So I need a new catalytic converter for my 2003 Pontiac Vibe GTS (High Compression one). This is needed so that I might pass emissions inspection. The independent garage I took it to had the wrong part delivered twice. Sees both were for the non hi compression engine. Can anyone point me to an aftermarket coverter for that make and model of car?
Thanks,
What’s the 8th character of the VIN?
That would be an L
I checked with Carquest, and no luck. They offer one for the other (code 8) engine, but not for yours. This suggests that it might not be available from the aftermarket. Sorry.
How many miles on the car? Is the Check Engine light lit? Any unexplained loss of radiator coolant?
If any of those things are true, your mechanic should investigate to see if they caused premature catalytic converter failure. [I assume you didn’t somewhow manage to put leaded gas in the car.] Otherwise you could end up with an expensive replacement converter that fails again shortly.
BTW, when was the car first sold? The catalytic converter is defined as a “major emission control component” and has a federally-mandated 8 year / 80,000 mile (whichever comes first) warranty.
The car was bought new in 2003. It now has 225000 miles on it.
How about the cat converter for a Toyota Matrix. This car is IDENTICAL internally. Many parts are stamped Toyota. The matrix also came with two engines, The twin would be the XRS. Anything for that? And what about the coverters that are called universal. Could one of those be used?
And yes, the check engine light has been illuminated for almost two years.
So I can go to Meinecke and they can put on a Universal for $450.00 which is the exact maximum I am willing to paper (emissions requirement). I would still rather have this independent place do it. What does Meinecke know that they don’t, or more importantly, what can I suggest to them as to the place to get a Universal converter that will be workable.
Exact maximum I am willing to pay, is what I meant. The point is that on a car this old my having to replace it at all is extremely annoying.
There’s a risk when using a universal cat, or even a direct-fit aftermarket cat, with some cars. Field experience has shown that in some cases installing anything other than a genuine factory catalytic converter results in a check engine light with a catalyst code. Apparently some systems are so touchy that the aftermarket has not duplicated the factory performance precisely enough, and the computer can tell the difference. Some Toyota models are among those where this is an issue. I would say that the safe, do-it-once-and-be-done-with-it approach is to get the cat from a dealer. Of course, that will cost more than you were hoping to spend – the part alone is around $600.
I checked my repair info and was surprised to see that in the estimator portion, the same part number was listed for the catalyst for both the code L engine and the code 8 engine. This could be a misprint, or it could be that the same part is indeed used on both versions. So you may find that the “wrong” part would actually be the right one (assuming it doesn’t have an obvious design difference), but there’s still the risk outlined above.
ETA: If you are saying that a repair price of over $450 exempts you from having to do the repair in order to pass, then there’s your out. Get a quote from a dealer.
The independent shop where I took it said that when they delivered the converter that they ordered it did not fit at all. He then found that there were two engine models. I assume that he was correct and that they are different. The way the emissions inspection works around here is that if the car fails you have to document that you spent at least $450.00 trying to fix it. Since I really don’t care if it works or not I would rather be able to document that I spent $450 and be good to go for the next two years.
Gotcha. Does that mean that if you found a cheaper converter (say, $350 installed) but then the light came on and reset the code that you’d be obligated to spend at least another $100 trying to fix it? If so, your best bet might be to go with the $450 deal. I say that because I can’t think of anything that would cost less than $100 that would be likely to do the job – it might end up costing more than $450 total if you get a cheaper cat but it doesn’t work right.
Yes, that is exactly correct. You have to verify that you have spent at least $450.00 to try to remedy the situation. The sad truth of this law is that if I needed to spend another $100, but the next least expensive repair is $200 then my best course of action would be to find a dishonest mechanic and give him $100.00 for a receipt.
In my case the check engine light came on about a month after the inspection two years ago. I ignored it, and now am faced with either fixing it or having my registration suspended, which sounds like a real nightmare.
So, just to end the story. The garage that I originally took the car to evidently cut out the old converter before ascertaining whether the replacement fit. They also mentioned that I needed a new manifold gasket. I had them put it on, although I suspect that they did something the ruined it. I was sent on my way, $500 poorer because I did have some brake work done, with a “sleeve” bridging the gap where the converter once lived. The car sounded like a broken diesel engine, only louder. Now it is at Meinecke getting a universal converter soldered on for the exactly coincidental $450.00 that the law says I must pay. I am sorry for not feeling happy that I am helping to clean the air. I feel that the politicians have screwed me royally so they could receive federal highway funds.