Cutting Quarter Round

I built an apartment, and it turned out great, took me months, but I got it done. It was my first attempt at doing such a thing, so I took my time and did it right, very little in the way of “getting creative” and did everything “by the book”. The problem is, even though it looks great, I find myself unable to remember how I cut the Quarter Round attached to the wall base, inside corners are easy, but I remember I struggled with outside corners. Does anyone know of a easy to remember way to miter them properly? Something easy to remember akin to “lefty loosey, righty tighty” in respect to cutting inside and outside corners? I remember cutting inside corners when I meant to cut outside ones. Sorry in advance if the question seems convoluted.

P.S. Building this is the reason why I am so paranoid with OCD about it burning down, I’m pretty proud of it, it’s a pretty big accomplishment.

I feel your pain … what I do is take the piece and put it in place … or close to … and then quickly sketch on the wood what the corner should like like … repeat for the other side … then measure the inside distance …

Back at the bench I mark the cut lines with the square using the sketching to make sure it’s orientated proper like … measure out the inside and mark the cut lines on the other side … not being afraid to double check …

ETA: The sketching doesn’t have to be very heavy, just enough to see but not enough to be a hassle sanding off …

On an outside corner, the outside of the quarter round should be outsized, i.e., bigger.

Just made that up actually.

I do the same as Watchwolf. Just hold the piece the way it goes and draw a quick line. That way when you get over to the miter saw you won’t forget.

Dennis

I use a slash or backslash when writing my cut list to indicate the type of cut so:

\13/ would be a 13 inch piece with two inside 45s.

13\ would be a butt on the left and an outside on the right.

Or $50 buys a hand trim nipper, which is like a pair of shears with a single large blade. That and a cordless nailgun is the fastest way to install quarter round or other small profile trim.

“Think three times. Measure twice. Cut once”.

Like watchwolf49 and mixdenny, I draw a line on the piece while it is as close to in place as I can get it. I also deliberately cut the piece a little long the first time so that I can see exactly how much to cut for the final cut. Sorry, campp, I cut twice. :smiley:

I cope inside corners so all miters are for outside corners. But I still do as the others said and make a mark on the piece showing the angle of the cut for outside corners.

I make up models. One outside corner and mark the two parts A and B. One inside corner marked C and D.

When measuring I always cut a little long and shave off until I get the exact length. Also many corners are not exactly 90 degrees this also allows me to make small adjustments on angles.

I have put in a little 1/4 round. But I have put in a lot of crown molding which can be expensive to make mistakes. I also try to make the long cuts first.

Thanks Everyone!

I typically cut twice with stuff too as Crotalus said, a larger cut and then see what remainder needs to be cut off, but only if I am able to line it up. I coped a couple of them for the kitchenette but nothing feels as good as a perfect Miter cut, it’s oddly satisfying. For the future, I’ll just line them up and cut them, on the longer side if in doubt. Thanks again!

Bet me.

Even after decades of experience, this is one of those things I have to approach like a novice, and screw up a cut or two every freaking time.

:smack:

I may have a few pieces of every known molding, trim and baseboard produced in the past thirty years … just there thrown up on top of the wood shelves …

I’ve done quite a bit of interior and exterior trim.

Similar to that_darn_cat, but for not writing things down, but calling it out to a person running the saw or remembering it, for a 13 inch piece -

\13/ would be long to long.
/13/ would be short to long.
\13\ would be long to short.
|13\ would be flat to short.

and so on.

I take all my measurements and draw a diagram of the entire room or house, showing inside or outside angles. On 1/4 round I never cope. Outside corners I cut about 1/16" long and trim if needed.

I always think of trim two dimensionally for cutting and notation. For base, cove, chair rail and quarter round, I think of it as if I am looking down at the floor, with the back/ wall side of the trim facing ‘up’. I do all my measurements room by room notated as horizontal lines with vertical or angled lines on the ends corresponding to my mitre angles.

This ------\ would be a trim piece with an inside mitre on the left and an outside mitre on the right. Since most people cut with the back / wallside of the trim against the fence this is easy to visualize.

I rarely cut a true 45, usually 44 for inside miter and 46 for outside.

I tend to cut a little long and then shave to fit. Blessings and peace be upon good compound miter saws with sharp blades. :slight_smile:

Me too. Under cut the angle on each side so the pieces won’t quite meet and then take it down slowly until they just close. You need to use some glue on an outside corner, not just nails. I’ll put the mitersaw right down the floor next to me so I don’t have to keep getting up to re-cut. With the current state of my knees I don’t think I’ll be doing any more floor level molding anymore though.

Also, you don’t have to try to fit the molding in with just one piece. It’s easier to use shorter pieces that you can bring together to fit at the corner and then put a joint in the middle of the molding. Joints are easy and with a little glue and sanding become invisible if you paint.

Easy tip on the outside corners, if you have a good sharp and shiny chisel just use it as a mirror from the back (side with the sharp part) and turn it until the reflection is where you want the new piece to be and press down.

While you will only be able to make a mark for a cut on quarter round here is a video about purfling a guitar pick guard that shows how this works as it is hard to explain with just words.

Using light it is far easier than measuring but be careful if you use something like a mirror as the reflection may be on the back side which will destroy the accuracy.