Dangerously unacceptable materials were used in our "fix and flip" house - any recourse?

By all means, talk to a lawyer if you think it’s worth it. I’m not familiar with Colorado, but CA, where I live, the seller is required to disclose any known issues with the home-- doing a a bathroom remodel which includes plumbing changes without a permit would be one such issue. Not sure if you need a permit to add A/C to your house.

I have no idea what the problem was, I was not there to troubleshoot the issue. But if the electrician “whom you trust” is saying the unit needs 30A wire then your trust may be misplaced (or the information you provide is incorrect or incomplete).

Anyway, I just checked back in case you had a question. Good luck with your lawsuit.

Like Amateur Barbarian, I’d like to know what you are basing your wiring knowledge on. Wire must be sized for load, as must any overcurrent protective device, i.e. the circuit breaker. Local codes will supersede national codes, but only to the extent that they exceed them. I speak as a trained electrician with 30 years experience.

If you have a 30A AC unit on one end and a 30A breaker on the other, you can’t have 20A wiring in between.

If it were a 20A unit, the 20A wiring would need to be safely backed with a 20A breaker.

I can’t begin to imagine what else you might be suggesting here.

I want to mention that you also should ‘see’ what part the seller’s realtor played. S/he may be liable also. Here, in Los Angeles, it seems realtors tell you if an addition/rennovation is not to code, i.e. no permits. Then it is the buyer’s choice whether to continue with the purchase or not.

As far as I know ‘as is’ is on every contract and is superceded by legal issues all the time.

Kind of hard to sue for defects you haven’t discovered yet.

Not what I was suggesting. Just saying that I’d be reluctant to say anything like “well, it was less than $1000 total, so I’ll just eat it” for a while yet.

But in light of the relatively low damages, would small claims court be an option?

But you gotta admit… great post/username combo!

Touche’. I’ve just found the name humorous. Never thought much else about it.

AC is a dedicated circuit to a motor load. The wire is sized at 125% of FLA and the breaker is 175% of FLA, thus larger. It’s a bit more complicated than that but the point is the same.

Cheers

I’m confused as hell. You first said a 30A load requires a 30A breaker. Now you say a 30A load requires a breaker rated at 175% of the load. Where I went to school 30 is not also 175% of 30.

I doubt it. Just because you win in small claims doesnt mean the person has to pay. It isnt like it is on tv.

Of course they have to pay. It doesn’t mean that they WILL pay.

Waiting on the NEC cite, here. Since you’re such an expert, it should be right at hand, right?

I mean, I’ve only been doing remodeling and extension construction for about 35 years, so I’ve never reached a level where I needed to memorize it.

Fair. But I’ll let someone else do the typing. There are many explanations but this one is pretty clear and lists all the relative code rules and tables. I don’t know about “expert” but it is what I do for a living. I work with the CEC normally (at hand) but I’ve had to cross over to the NEC (at the office) many times and the methodology is virtually the same for motor circuits. Other sections, not so much :).

http://www.ecmag.com/section/codes-standards/overcurrent-protection-motor-installations-part-one

What we don’t have is the full lload amps (FLA), or full load current (FLC) if you prefer, for this actual application so consider the methodology. 125% of FLA for wire and 175% of FLA for breaker (or fuse) means they will not be 30A breaker/30A wire/30A unit. If the 30A breaker is correct, than the unit is much smaller than 30A. If the unit is actually 30A then the breaker would be much bigger.

Motor circuits don’t come up in residential much but are a matter of course in commercial and industrial applications. And there is nothing wrong with using the larger wire but it would be cost prohibitive in larger scale.

The OP wanted to gain recourse, and I suggested he check his facts before an erroneous (and possibly litigous?) claim was made. In the stated case, 20A wire is not necessarily wrong. For an example, my own AC unit is 15.7 FLA, 19.675 motor circuit amps (#12 AWG-20A wire) and a 27.475 breaker (nearest 30A). The two similar sized units I looked at from Trane are the same.

Just trying to help out, and I should know better. I’m done.

Once again, unnecessary snark has scared someone off:(.

Don’t know if Inferior Desecrator will be back, but I’m still following this thread to see Chefguy and Amateur Barbarian’s responses to this cite (that seems to support what he was saying) will be responded to with an appropriate amount of respect. I don’t know who’s right, but ID seems to me to be making the best case so far.

BTW, I am also a contractor, but I sub out my electrical work so I won’t pretend to be an expert.

One more question. What the hell is 20 amp wire? Wire is sold by gauge. The size wire needed for a given load varies with the length of the run. A 70 foot run will require a smaller gauge (larger diameter) wire than a 10 foot run at any given load.
I am no expert in AC wiring but even I can tell that ID seems to be pulling shit right out of his ass.
And still 30A is not 175% of 30A.