I’ve had quite a few good ones, but the most impressive encounter I’ve had I didn’t actually see:
While on a family holiday in Kenya as a teenager, we got a puncture in the Maasai Mara reserve. Now, my parents don’t believe in tours, so it was just me, them and my brother in the land rover, and we took a bit longer changing the tyre than expected, so we didn’t have quite enough time to leave the park and decided to go to a lodge.
When we got there, my parents discovered the price and declared that we were camping. The lodge did claim to have camping facilities, so we followed the directions and reached the five star camping ground, consisting of a clearing some distance away from the lodge, with a open topped water tank connected up to a basin, and a circle of stones that had evidently once been used for fires. We set up the three tents, mine and my brothers on one side of the fireplace, my parents on the other next to the land rover, made up a fire, and went to bed.
I was woken once in the dark by a crashing noise, thought ‘Are Mum and Dad still up? Why are they getting more firewood? Weird’, rolled over and went back to sleep.
The second time I was woken was around dawn by my frantic mother telling me there was an elephant, and get up NOW. Which I did, and blearily scrambled into the land rover (to listen to her trying to wake my brother up to responses of ‘yeah, we saw elephants yesterday, what’s the big deal, I’ll be up in a bit…’)
Turns out a big bull tusker had been wandering around the camp half the night, including between my and my brother’s tent, which meant he was less than a foot away through the canvas from my sleeping head. My parents had woken up, and had spend a sleepless night watching him, between them and us two, pulling down acacia scrub and ripping up grass and ever so carefully stepping over the guy ropes.
As it happens, my Dad used to work in a zoo which had elephants, and one of his friends had actually been killed by one, so hell yes they knew how bad this could be, but thought turning the car lights on or trying to make it move off could startle it into trampling one or both of us.
They watched it for a few hours, drifting silently in front of them, until it moved out of sight and they figured it was worth the risk of waking us, then we packed up as fast as we possibly could and just gibbered slightly for the rest of the day.
I never did see the elephant.