So I was looking up how to clean a dryer of lint online (since there’s quite a bit of it visible in mine, and it’s hard to get to, when I saw this:
Emphasis mine.
Is it really? The “absolute” sort of struck me as panic mongering.
Either way, what’s the best way to go about doing the common tips, like cleaning out the vent hose/line? I’m not very strong, so moving the dryer isn’t something I can do easily. I do, however, rent an apartment; is this something I should get the maintenance guys to do? Are those vacuum cleaner attachment things worth the money, or are they pretty useless?
And for the future, given that I’m considering moving to a condo or something once I get myself converted to full time, what’s a good way to answer the above when I’m in that situation?
Dryer lint is the preferred tinder for Boy Scouts to use when starting a fire with a flint striker or bow. They will carry it in a waterproof baggie for starting fires. It’s extraordinary flammable if a spark gets on it or if excessive heat is applied.
I’ve seen a lot of home advice shows recommend cleaning out your dryer vent and duct every year or two to prevent lint fires. It’s pretty simple just to disconnect the duct on the dryer and clear out any residual lint and dust with a shop vac. I’m not sure if it’s necessary for everybody, but our dryer filter seems to be fairly incompetent at catching lint so we figure cleaning the duct once in a while is worth the trouble.
Ah, right: one of the reasons I started this thread in the first place was because it seems like there’s quite a bit of lint in my dryer: clinging around the edges of the door, in the channel under the filter, etc (although the former means it’s not in the ducts or anything). Plus, my washroom space is really limited, which adds to the difficulties mentioned in my OP in moving it (which is why I asked about the vacuum attachments and whether it’d be appropriate for the maintenance guys).
Years ago, I moved in the first completed unit in a row of townhouses. When I moved in the construction crew was still finishing the the neighboring units. They advertised washer/dryer hook ups. I hooked up the washer, but there was no out for the lint.
“What should I do with the lint tube?”
“Ah, just put panty hose over it and clean it now and then.”
points to ad
“Okay, here you can borrow our hole saw bit and drill through the floor.”
“No, you can drill through the floor. I’m not botching that job. By the way, what’s under the floor; where’s the lint go?”
“Crawl space.”
Every unit, pumping tinder into the crawl space every week… Man, what a box of matches.
In the right conditions, I’m sure it works very well. The next time I go into the woods I’ll have either a Swedish steel or similar magnesium fire starting kit. My Scout troop had wax-dipped strike anywhere matches, but no dryer lint.
You can buy a cheap dryer lint cleaning kit online (or at your local appliance store), and I recommend it (had a dryer lint fire many years ago). The kit usually comes with a long, flat, flexible plastic tube that connects to your vacuum and is for cleaning out your dryer. It should also contain a round duct brush attached to a fairly long and stiff-but-flexible length of something resembling a speedometer cable, which is to force through your flex ducting. After all that is done, I’d suggest wrapping some rags around your vacuum hose end, stuff it into the duct, and try to suck out any leftover loose lint; or, if your vacuum allows it, shove the hose into the vent as far as possible to clean up the debris.
While we’re on the subject of laundry equipment, it’s also a good idea to change out your washer hoses about every five years. Most hoses are under constant tap pressure, and can eventually rupture. When we moved our laundry room to a newly build addition to the house, I had them install electric valves. They don’t turn on until the washer is turned on, and shut off automatically when they sense the washer has stopped running. It also has a water sensor that sits in the catchment pan under the washer, in case a leak occurs during operation.
Appliance rollers. cost maybe $20-$25, then tip your maint guys $10 to lift the dryer onto them. After that, the dryer can just roll out; dryers aren’t that heavy & you can probably do it yourself.
& no, if you’ve ever had a chance to read P&C insurance reports, it is a common cause of house fires.