Computer People Needed: Motherboard Replacement Surgery

Factual Questions
1

well, that’s is what it is. two fridays ago, my computer decided not to have any more of life. when you turn it on, it beeps…then beeps again…then beeps again…and does so until you turn it back off. nothing comes up on the screen, nothing boots up.

i assume (and i’ve been told) that this points to the motherboard being the problem.

problem number 1: how do i get it out? i don’t necessarily want to take it somewhere to have it done (poor college student and all).

problem number 2: what do i get in its place/what’s compatible? to know what to put in, it’d be good to know what’s in it now. i think it had a 2ghz processor, but i don’t exactly recall. i assume there’d be a mark on the motherboard saying what it’s capable of. after getting it out, what do i put in its stead? what’s good? the price range is 175 bucks plus or minus 50 (i’d like to go faster, if i could).

problem number 3: how in the hell do i get all the wires out and get em all back in? i’m not a computer guy, but i’d like to think i can get this done with some coaching.
this is (at least now) going to play out like an emergency landing via a civilian pilot.

should i even attempt it? should i bite the bullet and pay to have it done?

2

I was reading your post getting more and more of an OMG look on my face, hoping I’d get to the part when you asked if you should have it done. The answer, you should probably have it done. :wink: A few comments though:

First, regarding the problem - yeah, it does sound like the motherboard, but beeps like that can also indicate issues with specific compulsory hardware like the video card, memory, or processor that the system can’t boot up without (as opposed to say a hard drive or CD-ROM failure that would allow at least a limited boot up). Do the beeps have a pattern? Three beeps and a pause? Two beeps and a pause? Etc?

See if you can figure out what kind of motherboard you have, and look it up to see what the beeps could indicate. You can usually find a model number for the motherboard between two of the PCI (expansion) slots. If all else fails, just Google whatever number you can find. :stuck_out_tongue:

One other troubleshooting thing to try. Do you know what RAM looks like? It’ll be one or more chips about an inch tall by maybe six inches long installed vertically somewhere on the board. If you only have one chip - nevermind, there’s nothing you can do to test it. However, if there are two or more chips in there, try removing all but one chip, and see if the system will boot up. You can find out how to remove the RAM from the motherboard manual you hopefully found in your earlier googling. :wink:

If that doesn’t work, swap chips and try again. You may get lucky and just have a bad chip, which that procedure would help you discern. If more than one chip doesn’t give you any better results, you can rule that out as a problem.

Regarding taking the whole motherboard out - it’s not rocket science, but it’s certainly not easy. If you’re technically inclined though you may have a shot. Basically you have to remove four things:

  • Any expansion cards (like video cards, sound cards, etc)
  • The power cable from the power supply
  • The array of tiny cables that connect to the motherboard that control the power switch, led lights, and etc.
  • Sometimes there will be a small power cable from the power supply for a fan.

If you take meticulous notes (and have the manual handy), I’d think you’d be able to take it out and replace it if you’re mechanically inclined.

Regarding the new motherboard - the mobo doesn’t have anything to do with the speed of your computer (well, technically it does, but likely not in this situation), so any upgrade is likely just going to get you back on your feet. If you’re determined to do this yourself, I’d recommend taking the old motherboard with the RAM and CPU (processor) still attached into a computer store and let the salespeople take a look. They can (hopefully) tell you the type of motherboard you’d need to pick up.

From there, it’s just reading the instructions and hooking it up. Like I mentioned above, there are just those four things to connect to the motherboard, the hardest of which being the little connectors for the power/reset switches, lights, and all. If you do get a new motherboard you’ll need to consult the manual instead of your notes as it’ll likely be laid out differently.

However, if you get it all hooked up and see the wonderful Windows screen appear, the fun still isn’t over. As far as windows is concerned, you’ve just replaced a lot of hardware in one fell swoop, and it’s going to install it all. You’ll see the “found new hardware” screen repeatedly find new stuff on the motherboard and try to install it. It’s very likely that Windows will be very unstable at this point.

There are ways to change the motherboard without reinstalling Windows, but I’ve never attempted it myself. Here’s an article that details it pretty well though:

http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=1755

That actually walks through some hardware stuff as well.

Good luck man, I know it sucks being without a computer. That’s why I have a few extras laying around. :smiley:

3

Don’t fret – replacing a motherboard really isn’t all that difficult (the wonders of modular technology, doncha know), so long as you’re minimally technically competent. If you’re not – then you shouldn’t even consider it. At any rate, there are tons of how-to pages around if you google on “replace motherboard”. These two look like they’ll be helpful – it sounds like you need pictures for reference.

To get you started, you first need to open your case. Without some indication of the case, I can’t be much help. Most likely there are 2-4 screws on the back that you need to unscrew. Also most likely, you either have a single piece of bent metal that forms an upside down “U” to house the system or two separate side panels. If a “U”, you pull the entire piece back about 1/4 inch then lift it up. If separate panels, you pull one side back about 1/4 inch then away to the side.

You NEED to know what you have to make sure anything else you get is compatible. I’d suggest you get a pen and paper to write down what you discover, and possibly a magnifying glass to help you see what other hardware is inside. The most important parts you need specs on are your CPU (brand, speed, and slot/socket type), memory (number of pins on a module, number of modules), AGP or PCI video card, and power connector (ATX or that other, old one). Google on the terms I’ve used here, and that should be more than enough to get you started.

It shouldn’t really be a problem, although it can be intimidating if you’ve never done it. Most connectors only fit one way, and unless you have a really packed case they should all fit fairly easily. Be prepared to spend at least a day or two – just for the learning curve.

One final thing – make sure the power supply is OFF and UNPLUGGED, and also that you take necessary precautions against STATIC shocks.

4

Seconded, also under the circumstances if you have a friend who can print them out for you take pictures of what everything looked like from a few angles for reference. If you can photobucket them, us pc reparin’ dopers can prolly help ID any components you are having problems with and or help guide you through sticky spots.

Depending on your area it may be very much worth your while to pay to have it done. Call around in the phone book and ask for some phone estimates on replacing a mobo. Decent onsite techs will also carry stuff like external drives and may be able to save all of your files if not make a full backup of the drive. A new startup PC repair outfit might charge you as little as $25 an hour and they will be responsible for it if any smoke gets out. As a student you might have a more than a few PC savvy students around who would do it for a decent meal, YMMV.

Just so you know for reference, if you called me up and asked for an estimate $135 plus cost of mobo. I probably would use a compatible but not the identical board unless easily available and would insist on a reinstall of OS.

Don’t forget to check you power supply too. Its not horribly uncommon for bad supplies to wreck a board.

5

gr…as i was typing out a reply, my job-issued-laptop crashed because of some faulty mouse driver (i presume from the guy who molested this laptop before i did).

blue screen and everything, except it went away too fast for me to write down what it said.
anywhoot, i’ve poked around the inside of a computer before. i’ve installed ram and have installed my graphics card.
as far as i can figure, it’s pretty much taking stuff out and replacing the motherboard, then putting the crap back in the same (or comparable) places. obviously, things can be googled if need be.

ick…$135 plus the cost of the motherboard is too much for this poor college student (anxiously awaiting his income tax refund check).

the case is a two-panel type. not the giant “u” shaped tent that slides over the computer.

i think i may start taking stuff out of it…just…unplugging things from the motherboard and having them off to the side (i’ve got a spare dresser drawer). as it’s been mentioned, motherboards come with a manual, right? so all you’ve gotta do is plug the stuff back into the proper spaces, no?

i assume it’s more complicated than that.

i’ve never poked around with usb ports before. there are two in front (in a little trap door right next to a speaker input) and two in back. is there anything complicated with that?

6

my computer guy next door is now saying it could be the hard drive.

the computer, when turned on beeps, sits for a couple seconds, beeps, and does the same thing over and over until you turn it off

guidance?

7

I recommend prayer.

[sub]Hey, this is Great Debates![/sub]

8

i don’t buy stock in prayer. i’d rather meditate, or ruminate over a big pizza…or something.

but i DO appreciate the concern for my soul…really, i do.

9

Well, that we can fix.

Heading for General Questions.

10

I’d be very surprised if it’s the hard drive. When a hard drive crashes, the system will still POST, which is the process you see for the first few seconds after you turn on your computer. If the hard drive was dead, it would fire up then say something about either the drive or the operating system being missing.

If you want to be sure unplug the HDD and start 'er up. It’s very likely you’ll get the same thing.

And why is this in GD anyway? :confused: Since it is I’ll disagree with the above posters and argue that static electricity may be your best chance at reviving this board. You’ll need a baloon and your best pair of socks…

11

Like Slacker said, it’s probably not the hard drive. In fact, I’ll bet you a shiny nickel that it’s the RAM. Maybe the video card, but my money’s on the RAM.

Try taking out the RAM, blowing out the RAM slot and the RAM with a can of air (or you can just blow on it if you don’t have one; to be honest, it’s probably not dust), and sticking the RAM back in - make sure you keep track of the RAM’s orientation when you take it out. (You’ll be able to see easy enough by lining up the notch in the RAM and the corresponding notch in the slot, but it’s easier to just keep track from the get-go.)

If that doesn’t work, try doing more or less the same thing with your video card.

One thing I need to ask. What kind of computer is this? If it’s a Dell, HP/Compaq, or Gateway (I think), there’s a very good chance that any combination of the case, power supply, or motherboard are custom-made, and just dropping in a new motherboard will be problematic at best.

Also, let us know how old your computer is and, if you know it, what kind of processor you have. Older processors required a scary amount of force to mount the CPU heat sink (which you’ll need to do with a new mobo), and this can be unnerving to say the least (not to mention you could crack the CPU). FWIW, newer CPUs and their corresponding heat sinks are cake to install.

12

OK, it’s good that you have some experience with the computer’s innards. There’s not much more to it outside of “taking stuff out and replacing the motherboard” beyond checking compatibility.

Again, once you’ve confirmed compatibility, no, it’s not too much more complicated than that.

Generally speaking, it’s just a matter of figuring out where the connectors are attached. Some motherboards have multiple places to connect (i.e., one spot for USB0 and USB1, another for USB2 and USB3); on the other hand, extra USB ports may be on an extra PCI card.

If you’re gonna do this, you might just want to actually replace your MB, not upgrade it (that is, same make and model). If it’s a not too new, a replacement should be relatively cheap, with the advantage of not having to worry about compatibility AND you have an example of how things are hooked up (you did get pictures, or at least make a little sketch, right?). Oh, and Gozu has a point – certain manufacturers don’t make their computers very easy to upgrade.

13

Ok, i’m too lazy and tired to read this thread.

The golden rule of building PC’s.

If it doesn’t fit, it doesn’t go there.*

*some jumpers may fit in various places they don’t go, but you’ll likely never have to touch them.
However theres this annoying set of case-wires that need to be plugged in. Your new motherboard should have a manual detailing where each one goes. Don’t worry, even plugging them in random won’t hurt anything.

and to all a good night.

14

yeah, it’s a custom made computer. it’s roughly a year and a half old.

what do you mean about the processor? make and model? speed of processor?
i believe it was a 2ghz one…is there a marking on the motherboard that would confirm this?

i shall borrow the ram stick from my neighbor’s computer (his is down too) and see it it’s not that.
details after class…

15

Custom made computer is good, as that means it will use a standard motherboard. If you get a motherboard with the same sort of chipset, you should be able to swap it in without Windows throwing a hissy fit.

You are going to have to remove the heatsink/fan from the CPU, so you can tell us the exact type - 2ghz isn’t helpful, as there are 4 different socket types (Socket A, Socket 754, Socket 423, Socket 478) that would be likely for a board of this age.

16

The processor make, model, and speed wouldn’t be shown on the motherboard as motherboards can take a variety of processors, at least of model and speed. Finding out what motherboard it is should tell you what make of processor it is (most likely either AMD or Intel).

The model and speed could be obtained from the BIOS, but as you can’t get in there at the moment, that is not a lot of help really.

The model and speed will be on the processor itself, but that will mean taking off the processor cooling fan to read it. Unless you can get the information from the people who custom built the computer you are stuck with getting into the BIOS or looking at the processor itself.