Chlorine in tap/bought/filtered water...how do you tell?

I have always had a reaction to chlorine in water…lets just say it messes with my bowels quite a bit. Some tap water is worse than others for me, some bottled water works well and others dont seem to (and some tastes awful and distilled)…
First, how can you tell how much chlorine is in water? Nutrition info doesnt list this, and I cant usually tell from the taste of the water.

Second, and most importantly, do water filters get out chlorine? Id like to ask companies like Brita or Pur if their products get out chlorine, but Im scared they will just say yes so that I will buy their product.

How can I get chlorine out of water and keep it tasting good? Im sick of this reaction Ive had all my life, and I drink a LOT of water.

I have a Brita filter pitcher and the package says that the filter “reduces chlorine.” I don’t know if that would be good enough for your purposes.

IIRC, chlorine breaks down pretty quickly. Have you tried letting water sit overnight before drinking it?

Most swimming pool testing kits will tell you. Just make sure the test gives actual numbers in ppm instead of a kind of add more/enough/too much scale. You can pick these things up at most hardware stores pretty cheap.

As far as I know their is no FILTER that can remove chlorine ions and the like from water, but there are deionizers that will do it. They are normally used in labs and may be quite expensive for private use. If tou want to invest in one though, maybe try Fisher Scientific - they sell everything lab related - just look 'em up on your search engine.

Also, you can buy deionized water in bulk from Fisher for about the price of bottled water. They aren’t used to dealing with individuals but probably will be able to help you) cheaper than most bottled water. After all, Evian spelled backwards is naive.

FIRST CHECK WITH YOUR DOCTOR. I think this lab stuff is potable but am not completely positive.

If you want to go about it scientifically, you can purchase a device or kit that measures the ppm in water. We used to use a very simple one in an archaeological conservation lab I worked at.

You can buy test strips at the site below but they seem to be about $5 a pop.
http://www.analyticon.com/tsktspec.html

I’m thinking chlorine testing kits can be purchased at pool suppliers? possibly even the Home Depot in conjunction with hot tubs/spas? The only question is whether kits intended for such a purpose will go low enough for you, as I believe most municipal water has about 5ppm chlorine (?) – much less than in a pool, anyway.

Are you certain it is the chlorine per se, and not, perhaps, the pH or something else entirely that is upsetting your stomach? Have you spoken to a doctor about this?

Oh, I found a different site selling both chlorine test paper and chlorine titration kits at a much more reasonable price.

http://www.hi-tm.com/Documents2000/Sanit&titrat.html

DT, the absolutely simplest, cheapest way to get chlorine out of water is to let it stand overnight in a pitcher or something. It evaporates very quickly.

Sodium thiosulfate will take out dissolved chlorine from water just about instantly… although this is what you use for aquarium water; I don’t know if you’d want to drink it. Chlorine gas will dissipate out of solution in water, particularly if agitated… but chloramines won’t - it depends what type of chlorine the city is using in the water supply. You can also get chlorine test kits for fish tanks… some people with real sensitive noses can smell it at pretty low concentrations. Check to see if it is the chlorine that’s bothering you first; there are many many things in drinking water that perhaps shouldn’t be there.

Well Im quite sure its the chlorine…when I would go to the pool as a kid, I would get always sick on the way home…even once had a nasty accident in the car…yick. And also, when I lived in Raleigh and found myself having terrible and constant diarrhea (TMI), my sister-in-law said that Raleigh water is very chlorinated. And considering I have had these problems to an extent all my life (from drinking tap water, I assume)…I put 2 and 2 together, and it just makes sense that its chlorine.

And furthermore, we drink out of a jug of water that is always in the fridge…so having the water sit around doesnt seem to get rid of the chlorine.

Thanx for the advice y’all…

Don’t jump to conclusions, your childhood incidents are more likely to have been caused by insufficient chlorination in a kiddee pool full of pee and fecal bacteria. There’s an outbreak of that in NE Iowa right now, I forget the specific bacteria involved because I blocked the horror of it from my memory. All the kiddee pools have been closed and the bacteria (and symptoms of diarhea and vomiting) are still spreading (although more slowly).

My city uses chloramines, so I use Kordon’s AmQuel Instant Water Detoxifier to make it safe for my aquarium. Chloramines are made of chlorine and ammonia (both of which are bad for fish), and AmQuel removes both. (The problem with other dechlorinators is that they will remove the chlorine part of chloramine and leave the ammonia behind.)

AmQuel uses sodium hydroxymethanesulfonate (I got this info from their Product Data Sheets.) The back of the bottle states that this is “Non-toxic to humans, pets and aquatic life.” I realize that “non-toxic” doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s a good idea to drink it regularly, so you might want to check with a doctor first, but the stuff is fairly diluted (1 tsp. per 10 gal.) when you use it. I’ll have to admit that I don’t make it a habit to drink the fish water, so I have no idea if it makes the water taste funny or not.

I would think that, as far as test kits go, the aquarium variety would suit your needs much better than the pool variety. Fish are much more sensitive to chlorine than the average human, so the ranges are probably much lower. I’ve never used a chlorine test kit, though, so I don’t know how easy they are to find. A quick peek in my Pet Warehouse catalog shows a pack of 100 chlorine “Quick Dip Test Strips” for $16.95, so, if all else fails, you can go the online/mail-order route. AmQuel is pretty easy to find in pet stores.

Isn’t chlorine supposed to prevent us from getting the shits from our drinking water? Maybe they aren’t adding enough! :wink: [sub](Just wondering if anyone else found this ironic.)[/sub]

Everyone “knows” this, but unfortunately it just ain’t true. Or rather, we weren’t able to perform this in the lab. It stays around for quite a long time, barring contamination.

What we did was take four 2 liter jars and filled them with tap water. Two were kept on the counter at room temp. and exposed to light, and the other pair was kept in the refrigerator, in the dark. Also, one of each pair was covered to try and minimize interaction of the water with the atmosphere.

I don’t recall the specific data, but the water kept on the counter maintained a detectable chlorine residual for at least a week, and the water that was kept in the fridge still had chlorine after 45 days and we finally quit taking measurements.

I’ll try and dig up the data before the weekend and present it here.

5 ppm is a little on the high side. IIRC, swimming pools try to maintain 2.5-3.0 ppm, and 1.0 ppm is the standard target for my utility. The EPA doesn’t really specify how much chlorine municipal water must have, but it does require that there be a detectable disinfectant residual at all points in the water distribution system.

When buying bottled water, one clue is to look on the bottle for ozonation as part of the treatment process. It is gaining popularity as a disinfectant alternative. As far as how to measure it, check out this little beauty from Hach. They cost a little over $100 - not cheap, but they are very accurate and can take a beating. We use them in the field and in the lab. Results are ready in 30 seconds.

One of the ladies in the lab ran some tests on water from her Brita, but I wasn’t paying attention when she was sharing the results. I seem to remember the chlorine level was reduced by about 50 or 80%. I’ll ask her and report back.

Ah, the wonderful world of self-diagnosis.

DT, go see a doctor. Tell 'm what’s up (or down, as the case may be). Voice your suspicions. There are many things that can cause a bowel problems in water-- and chances are it’s not chlorine.

Did you account for chlorine (Cl-) vs. chlorine (Cl2)? If you measured total chlorine, then you would see little difference over time. But you should have seen a change in the free chlorine residual over a few days. I too conducted chlorine residual tests back in grad school. I’d have to dig up my data, but IIRC, “free chlorine” (Cl2) was mostly gone within few days.

Chlorine as a dinsinfectant (Cl2) is a highly reactive compound (it should be if it’s supposed to disinfect, right?). Not only does it disassociate*, but it also quickly binds up with any organic molecules (e.g., humic and fulvic acids) present in the water. Unfortunately, these are often unhealthy byproducts such as chloroform**. Anyway, as a disinfectant, “free chlorine” is the key (i.e., still hanging out as Cl2) and I think that is what you taste.

    • break down…not evaporate
      ** - ok, many of these byproducts are volatile and tend to evaporate

Looks like it’s time to teach some chlorine chemistry. I was really hoping it wouldn’t come to this because the vB coding is gonna be a real pain. But first I’ll present the data I dug up about the long lasting chlorine residual.

It turns out we ran measurements on five sets of water: capped in the refrigerator, open in the fridge, capped at room temp. in the light, open at room temp. in the light, and capped in a dark cupboard.

All five sets began with a Free Chlorine Residual of 0.72 mg/l (mg/l is the same as parts per million, ppm). Measurements were taken every day for the first two weeks, and every few days after that.

The jar that was left open at room temperature and in the light lost its chlorine the quickest. Between day 6 and 7 half (0.36ppm) of the residual remained, and it was undetected at day 14.

The next to go was the jar that was capped and kept at room temp. in the light. It was half depleted at day 7 and was finally undetected at day 26.

Then came the jar that was open and refrigerated. It was half depleted around day eleven and undetected at day 20.

Next was the jar that was capped and kept in the dark at room temp. It was half depleted at day nine, but made it all the way out to day 42 before finally being indetectable. Even at day 34 the residual was still above 0.1ppm.

And lastly, the water that was capped and kept in the dark refrigerator still had a 0.45ppm residual at 48 days. At that point it was pretty clear the chlorine was going to stick around for a good while yet.

Conclusions: having a lid prevents the residual from leaving the water, and light (specifically UV light) speeds up its degradation.
Now it’s time for school. Rather than address other posts point by point, it’ll go more smoothly if I just tell it like it is. I’ll still try and make it short.

Take it as fact that chlorine gas dissolves in water very easily. Chlorine gas exists as a dimer, i.e. two atoms of Cl connected. Cl[sub]2(g)[/sub] (g for gaseous). In water, it becomes Cl[sub]2(a)[/sub] (a for aqueous) but not for long. Water is plenty polar enough to split it into spearate ions, and chlorine splits unevenly into Cl[sup]+[/sup] and Cl[sup]-[/sup].

Cl[sup]-[/sup] is now an insignificant ion that doesn’t amount to much and is balanced out by other positive ions in solution, but his brother with a full positive charge is pretty reactive; so he snatches a nearby H[sub]2[/sub]O, boots off an H[sup]+[/sup] and hooks up with the remaining OH[sup]-[/sup] and becomes HOCl, which is known as hypochlorous acid. (Note here that H[sup]+[/sup] is acid and HO[sup]-[/sup] is a base. The reaction created one of each, but tied up the base…so our solution just got more acidic. pH is important a little later.)

Hypochlorous acid is the main player in the disinfection game. He is very good at disabling bacteria. But HOCl can only exist as such in a certain pH range, spanning from pH of less than one up to pH 7.5. If the solution gets less acidic and the pH approaches 7.5, HOCl will begin to shed his H[sup]+[/sup] and exist as OCl[sup]-[/sup], known as Hypochlorite ion. (Incidentially, this anion is the negative half of Sodium Hypochlorite and Calcium Hypochlorite (HTH), which are other disinfectants.) The trouble is, hypochlorite ion is 80 to 100 times less effective of a disinfectant. So what we learn here is the importance of maintaining control of pH. Otherwise we’d have to use 100x as much chlorine gas to get the same level of disinfection.

Big deal, huh? Well, yeah. It would be all too easy to maintain a nice low pH in the water treatment process to insure all the Cl[sub]2[/sub] gas we added gave us the maximum bang for the buck in the form of HOCl. In addition to the Chlorine + water reaction producing H+, other chemicals used in conventional water treatment create more H+ ions driving the pH down even further. The problem is twofold: customers don’t like water that burns their throat; and even if they did, the pipes that carry the water still hate it. Acidic water is very corrosive to pipes, and in just a few short years, the whole distribution infrastructure would be a leaky mess. So treatment plants try to make the water non corrosive (and even slightly scaly, to build a protective coating inside the pipes) by keeping the pH a little above 7.0. So a pH range of 7.0-7.5 doesn’t leave a whole lot of room for errors in the treatment process, especially since the quality of the source water can change quite rapidly.

So much for being brief. I’m like that when no one is in the room to stop me. Or flee.

I forgot to mention the Total vs. Free chlorine thing.

In the business, Free Chlorine is defined as the amount of HOCl and OCL[sup]-[/sup] present in the water; and Total Chlorine measures those plus Chloramines. (I don’t believe Cl[sub]2[/sub] is accounted for in either one, simply because it reacts so fast with water and becomes HOCL.)

Chloramines are what you get when chlorine reacts with ammonia. They too have some disinfecting properties. In drinking water, chloramines are only present in trace amounts, (sub-ppm) if at all. They are known as disinfection by-products and are undesireable in drinking water.

Also, they are the primary source of the swimming pool smell. Just don’t ask where the ammonia came from to produce the chloramines at the pool.

Sodium thiosulfate reacts with water chlorine (hypochlorite) to produce sodium sulfite and a chloride.They do add potassium metabisulfite to jucies and it doesn’t do that much but still it’s not advisable.

honkytonkwillie - - thanks for the clarification, it’s been several years since I did any serious water chemistry.

Deacons Trucked - - I’m not sure if these answers are helping you. If you really want to know what’s in your water, call your Municipal Water Treatment Facility and ask what kind of chlorine residual is expected at your end of the distribution system. They’ll probably be happy to explain. Who knows, maybe you could even provide samples of your tap water for their distribution system monitoring program. If you want to avoid chlorine altogether, drink “spring” water (not just “bottled” water which may just be filtered tap water). I also agree with the previous post about getting a doctor’s opinion on your condition. It sounds unusual for such chlorine sensitivity.

Please ignore my statement about chloramine concentrations in drinking water. I was thinking of Trihalomethanes, another disinfection by-product that is soon to be regulated by the EPA.

Ummmm…thanx again. Sorry honkytonkwillie, but the chemistry lesson didnt do much to help me to know what I should do. I am now so bombarded with so many different solutions, I dunno what the hell to do.

BTW, after doctors throughout my life saying “No need to worry about that” when I would ask them about one of my many weird physical anomalies, I dont put too much faith in them. But I do want to talk a doc about this.