Asiago, if you’re serious about it. Aged Asiago, if you’re really serious about it. Good Pecorino romano has this quality, but from 1½–2 times as much as Parmesan. In Italy I encountered an extra-greasy variety of Pecorino full of whole peppercorns, which was served to me as a slab on a plate for dessert(!). As for Parmesan grated onto pizza, of course I do. It forms the perfect browned crispy top surface. Nothing else browns as perfectly as freshly-grated Parmesan. If you like to snack on nutty Parmesan, you absolutely must try frico—lacy, crispy pan-fried wafers made of Parmesan grated into long elegant strands. The essence of crispy-browned Parmesan toppings for other dishes, isolated into a delicate creation all its own.