Cuba – An objective history of the rule of Castro:

In My Humble Opinion
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I have read several books and articles on the recent history and the current situation in Cuba. I fully admit to being enthralled and interested in the chequered history of this country. Mostly these books I read talk of atrocities carried out under the previous Batista regime, but gloss over the more recent record of Castro in this regard. Many (non-historical) travelogue books even praise the situation in Cuba (albeit poor) in contrast to the mass homogenisation of other places around the world. In those books the people seem contented rather than oppressed.

What I am concerned about is that the books I have been reading are not giving the full picture of what life is really like in Cuba under Castro. A few posters on this board have easily and happily thrown Castro in alongside Saddam Hussein, Ceausescu, Suharto, Marcos etc… in terms of his human rights record and atrocities committed against the Cuban people. I have not seem much evidence of this side of Castro being documented in any of the books I have read to date.

Of course, I am quite open and willing to be educated on this. Can anyone recommend either a decent book or website offering a good (objective) historical insight into the reign of Castro and how it really stacks up with respect to other similar regimes?

I also hope to visit Cuba soon (before Castro expires) to see for myself how things are and make up my own mind. Can anyone who has visited Cuba maybe offer their opinion on the situation on the ground, and how the future of Cuba shapes up without Castro holding the reins?

Thanks.

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I was in Cuba early last year and it was a fantastic place to visit. For a tourist, there were very few restrictions on where you could visit, or who you could talk to. We travelled independently and didn’t hole ourselves up in an all-inclusive resort as many visitors do (not that there’s anything wrong with that). Cubans were very friendly and eager to communicate, although the offers of cheap cigars etc. often followed the conversation. The collapse of the Soviet Union and the resulting economic problems have led to some loosening of the Governments grip on economic activity - for example, privately run restaurants and guesthouses had sprung up and international hotel chains had moved in. Some elements of social life seem relatively free; drinking, dancing and music are everywhere. All accounts say that the standard of education and healthcare are excellent. Racial integration also seems to be greater than in almost anywhere I’ve visited.

On the other hand, there was no information about the outside world whatsoever. The only newspapers were Government controlled and contained pure propeganda. I ran out of books to read and could not even find an ordinary novel - there was nothing but party-approved history books and anti-US material. Cubans working in the burgeoning tourist sector would have access to international news on the satellite channels in hotels, however. The disparity between the dollar and peso economies has led to a situation where a tour guide (working for dollars) earns more than a doctor. This has obvious repercussions for society in general and particularly for the aspirations of young people. There is a heavy police and army presence in the larger cities but it doesn’t feel intimidating (for a tourist, it may have the opposite effect). The police and army are such large employers that nearly every family has someone serving and the forces integrate fairly well with the broader populus on a day to day basis. Of course, I am just talking about how the place feels - there is a complete prohibition on political dissent and protest and I imagine that these jovial policemen have another side entirely. It was also obvious that most of the population were extremely poor, albeit not grindingly so due to the range of social supports.

A tourist (I don’t like that wanky habit people have of exalting themselves to the status of “traveller”) can only scratch the surface and much has changed since I was there, particularly in terms of increased repression while the world’s attention was elsewhere. It’s hard not to like Cuba but you can become beguiled by the rum, sunshine and music. Cuba has a lot of problems but I admire their early determination to avoid domination and economic subjugation by the US. Much has gone wrong since but hopefully a phased post-Castro changeover to democracy and economic liberalisation, while retaining the will to decide their own destiny and provide reasonable state supports, will take place.

At the moment, ending the ridiculous embargo and some constructive engagement by the US would help matters.

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Oh, and I have a copy of the Lonely Planet guide you can borrow.

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Thanks for the offer. I have the Rough Guide already which covers quite a bit.

How did you get there when you went (which airline)? Any dilemmas with moving around?
What about language problems (do you speak Spanish, or need to?)
Was changing money/travellers cheques or using a credit card ever an issue?

Great synopsis of your time, BTW. Thanks.

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It is almost impossible to obtain objective information on Cuba. The Cuban government mostly just mass produces propaganda so that it’s impossible to tell what’s true, what’s a complete lie, or what’s blown out of proportion, whereas the rest of the world is divided between those who back the USA’s belligerant and paranoid attitude (a group which consists pretty much only of the USA, and probably the UK as always), and those who back plucky little Cuba, overlooking some of Fidel’s more unsavoury aspects in the process.

I’d suggest that you ask Bayonet1976, who really seems to know his stuff. He is not however, strictly speaking objective.

And he will probably tear me to shreds now.

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We went with Aeroflot direct from Shannon. We booked it through Cubatravel in Dublin with the first couple of nights accommodation in Havana.

No problems moving around - you can buy bus tickets all over the place. We didn’t hire a car but, if you do, you have to be careful where you leave it. The embargo means that spare parts are scarce so you might find wing mirrors, aerials etc. missing when you return.

I have no Spanish, which is definitely a drawback but many Cubans speak English.

I can’t remember for the life of me what we did about money. We used cash and I brought quite a bit but I can’t remember whether I used ATMs or my credit card. By the way, it’s US dollars all the way - it’s only on a rare occasion such as a baseball match that a tourist gets the opportunity to spend pesos - $10 worth would be plenty for your whole stay. Things are pretty cheap so your dollars will stretch a bit. Try to stay with locals in rented rooms as much as you can. It’s cheap and the families are usually really helpful and eager to talk - they are as curious about you as you are about them. The lack of info. is incredible - many won’t even have heard of Ireland, although some punter in a bar knew of Bobby Sands;). Unfortunately, you’re stuck with hotels in the bigger cities.

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Aro,

I was born and raised in Castro’s Cuba and was lucky enough to get out, which is why I am able to post here. I think manwithaplan’s description is dead on, as far a tourist’s view goes.

As for an objective history of Castro’s Cuba you’re not going to find it, that’s the nature of dictatorships, they are closed to the outside world, and those from within are unable to speak freely. Then once those who were in get out and speak freely they’re described as “biased”, so it goes. All that being said, Cuba is a beautiful place, and IMO of course, has the best people in the world. But don’t go there with the illusion that you’re going to see how things “really” are. You’ll be there as a tourist, with hard currency, and with the knowledge that you’ll be leaving soon. That makes all the difference. That’s not a knock on tourists, it’s just saying that visiting and living are two different things.

As for books, if you want some Cuban flavor in your writers, and I do, try Guillermo Cabrera Infante’s books. His “Mea Cuba” and “Three Trapped Tigers” will give you a political perspective of life inside the revolution. He’s very political though, so be warned.

On the other hand if you want the flavor and smells of Havana Zoe Valdes can’t be beat. Her “Yocandra in the Paradise of Nada: A Novel of Cuba” is excellent, as is “Dear First Love : A Novel”, in fact I just love all her books. But be warned, her writing is filled with sexuality and sensuality, but so are Cubans.

If you have specific questions about Cuba I’d be glad to answer them.

And Zorro , you’re description is right on the money too, so no tearing to shreds. Peace.

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Aro, if you don’t mind, I’ll steal Bayonet1976’s book suggestions. I like the sound of this Guillermo Cabrera Infante guy’s work. I’ll have to add him to the list.

Hey, Mr Bayonet, when did you leave Cuba? In 1976, or was that when you were born?

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Thanks for the reply, and the book suggestions, (already odered - the joys of the internet!)

I realise that no one ever sees the true face of a place they just pass through, no matter how observant or interactive. I meant see for my own eyes, rather than to rely on the observations of others.
Even then, I understand it will still be a superficial view I come away with. But it is always better to experience firsthand a little of the culture, however fleeting.

I do have several questions you could answer for me, if you will:

Do locals consider Castro as a 'benign dictator’ who is respected and liked, or is he feared and hated? Is the 'Evil persona at all justified, or is he a man trying to do what he feels is right?
I realise there will be a wide spread of opinion on this matter, but is there any general middle consensus?

Did the attempts on Castro’s life in the 60’s /70’s galvanise public opinion against the US, or were they secretly supported?

You count yourself “lucky to get out”. Do many/most Cubans wish to leave their island if they were given the choice?

Did you, personally, leave due to economic, political or social reasons? Or a mixture of all three?

Do you still have family in Cuba? Can you / do you visit them?

I would appreciate an answer to any or all of these. Please feel free to ignore any you wish to, as any answers at all will be greatly appreciated.
And if you have discussed this all before in other threads let me know and I’ll search for them rather than have you repeat yourself.

Thanks again.

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One further to add:

How widespread are Santeria ceremonies, and have you ever witnessed one? Are there many followers?

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1976 is the year I made it to the US, I left Cuba in 1974. And Cabrera Infante is exiled in London nowadays, so he’s local to you.

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Of all the places in the world to be an exile, why the hell did he choose London?

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Do locals consider Castro as a 'benign dictator’ who is respected and liked, or is he feared and hated? Is the 'Evil persona at all justified, or is he a man trying to do what he feels is right?
I realise there will be a wide spread of opinion on this matter, but is there any general middle consensus?

Like you say, opinions are all over the place. Cuba’s population is fairly young, so for most Castro is the only ruler they’ve ever known. Some of the older Cubans hold Castro almost as a deity, my own grandmother worshipped him, but yet she also travelled to the US to visit my mom. I think most of the younger Cubans look at Castro as something of an anachronism, but as a fixture nonetheless.

If you develop some sort of friendship while in Cuba you’ll see first hand that many people wish Castro would leave or die, since they understand that change in Cuba’s situation is impossible while he’s alive.

Did the attempts on Castro’s life in the 60’s /70’s galvanise public opinion against the US, or were they secretly supported?

This will surprise you, but the attempts on Castro’s life get absolutely no press or discussion in Cuba. I first heard about them in the US. So no, they play no role in perception about the US. In general the US, and foreigners in general are viewed very positively, with the possible exception of Russians which were despised even before the fall of the USSR.

If you spend any time in Cuba you’ll see this first hand.

**You count yourself “lucky to get out”. Do many/most Cubans wish to leave their island if they were given the choice? **

I don’t know about many or most, emigration is a tough choice. One of my cousins, a priest, has travelled outside Cuba extensively and has had the opportunity to remain abroad, but he has chosen to return every time. On the other hand, his two brothers, one a poet, the other a teacher left at the first opportunity. One in a raft, the other defected during a literary conference in NYC.

A gauge for this may be the number of people applying for the 20,000 yearly visas given by the US. IIRC the number is something like 500,000 per year, and while there are certain to be many duplicate applications there, it’s still a significant number.

Did you, personally, leave due to economic, political or social reasons? Or a mixture of all three?

By the time I left Cuba I had been kicked out of Lenin school, the top school in the country, because of idelogical reasons. I had been admitted to the school because of my academic record, but I have a big mouth, and spoke up a number of times during assemblies dissenting with the marxist/soviet crap we discussed. My parents had been threatened because of my open dissent, and my father had spent time in a labor camp because he had declined membership in the communist party. This last because membership in the party required breaking of all contact with relatives abroad.

So we left mostly for political reasons, but economically we also wanted to do better, and there was no opportunity for that in Cuba back then. Somewhat more now.

Do you still have family in Cuba? Can you / do you visit them?

When we left Cuba exiles were not allowed to return. This changed in the late 70’s, and more so in the 90’s. My mother has travelled there a few times, my sister just returned last week. We left lots of family there, but as I mentioned above, many of them have left since then. I have not visited sine leaving, mostly because I can not travel there with a US passport, I must travel under a Cuban passport, and that worries me. My sister thinks I’m a whimp, but then again she never had to work in a labor camp.

How widespread are Santeria ceremonies, and have you ever witnessed one? Are there many followers?

It’s very popular. But very few people are exclusively santeros. Most follow catholicism and santeria, and this drives my cousin, the priest, crazy. It’s easy to see why though, every santeria saint’s image is that of a catholic saint, as in Saint Barbara=Chango, and so on. There are a number of santeria ceremonies, like initiations, celebrations, bembes (these last are the ones with all the conga drums), and I have been to a number of them. If you’re interested in this avoid the museums, just look for someone dressed all in white and engage them in conversation.

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I can’t recall exactly, he covers it in detail in “Mea Cuba”, but it had to do with England being the only European country which gave him political asylum.

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Many thanks for the answers, Bay.

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Wow bayonet 1976, you are a very interesting person. I grew up in Tampa Fl and even there I have found objective opinions about Cuba very few and ar between. THis was really interesting. Thanks!

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Thanks, and you’re welcome.

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Right, I’m out shopping for some Guillermo Cabrera Infante on Saturday, as it turns out that I don’t have Du contrat social by Rousseau after all. Jesus, and there I was thinking this was an educated household. Anyway, this means that Cabrera Infante moved into to poll position on my reading list. If I can’t find any of hos books in the Gloucester Road Bookshop, I’ll just look him up in the phone directory and ask him if he has any spare copies.

You scored a hit with that recommendation, Mr Bayonet.

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Cuba under Castro has been an economic disaster - Cuba had a big head start on other Latin American countries in economic development, education, and resources before Castro took over. Now the Cuban GDP per capital trails almost all other countries in the region. Despite being propped up by the Soviet Union for three decades.

And all you have to know about the political conditions there is that people risk their lives in rickety boats to try and escape the place. Castro just imprisoned a new round of dissidents, and Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch both say that torture and inhumane conditions are rampant in Cuban jails.

Internal exile is still common. People who are undesirable cannot get good educations or work above the table, so they are forced to live in beggars areas and make a living by selling small crafts, prostitution, black market exchange, crime, etc.

It is not a nice place.

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Sam, I certainly wouldn’t argue with you about suppression of dissent, inhumane treatment of prisoners and economic mismanagement. But I think any discussion of Cuba’s economic shortcomings is incomplete without mention of the effects of the embargo. The scope for economic development has been severely hampered by the embargo and poor GDP numbers are not solely due to misguided centralism. The embargo has failed to bring down the administration and has severe repercussions for Cuba’s citizens on a day to day basis.

Just to note that literacy rates increased rapidly following the revolution but the value of better education is much diminished in a country where opportunities are limited and, as evidenced by bayonet’s experience, free thought is discouraged.

You are right - in many ways it is not a nice place. I’d still recommend it to anyone for a holiday though;).

A question for you, bayonet. Is Castro a marxist in his heart of hearts or is he mostly motivated by nationalism? Was his conversion to communism just an opportunistic survival tactic to secure soviet support or does he believe in its core values?