Quick & Easy

Factual Questions
1

1998 Saturn SL2, 112k Miles

My previous car problem has been solved. Something about a crank shaft sensor, and the word “solenoid” was mentioned, too.

Anyway, last night Mrs. Homie and I drove out to a secluded spot to watch the eclipse. I shut the car off. When it was time to go home, I turned the key - nothing. I called a friend and got a jump, and drove home (about a 10-minute drive).

When I got home, I shut the car off and then tried to turn it on again - nothing.

What’s up?

  1. I need to buy a new battery.

  2. A commercially-available battery charger will do the trick.

  3. I have a more serious problem than that (alternator, some sensor, the whole car is a piece of shit (a conclusion I’m very quickly coming to)).

If it’s #2: I’m a total noob about these things. Do I have to remove the battery and charge it sitting on the ground, or can I charge it while it’s hooked up to the car? How long does it take to charge?

If it’s #3: Any idea what’s going on?

2

In the first instance I would remove the battery and fully charge it, check the electrolyte levels before and after charging. Check that the battery terminals are clean and bright, also the connectors and that when you restore the battery that they are tight and the other ends, ground lead(s) to bodywork and likely engine &/or gearbox are in good condition.

While the battery charges, (the charge time is largely dependent on the charger but 24 hours for a flattened battery is the usual rule of thumb) swipe a known good one from a friend and see if there is any difference, which will go a long way towards eliminating the battery as the cause of your problems.

Next thing to check would be the starter and starter solenoid. If you don’t at least get a hefty ‘click’ when you turn the key my suspicions would centre on that.

3

Nice euphemism ;).

Myglaren provides some good advice. You may also be able to narrow down the problem with some simpler tests, but you haven’t given us much to go on. When you say you turned the key and got “nothing”, did your dashboard lights come on? Do the headlights work? If the answer to either of these is “yes”, then it’s most likely a problem with the starter motor. If “no”, it’s probably battery/alternator.

Hopefully a proper expert like Rick or Gary T will be along shortly, but I bet the first thing they do is ask for more information.

4

[QUOTE=HeyHomie]
When it was time to go home, I turned the key - nothing. I called a friend and got a jump, and drove home (about a 10-minute drive).

If it started with jumper cables, that pretty well eliminates everything except the battery and battery cable connections (i.e., starter, ignition, fuel injection are okay).

1) I need to buy a new battery.

In your other thread you said you put a battery in it. I assume that means you already have a new battery. If so, it’s either a faulty battery, a battery low on charge, or the cable connections.

2) A commercially-available battery charger will do the trick…Do I have to remove the battery and charge it sitting on the ground, or can I charge it while it’s hooked up to the car? How long does it take to charge?

First, I would measure the rest voltage of the battery (should be approx. 12.6 volts). Alternatively, see how bright the headlights are. If the battery is low, it should be slow-charged with a charger. It can remain in the car and hooked up, but first remove the cables and clean the battery terminals and cable ends where they contact the terminals. This is to ensure good contact between the charger and battery, and to eliminate poor connection there as the problem. Full charging may take hours, perhaps overnight.

If it starts after the battery is fully charged, then either the battery won’t hold a charge(= faulty battery), the battery isn’t being charged (= faulty alternator, or wiring to it), or the connections at the battery were bad. If it still doesn’t start, then the problem is a faulty battery or a poor connection on the far end of the ground (negative) cable.

3) I have a more serious problem than that (alternator, some sensor, the whole car is a piece of shit (a conclusion I’m very quickly coming to))…Any idea what’s going on?

At this point, I’d say the alternator is a prime suspect.

5

[QUOTE=Gary T]

Gary, would they have been able to drive home if the alternator was shit?
If the battery was too dead to start the car because the alternator wasn’t charging it then there should be no power to run the car after the jump.

I’m going with the simplest thing at this point and that would be a crap battery.

6

[QUOTE=HeyHomie]
When it was time to go home, I turned the key - nothing. I called a friend and got a jump, and drove home (about a 10-minute drive).

If it started with jumper cables, that pretty well eliminates everything except the battery and battery cable connections (i.e., starter, ignition, fuel injection are okay).

1) I need to buy a new battery.

In your other thread you said you put a battery in it. I assume that means you already have a new battery. If so, it’s either a faulty battery, a battery low on charge, or the cable connections.

2) A commercially-available battery charger will do the trick…Do I have to remove the battery and charge it sitting on the ground, or can I charge it while it’s hooked up to the car? How long does it take to charge?

First, I would measure the rest voltage of the battery (should be approx. 12.6 volts). Alternatively, see how bright the headlights are. If the battery is low, it should be slow-charged with a charger. It can remain in the car and hooked up, but first remove the cables and clean the battery terminals and cable ends where they contact the terminals. This is to ensure good contact between the charger and battery, and to eliminate poor connection there as the problem. Full charging may take hours, perhaps overnight.

If it starts after the battery is fully charged, then either the battery won’t hold a charge(= faulty battery), the battery isn’t being charged (= faulty alternator, or wiring to it), or the connections at the battery were bad. If it still doesn’t start, then the problem is a faulty battery or a poor connection on the far end of the ground (negative) cable.

3) I have a more serious problem than that (alternator, some sensor, the whole car is a piece of shit (a conclusion I’m very quickly coming to))…Any idea what’s going on?

At this point, I’d say the alternator is a prime suspect.

7

Looks like the forum’s battery is buggered too

8

[QUOTE=HeyHomie]
When it was time to go home, I turned the key - nothing. I called a friend and got a jump, and drove home (about a 10-minute drive).

If it started with jumper cables, that pretty well eliminates everything except the battery and battery cable connections (i.e., starter, ignition, fuel injection are okay).

1) I need to buy a new battery.

In your other thread you said you put a battery in it. I assume that means you already have a new battery. If so, it’s either a faulty battery, a battery low on charge, or the cable connections.

2) A commercially-available battery charger will do the trick…Do I have to remove the battery and charge it sitting on the ground, or can I charge it while it’s hooked up to the car? How long does it take to charge?

First, I would measure the rest voltage of the battery (should be approx. 12.6 volts). Alternatively, see how bright the headlights are. If the battery is low, it should be slow-charged with a charger. It can remain in the car and hooked up, but first remove the cables and clean the battery terminals and cable ends where they contact the terminals. This is to ensure good contact between the charger and battery, and to eliminate poor connection there as the problem. Full charging may take hours, perhaps overnight.

If it starts after the battery is fully charged, then either the battery won’t hold a charge(= faulty battery), the battery isn’t being charged (= faulty alternator, or wiring to it), or the connections at the battery were bad. If it still doesn’t start, then the problem is a faulty battery or a poor connection on the far end of the ground (negative) cable.

3) I have a more serious problem than that (alternator, some sensor, the whole car is a piece of shit (a conclusion I’m very quickly coming to))…Any idea what’s going on?

At this point, I’d say the alternator is a prime suspect.

9

Well, apart from several posts that appear to be missing (WTF?), it appears the problem has been solved, quickly and cheaply I might add.

The vehicle uses a side-mounted battery, so the poles and the connectors are not readily visible to the naked eye. Anyway, the positive pole was corroded. Simple enough.

Thanks for everyone’s help.